R-D1s and Flash

M

M4streetshooter

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This post spawned from my other post about my (1st $$$ shoot).

Anyway, I used a 283 to do the shoot and have to admit that I didn't have a problem at all...it's posted in the other thread that this flash is HIGH voltage and should not be used with the camera....ok,
which flash can you use, do YOU use or suggest to use?

I'm definately a streetshooter...but I would never turn down a good paying gig, thats where the flash is needed...., ...any suggestions definately appreciated and by many other members too....don
 
Don,
I only suggested in the other thread that the 283 may be High Voltage, as mine and most although not all are. If you haven't damaged the R-D1 so far and you like this gun (as I do) its unlikely that repeated use will cause damage. Why not just find a volt meter and measure your unit or use the Wein Safe Sync?

As an alternative my recommendation of the smaller Metz 34 CS-2 stands.
Jim
 
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Yes it would be useful to know what the voltage (measured at the shoe when flash is fully charged) is on your 283. I have a couple of 285s and an older Vivitar 2500 that all measure around 12 volts. Someone on RFF said that they had contacted Epson about this but could not get a number, just to avoid "high voltage" flashes. Does that mean anything over 6 volts or 600?
 
Someone posted a link before to common flash voltages, mine (sunpak 422d) came up as borderline and I've been using it with a sync cord with no problems so far.
Not sure how the 283 is setup, but if you can switch to a cold shoe with sync cord, that might be the simplest solution as TTL flash is not available for the rd-1 anyway.
 
I saw a post elsewhere that the made in China and Korea units are low voltage and the made in Japan are high voltage. I have no idea whether this is accurate or not. If you measure across the shoe contacts and it is over 25 volts I wouldn't use it and risk an internal arc that might damage the camera. If it uses an SCR as a switch to fire the unit, those have voltage ratings and the voltage ratings schould not be exceeded.
 
Excerp of Kevin Bjorke's Strobe Trigger Voltages
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

QUOTE
Vivitar 283:
Older units have been reported as high as 600V!
Recent (post-'87) revised 283's ("Made in China") are safer with modern cameras, running around 9-10V. Bob Atkins reports some as low as 5V. Recently units marked "Made in Korea" have also appeared... measured at 8v by Andrew Cassino and Tony Bonanno.
Kevin Omura used a Quantum battery and got a hefty 261.4V out of his (sn3012330), while
Göran Samuelsson had two units with different voltages: 230V and 190V. Other reports have had similar variety, up to 270V.
UNQUOTE
 
Are these flash trigger voltages applicable only to hotshoe use? Or do PC sockets suffer similar issues? My 283 doesn't have a functional hotshoe anymore, but I've had great fun with it on my Polaroid 600SE!
 
Robin Harrison said:
Are these flash trigger voltages applicable only to hotshoe use? Or do PC sockets suffer similar issues? My 283 doesn't have a functional hotshoe anymore, but I've had great fun with it on my Polaroid 600SE!
Click to expand...

Yes it applies to both. I measured my 283's both at the Hot Shoe and at the end of a PC cord.

Most of the above information on voltages has already been covered in posts to M4Streetshooter's (Don's) "1st $$$ shoot" thread: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35679

It was just getting a bit OT there. I think he is now really looking for suggestions of alternative flash guns.
 
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Chaser said:
You could always just use a Wein Safe Sync and not worry about votage anymore.
Click to expand...

That's very true. I'm just trying to cut down on the amount of crap on top of the camera.
 
You guys are right...it's about minimalism.....that's why RF's in the first place....

ok, how fo I measure the voltage at the shoe.....I have a few multimeters....

that'll be the first step......thanks all....don
 
As well as vivitar 283s with safe sync, I have also consistently used a vivitar2500 WITHOUT safe sync on both my RD 1 bodies without apparent problem.
Basically its a smaller less powerful 285 [only 2AA] very neat, probably USD 25 on ebay..........................
Clive
 
I've been using a Sunpak 383 Super with a Canon Powershot G1 for the past six years, with no problems.

I'm an old Vivitar 283 lover, but switched to Sunpak because they have swivel was well as tilt, allowing you to do vertical bounce or even to bounce off a wall behind you.
 
I recall back in the day...I ordered another 283 and they sent me a 383 Sunpack....well, I figured at the time it sold for more but anyway...if I remember correctly, it was a good flash but didn't recycle as fast as the 283......

I sold that years ago but that could be a very viable option.....how does it do on a real shoot? My PR stuff is usually indoors and always requires flash.....

for the past year and a half or so, I used a 5D and that 580 flash....it worked awesome but I hate those cameras that won't let you see at

The Decisive Moment...............

I have to do something fast as I have another shoot inside the Museum next week.........

you guys are the experts.....tell me.......
 
Vivitar 285HV's, only $99- brand new at MPEX.com and guaranteed to be 6V or less at the hotshoe or pc cord.

You can also read the Strobist.com page for the story on the 285HV being back in production, and also how to tell for sure which 283's are safe.
 
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