mjm6
Established
Hello folks,
I recently got a Canon RF running, and went on the hunt for a 50mm f1.4 lens. Well, I happened onto an auction that included a Nikkor 5cm f1.4 and also a Canon 100mm f3.5 (and a Leica IIIF RD, too...). It turns out that everthing I got needs a bit of work, and I need a bit of advice on what to do with each item.
The Nikkor has visible oil on the aperture blades. It otherwise seems fine, no major marks or otherwise. I need to find a suitable lenscap for it, anyone know what size it is, or any sources for a decent cap? I know that on auto-aperture cameras having oil on the blades can be very bad, but on a meterless manual aperture camera like this is it something I should have cleaned immediately, or should it wait until the lens needs work for another reason?
The Canon 100mm f3.5 has at least one element inside that has serious clouding and possibly some fungus. This is not an expensive lens, so I'm wondering whether it is worth having it repaired or even looked at, as they don't have a high value. It is in perfect condition otherwise, so if a CLA is not too expensive, and if it is possible to have a CLA be successful, then it would be a good lens to use, so I'm interested in having it done. Suggestions on an inexpensive place for this type of work? I'll try to include a photo of the inside.
The Leica has a sticky shutter and the rangefinder is cloudy and the second image appears very dim. I was originally thinking that I would just put the body back on Ebay, but it is in very nice cosmetic condition, and I've already grown somewhat attached to it... Any recommendations for a good place to get it working again? I have a friend who has used CRR Luton in England for some IIIF work, and he highly recommended it. He also had them repaint the metal body parts black, and he said it came back looking like a brand new camera. Anyone have this done and can comment?
Thanks,
---Michael (who is completely hooked on RF cameras for 35mm)
I recently got a Canon RF running, and went on the hunt for a 50mm f1.4 lens. Well, I happened onto an auction that included a Nikkor 5cm f1.4 and also a Canon 100mm f3.5 (and a Leica IIIF RD, too...). It turns out that everthing I got needs a bit of work, and I need a bit of advice on what to do with each item.
The Nikkor has visible oil on the aperture blades. It otherwise seems fine, no major marks or otherwise. I need to find a suitable lenscap for it, anyone know what size it is, or any sources for a decent cap? I know that on auto-aperture cameras having oil on the blades can be very bad, but on a meterless manual aperture camera like this is it something I should have cleaned immediately, or should it wait until the lens needs work for another reason?
The Canon 100mm f3.5 has at least one element inside that has serious clouding and possibly some fungus. This is not an expensive lens, so I'm wondering whether it is worth having it repaired or even looked at, as they don't have a high value. It is in perfect condition otherwise, so if a CLA is not too expensive, and if it is possible to have a CLA be successful, then it would be a good lens to use, so I'm interested in having it done. Suggestions on an inexpensive place for this type of work? I'll try to include a photo of the inside.
The Leica has a sticky shutter and the rangefinder is cloudy and the second image appears very dim. I was originally thinking that I would just put the body back on Ebay, but it is in very nice cosmetic condition, and I've already grown somewhat attached to it... Any recommendations for a good place to get it working again? I have a friend who has used CRR Luton in England for some IIIF work, and he highly recommended it. He also had them repaint the metal body parts black, and he said it came back looking like a brand new camera. Anyone have this done and can comment?
Thanks,
---Michael (who is completely hooked on RF cameras for 35mm)
Chaser
Well-known
The Canon is a great lens and if it doesn't break the bank it is worth fixing. As for the nikon i have heard that these are pretty legendary and it would probably worth getting it up to speck as well.
back alley
IMAGES
the 100/3.5 unscrews into 2 parts.
maybe you can reach the cloudy surface on your own.
joe
maybe you can reach the cloudy surface on your own.
joe
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I don't know who to suggest for the lens check... but for the camera, try Sherry Krauter.
Sherry Krauter (USA)
http://www.sherrykrauter.com
GOLDEN TOUCH QUALITY CAMERA REPAIR
118 Purgatory Road
Campbell Hall, New York 10916
tel: 1-845-496-8834
repair@sherrykrauter.com
sales@sherrykrauter.com
Sherry also cleans and repairs lenses and has elements for some LTM stuff - Call to check.
Sherry Krauter (USA)
http://www.sherrykrauter.com
GOLDEN TOUCH QUALITY CAMERA REPAIR
118 Purgatory Road
Campbell Hall, New York 10916
tel: 1-845-496-8834
repair@sherrykrauter.com
sales@sherrykrauter.com
Sherry also cleans and repairs lenses and has elements for some LTM stuff - Call to check.
DAG is another good option for repairs.
http://www.dagcamera.com/
That 100 looks pretty bad, I am sure nobody will offer a guarantee that they will be able to clean it 100%. Depending on the advice you get from the repair person, it may be worth not cleaning it and investing that $ in another lens. I bet both Sherry and Don at DAG will give honest advise about what to do with that one.
Oil on the blades is not necessarily bad. It can lead to hazing in the future, but if that is not present now and it is in good shape otherwise you may put that off for the future.
http://www.dagcamera.com/
That 100 looks pretty bad, I am sure nobody will offer a guarantee that they will be able to clean it 100%. Depending on the advice you get from the repair person, it may be worth not cleaning it and investing that $ in another lens. I bet both Sherry and Don at DAG will give honest advise about what to do with that one.
Oil on the blades is not necessarily bad. It can lead to hazing in the future, but if that is not present now and it is in good shape otherwise you may put that off for the future.
Essex camera repaired my IIIf years ago with the same problems; RF patch came back like new. They also reapired the aperture blades (ie reset) on a Nikkor 5cm F1.4; came back like new.
