Recommend a MF Camera. Criteria Inside.

B-9

Devin Bro
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I’ve got a nice but small 35mm kit.

I’ve got a nice little GRDII digital kit.

As I gear up to find homes for the rest of it ALL I find myself with a ton of 120 film and a strong urge to shoot it and not with the Holga or Diana.

Criteria:
No folders (or bellows)
No uncoupled rangefinders
Standard lens (35-50 equivalent)
Price 400-600$ USD

Just set up a jar to start saving the old way. The plan is to sell what’s left of other kits as well as saving the odd pocket change here and there.

I have ZERO preference for format. 645-690 it’s all fine to burn film with.
 
Since your money will not buy a Hasselblad I would recommend another 6x6 camera that I have had a lot of fun with, the Pentacon 6 TL. For USD 600 I believe you can get an extra lens or two as well.

If you prefer rangefinders there are Fuji models galore to choose from.
 
Yashicamat 124g 6x6 tlr @ about $200. Just bought one (unfortunately had to return due to overlapping frames) but I can see from the roll I shot that the lens is very very good, matching up to my Rolleiflexes. Handles great,bright easy to focus screen. Makes
the sound of a coffee grinder when u wind on the film.
Rolleiflex MX-EVS 3.5 about $500. Lens seems to match up to my 2.8 Rolleiflex. Incredible jewel like comstruction but kinda dim focus screen.
Mamiya 645 Pro series system SLR. Under $500 w lens. Excellent results, easy to use, big heavy, not very fun. A tool.
Fuji GW690 series - can be found under $600. Texas Leica. Awesome lenses and results. 6x9 image can be cropped down to pretty much any other mf format w zero loss of quality. Solid, sturdy but not really fun to use if that matters.
Lomo LC-A 120. Quirky but can give great results. Does not feel built to last.

Anyway, the above are mf cameras that I have used under $600
 
I forgot about TLR's, they are great when you get used to them. One of the undervalued gems is the Minolta Autocord. The Rokkor lenses are knife sharp and it is a joy to use. I think you can still get them for a very good price.
 
The later Rolleicords are a good choice they are lighter than the Rolleiflex and do have a Xenar lens which is just as good as a Tessar. Earlier Rolleiflex are also an option but I don't always trust the Automatic film feeler. The Rolleicords are also usually quiet a bit less expensive than the Rolleiflex.

The Mamiya C330 or C220 are affordable and they have interchangeable lenses that are also affordable.
The Pentacon six has some great glass and is not expensive.
The Kiev 60 is less failure prone than the Pentacon six and has the same mount so great lenses.
The Mamiya RB67 can be found for under 600 Dollars and they are great just not that portable. Earlier Pentax 67 can also be found for under 600.
Basically it all depends on your shooting style rent (from friends, etc) a camera before you buy. TLRs are great just not everyones cup of tea the same applies to pretty much every camera.
 
Another vote for a TLR of some sort. I am sure there is something that meets your needs and budget. Even a user Rolleiflex with cosmetic issues can take great photos if its been serviced somewhat.


I resisted TLRs for many years but now I think they're wonderful.
 
Also forgot the Meopta flexaret and Ikoflex the latter Flexaret can give the Rolleiflex (pre Planar) a run for its money and the Czech despite being a former "eastern Block" country made and still make great quality products. The Post war Zeiss Ikoflex with a Tessar is a superb camera (just suffers a bit from Zeiss interlock craze).
 
Devin, I listed a Kowa Super 66 kit for $425 plus shipping in the classifieds over the holidays; I still have it—80 & 250 lens, 2 filmbacks, 3 VF, grip, maybe a Pola back too. It’s a beast best on a tripod.

I’ve consolidated to lighter MF carries—Fuji GF670 and GA645, Rolleiflex 2.8D. As Huss points out, a Fuji 690 gives you the most negative to work with. I have never gotten a bad exposure with the GA645, nor with a Bronica RF 645–both have good metering, portrait orientation. Fuji GA/GW models should be cheaper than Bronica RFs.
 
I'm looking for something similar to B-9 and in my searching, I've come across information about the shutters on the Fuji 645,670,690 cameras. Information I've found says the shutters need to be serviced after 5000 clicks, or they start to slow down, and if not serviced by 10,000 clicks, they die. Is that true? I'm used to my work cameras having nearly 100,000 clicks and they're still humming along just fine.

Do the Fuji cameras really need service that often, and where can you get them serviced here in the States?

Best,
-Tim
 
Robert,

My heart says GA645,

Wallets yelling “let’s see what we can afford this summer”

The GW690III also peaks my interest and can be found in my budget.

In all honesty, I’ll proly avoid TLRs, been there done that.

Edit: What Tim said! ^^^
 
I'm looking for something similar to B-9 and in my searching, I've come across information about the shutters on the Fuji 645,670,690 cameras. Information I've found says the shutters need to be serviced after 5000 clicks, or they start to slow down, and if not serviced by 10,000 clicks, they die. Is that true? I'm used to my work cameras having nearly 100,000 clicks and they're still humming along just fine.

Do the Fuji cameras really need service that often, and where can you get them serviced here in the States?

Best,
-Tim

not true, it's easy to find them from japan on ebay to worry. I've had 3 and none had issues whatsoever. Some do develop light curtain problems, which don't really affect its uses if not changing lenses mid-roll.
 
Doesn’t TLR really stand for “Tilt Left/Right”—and still get the framing wrong? I feel (and no doubt look) like a bobblehead when I hang a TLR from a strap. Keeping it on a light monopod helps minimize the shuffle-a-stoop-a-dope.
 
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