Canon LTM Repaired serenar 50/1.8

[Mark240590]

I managed to make one good lens out of two bad ones. One had bad haze & missing rear element the other, a ruined front element.

After some cleaning and reassembly then testing with a matte glass here is my first sample roll shot with Canon L3

🎞️: XX @1600 developed in Bellini DF2

 

[Muggins]

That doesn't look too shabby, does it?

Is the last one Beamish?

 

[Mark240590]

That doesn't look too shabby, does it?

Is the last one Beamish?

Aye I’m quite happy with it

All pics were taken at beamish 🙂

 

[Muggins]

I suspect Beamish would be right up my alleyway, but it's a bit of a schlep from Oxford!

 

[Mark240590]

I suspect Beamish would be right up my alleyway, but it's a bit of a schlep from Oxford!

Ooft yeah. Whereas I’m only 20 mins away 😅

 

[Sonnar Brian]

It looks good to me.

If you did not do it yet: a "two-point calibration" is useful, one shot wide-open and close-up, and the second wide-open at infinity. This will tell you if the lens is "shimmed" properly with the new element, and if the focal length is correct. The first is easy to correct, need to use a thinner or thicker shim to set distance between the barrel and RF cam. The second- can be corrected by moving the rear group closer to the front to shorten focal length, or moved out to make it longer.

Looking at your pictures: it looks spot on. I've done a similar operation for a Canon 50/1.2 and a Canon 50/1.5. On the latter: I used a rear triplet from a Nikkor 5cm F1.4 to replace the missing group. "Learned all about two-point calibration"

 

[Mark240590]

It looks good to me.

If you did not do it yet: a "two-point calibration" is useful, one shot wide-open and close-up, and the second wide-open at infinity. This will tell you if the lens is "shimmed" properly with the new element, and if the focal length is correct. The first is easy to correct, need to use a thinner or thicker shim to set distance between the barrel and RF cam. The second- can be corrected by moving the rear group closer to the front to shorten focal length, or moved out to make it longer.

Looking at your pictures: it looks spot on. I've done a similar operation for a Canon 50/1.2 and a Canon 50/1.5. On the latter: I used a rear triplet from a Nikkor 5cm F1.4 to replace the missing group. "Learned all about two-point calibration"

I didn’t do it exactly as you say mate but I did go by my usual method having been used to calibrating RF’s on soviet bodies of doing close and near. I’m pretty happy with where it is. I’m considering building a rig from a Zorki 4 to set calibration better with a fixed in matte glass and a good magnifier to test focus. Should be easy enough to just mount to a tripod. Just remove the curtains rather than the awkward way I did it with tape on the shutter button 😅

Very interesting fix using the Nikon rear elements. But as per a discussion I had with my friend. All that matters is that it works 😊