Mark240590
Soviet Shooter
I managed to make one good lens out of two bad ones. One had bad haze & missing rear element the other, a ruined front element.
After some cleaning and reassembly then testing with a matte glass here is my first sample roll shot with Canon L3
šļø: XX @1600 developed in Bellini DF2
After some cleaning and reassembly then testing with a matte glass here is my first sample roll shot with Canon L3
šļø: XX @1600 developed in Bellini DF2
Muggins
Junk magnet
That doesn't look too shabby, does it?
Is the last one Beamish?
Is the last one Beamish?
Mark240590
Soviet Shooter
Muggins
Junk magnet
I suspect Beamish would be right up my alleyway, but it's a bit of a schlep from Oxford!
Mark240590
Soviet Shooter
Ooft yeah. Whereas Iām only 20 mins away š
It looks good to me.
If you did not do it yet: a "two-point calibration" is useful, one shot wide-open and close-up, and the second wide-open at infinity. This will tell you if the lens is "shimmed" properly with the new element, and if the focal length is correct. The first is easy to correct, need to use a thinner or thicker shim to set distance between the barrel and RF cam. The second- can be corrected by moving the rear group closer to the front to shorten focal length, or moved out to make it longer.
Looking at your pictures: it looks spot on. I've done a similar operation for a Canon 50/1.2 and a Canon 50/1.5. On the latter: I used a rear triplet from a Nikkor 5cm F1.4 to replace the missing group. "Learned all about two-point calibration"
If you did not do it yet: a "two-point calibration" is useful, one shot wide-open and close-up, and the second wide-open at infinity. This will tell you if the lens is "shimmed" properly with the new element, and if the focal length is correct. The first is easy to correct, need to use a thinner or thicker shim to set distance between the barrel and RF cam. The second- can be corrected by moving the rear group closer to the front to shorten focal length, or moved out to make it longer.
Looking at your pictures: it looks spot on. I've done a similar operation for a Canon 50/1.2 and a Canon 50/1.5. On the latter: I used a rear triplet from a Nikkor 5cm F1.4 to replace the missing group. "Learned all about two-point calibration"
Mark240590
Soviet Shooter
I didnāt do it exactly as you say mate but I did go by my usual method having been used to calibrating RFās on soviet bodies of doing close and near. Iām pretty happy with where it is. Iām considering building a rig from a Zorki 4 to set calibration better with a fixed in matte glass and a good magnifier to test focus. Should be easy enough to just mount to a tripod. Just remove the curtains rather than the awkward way I did it with tape on the shutter button š
Very interesting fix using the Nikon rear elements. But as per a discussion I had with my friend. All that matters is that it works š