Recommandations needed: Cheap, but reasonable good lens wanted..

omega1848

Newbie
Local time
4:23 AM
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Messages
6
Hi there,
I am new (again, coming back from Digital) to the Leica M System and got hold on a very good deal for a M6 in amazing conditions.
I would like to use the camera as my "everyday "point and shoot" camera", therefore I am looking for a cheap, but reasonable lens which I would put on the M6 and "forget".
By cheap, I mean a lens where I do not need to start to cry immediatly if it got some "scratches" or other sign of use (obviously hopefully not on the glass surface itself).
What would be you recommandations for a "bargain" deal on a 50mm or 35mm lens?
What would be a good Leica one?

What about alternatives? Any Russian lenses you would recommend as an alternative? Or is the quality way too low?

Thanks a lot in advance for your advice!

Greetings!
 
Let's assume you want to stay under USD 500 in price.

For 35mm: If you want a vintage look, find a Canon 35/2.8 or 35/1.8 in LTM. If you want a modern look, get a Voigtlander 35/2.5.

For 50mm: If you want a vintage look, find a Nikkor 50/2 or 50/1.4 in LTM, or a Canon 50/1.8 or 50/1.4 in LTM, or a user-condition Summicron collapsible or rigid. For a modern look, get a Voigtlander 50/2.5 or find a Konica M-Hexanon 50/2.

Or you could just get one lens, and go for a 40/2 Summicron-C or 40/2 M-Rokkor (essentially the same lens, though the Minolta probably has more modern coatings) which is a great lens for any money.

::Ari
 
Two other older lenses: 35mm Nikkor f2.5 (I paid $200 a year ago), 35mm Summaron f3.5, around $200. Both of these are excellent lenses, and for a "point and shoot", very compact. Also, the Summitar is basically the same design as the Summicron collapsible, $200, prices are going up for it.
 
Look for a screw mount Jupiter-8 ( 50mm f2 ), an Industar 61 L/D (53mm f2.8), or a really cheap Helios-103 (50mm f1.8). These lenses are at least as good as my old Summitar, but you can have all the three (plus change for the lens adapter...) for the price of a Summitar.

Enjoy your "new" camera!

Franco
 
I too will vote enthusiastically for the Rokkor 40mm f2 lens. Look at Raid's lens comparisons and you will see that the lens is very, very good. You should be able to find one in the $300 - $350 range. One caveat, the lens in its natural state pulls up the 50mm frame lines. This can be fixed by either taping the frame selection lever in the 35mm position, or having the lens modified (very minor modification) to pull up the 35mm frame lines.
 
I too will vote enthusiastically for the Rokkor 40mm f2 lens. Look at Raid's lens comparisons and you will see that the lens is very, very good. You should be able to find one in the $300 - $350 range. One caveat, the lens in its natural state pulls up the 50mm frame lines. This can be fixed by either taping the frame selection lever in the 35mm position, or having the lens modified (very minor modification) to pull up the 35mm frame lines.

I three vote for this lens.

There is one further trick re: bringing up the 35 mm framelines IF you've got the later version of the Rokkor 40/2 (made for the Minolta CLE): once you place the lens in the M bayonet mount, don't lock the lens in place. Just turn it a bit. You'll see the 35 framelines. This idea was suggested in another thread. I've tried it on my M2 and it works. No need to take out the file, then.
 
Get a 35/2.5 Color Skopar and don't look back. Cheap, tiny, and up there in image quality with the 35/2 pre-asph Summicron.

For a 50, the best deal out there in price/image quality/robustness/size/handling/etc is the M-Hexanon 50/2.

With an M6, I recommend to get a lens with .7m min. focus, to fit the framelines.

Skip the Russian lenses unless you are willing to try more than one, or find a "good" one here on RFF.

Best,

Roland.
 
Last edited:
Spiderfrank, the OP just spent around a 800-1000 US on a body, so 200-500 seems "reasonably cheap" (compared to the price of a Noctilux) for a lens to go with it .... 😉

For the OP: the 35/2.5 should run you around US 200-250, the M-Hex around US 350.

Roland.
 
You have an M6. Why did you buy it if not to put the best possible glass on it? The back of the lens will not scratch as long as it is attached to the camera. If you place a filter on the front the front element will not scratch. As for the body of the lens chrome wears better than black. You bought the camera to use not, I trust, to "Vogue" with.
 
If you are going for a 1 lens/1 body set up. The 40mm focal length has the advantage that it can substitute for either a 35 or a 50 ( it is less than a step forward or backward). Both the Rokkor and the Summicron 40f2's are good choices - or if you want that extra stop, the Nokton 40f1.4.
I tend to prefer the 35 frame for the 40 mm. The framelines for 35 in 0,72 M6 are a bit tight and for quick focus and "look" - you dont have to hunt for them. What you see is very much what you get.
I keep a M2 loaded with the 40f1.4 on it at all times. It is my "walk about" camera and it is rare that I wish for something longer or wider for that kind of shooting. If I take a 35, I usually pair it with another body and a 50 or 75 and the whole process gets more "serious". For that walk across the street for a coffee or just a wander down to the beach, the 40 works fine.
Quality wise the 40f1.4 takes no prisoners - it is damned good and the extra stop is occasionally helpful.
If you are going to do a lot of "street" shooting, where you need quick focus - the first version of the Color Skopar 35f2.5 is probably the best. It is a large diameter lens, but "short" and it has the fastest focus from close focus to infinity of any 35. Optically the same as the version II - which means that it is as good as any of the Summicron's and less flare than the Asph Summicron 35 to boot. Slower than the 40f1.4 though.
 
In 50mm, the older summicrons can be had pretty cheaply. I just got a DR from ebay for 150 USD. If you are willing to wait and look for a deal, this route might be the best bang for your buck.

I'm also pretty satisfied with my Industar 61/LD, though there's always a chance of getting a dog of an FSU lens. Of course, at the price, you can probably keep buying until you get a good one and still come out ahead.
 
Back
Top Bottom