The Canon 100mm F3.5 will run ~$100 (Edit: For a replacement lens in EX condition), about the price to repair. What you see could be heavy haze, but it could also be separation between the cemented pair of elements. This lens is 5 elements in 4 groups. It is hard to say until it is opened up.
Also, unless the oil on the blades is very heavy and looks like it will affect the surrounding elements, I would not worry about it.
The Canon 100mm F3.5 will run ~$100 (Edit: For a replacement lens in EX condition), about the price to repair. What you see could be heavy haze, but it could also be separation between the cemented pair of elements. This lens is 5 elements in 4 groups. It is hard to say until it is opened up.
Also, unless the oil on the blades is very heavy and looks like it will affect the surrounding elements, I would not worry about it.
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dexdog
Veteran
I would recommend Essex for the Leica and the Canon, although the Canon may not be worth the bucks. The 100mm 3.5 is a great lens, but yours is without a doubt the ugliest example that I have ever seen. Given the $100 CLA quoted above, it may be best to shop for another example.
mjm6
Established
backalley photo said:
Joe,
That's probably the thing to try, as I think the lens is toast otherwise. Can you describe where it seperates, and what is required?
The hazing appears to be on both sides of the first element next to the aperture to the inside.
---Michael
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Oleg at okvintagecamera.com also repairs old Leicas. He uses parts from old Zorki's I think, but from what I've heard you won't know the difference. I'm thinking of sending my IIf to him, since I can't afford DAG's price.
back alley
IMAGES
i need to take a look at it tonight and then i can report back.
joe
joe
mjm6
Established
Thanks for the input folks,
I'll look into all the options and get the parts sent out if it makes sense. I'm thinking that the lens might make a good parts lens, as I suspect the optics may be compromised beyond repair.
---Michael
I'll look into all the options and get the parts sent out if it makes sense. I'm thinking that the lens might make a good parts lens, as I suspect the optics may be compromised beyond repair.
---Michael
djon
Well-known
You can't ignore that IIIF RD. It is, after all, the absolute ultimate camera. You may not be able to fix the rangefinder without re-mirroring, which could be expensive. But now you own it, so it's on your soul. Prioritize functionality and view/rangefinder before painting it.
mjm6
Established
An update...
I decided to open up the 100mm lens and see if the cloudiness was a repairable item. It was located on both sides of the first element inside of the aperture. Getting the lens apart was fairly simple, but unfortunately, the element was etched by the fungus. No amount of cleaning would remove the marks on the element. I tried several differnt cleaning solutions.
I then decided to take some polishing compund to the element to see if it would come off that way, and it appears that it will, but not without enough polishing to do damage to the element geometry.
So, I think this lens is now officially a parts lens. Once I have another in good shape, I'll probably sell this one for a low price to someone who may be able to replace a front element in a bad lens with the (otherwise perfect) front element from this one.
The IIIf will be sent off for repairs, and the 50mm lens will also be sent in for a cleaning at the same time.
---Michael
I decided to open up the 100mm lens and see if the cloudiness was a repairable item. It was located on both sides of the first element inside of the aperture. Getting the lens apart was fairly simple, but unfortunately, the element was etched by the fungus. No amount of cleaning would remove the marks on the element. I tried several differnt cleaning solutions.
I then decided to take some polishing compund to the element to see if it would come off that way, and it appears that it will, but not without enough polishing to do damage to the element geometry.
So, I think this lens is now officially a parts lens. Once I have another in good shape, I'll probably sell this one for a low price to someone who may be able to replace a front element in a bad lens with the (otherwise perfect) front element from this one.
The IIIf will be sent off for repairs, and the 50mm lens will also be sent in for a cleaning at the same time.
---Michael
If you have not found out already, the Nikkor uses 43mm filters and caps.
mjm6
Established
Brian,
Thanks, I found the size somewhere on the web. I just ordered a vented hood for it from a vendor on the auction site, and I am watching out for a contemporary cap.
---Michael
Thanks, I found the size somewhere on the web. I just ordered a vented hood for it from a vendor on the auction site, and I am watching out for a contemporary cap.
---Michael
John Shriver
Well-known
Replacing the beamsplitter mirror in the Leica is very simple, quite a routine repair.
Sherry isn't taking in any screw-mount Leicas, but DAG will. CRR Luton is well reputed, if very busy.
Sherry isn't taking in any screw-mount Leicas, but DAG will. CRR Luton is well reputed, if very busy.
Sonnar2
Well-known
Hi Michael,
that's sad for the 100mm f/3.5. I once got one with "fogging" as well. Turns out the inner side of the 5th element was clouded, which easily could be unscrewed and cloudiness completely removed. That was NO fungus. It looks to me that time comes for quite some CANON lenses to gain fungus for one or another reason... I observed *many* if not most Canon RF 1.8-50 at ebay were described as "fogged" (chromes as well as black ones)
What amazes me that until now I've seen NO fogged PENTAX SLR lens of the late 50's... (but some of the 70's) ! No dried lubricants either....
cheers, Frank
that's sad for the 100mm f/3.5. I once got one with "fogging" as well. Turns out the inner side of the 5th element was clouded, which easily could be unscrewed and cloudiness completely removed. That was NO fungus. It looks to me that time comes for quite some CANON lenses to gain fungus for one or another reason... I observed *many* if not most Canon RF 1.8-50 at ebay were described as "fogged" (chromes as well as black ones)
What amazes me that until now I've seen NO fogged PENTAX SLR lens of the late 50's... (but some of the 70's) ! No dried lubricants either....
cheers, Frank