Rodinal 1:50

[Chinasaur]

There's a Rodinal 1:100 thread, so why not a Rodinal 1:50 thread?

Both of these pics were processed in same tank. 18ml Rodinal in 900ml of water for three reels. 13 min total. 30 sec agitation, then 3 inverts every 3 min. None from 4 min to end.

The first pic is Acros 100@80 w/ a Minolta Maxxum 7000. Scanned unsharp mask at Medium, and adjusted Black and White curve sliders to edge of histogram in Aperture. It's approaching the look of '30's B&W celebrity photos "to me", which is what I like.

This one, however, is vexing me. Acros 100@80 w/ Minolta Maxxum 7000. It appears overexposed, although taken in bright sunlight. Scanned unsharp mask at Medium, and adjusted Black and White curve sliders to edge of histogram in Aperture. I now know the camera "seems" to trend to the overexpose even before an ISO adjustment is made..so I know that from now on....

.

What might I have done differently in developing to downplay the highlights at 1:50 dilution?

Please? And thanks 🙂

 

[zauhar]

I also like Rodinal 1:50.

There first shot does have beautiful tones.

But why do you think the second looks overexposed? There is strong light coming straight down. Looks fine to me - there is plenty of texture and detail.

Randy

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I prefer Rodial at 1+50. I've never seen good results in my work or anyone else's at 1+100. At that dilution, highlights are flat and midtones look muddy no matter how long you develop. This is compounded by most people not realizing, or denying, that highly dilute developers cannot develop a fill tank of film (you should use one roll in a 4 roll tank full of developer to get decent results at 1+100 but you'll see a lot of guys denying it.).

1+50 gives the best quality of any Rodinal dilution, and I have tried 1+25, 1+50, 1+75, and 1+100. Its a gorgeous developer when used right.

Tmax 100

Tmax 100

Fuji Acros

Ilford Pan-F Plus

All in Rodinal 1+50

 

[dovi]

Just started playing with 1:50

Just started playing with 1:50

for some reason I decided to shoot hp5+ @ 100asa. nothing special...

 

[FrankS]

There's a Rodinal 1:100 thread, so why not a Rodinal 1:50 thread?

Both of these pics were processed in same tank. 18ml Rodinal in 900ml of water for three reels. 13 min total. 30 sec agitation, then 3 inverts every 3 min. None from 4 min to end.

The first pic is Acros 100@80 w/ a Minolta Maxxum 7000. Scanned unsharp mask at Medium, and adjusted Black and White curve sliders to edge of histogram in Aperture. It's approaching the look of '30's B&W celebrity photos "to me", which is what I like.

This one, however, is vexing me. Acros 100@80 w/ Minolta Maxxum 7000. It appears overexposed, although taken in bright sunlight. Scanned unsharp mask at Medium, and adjusted Black and White curve sliders to edge of histogram in Aperture. I now know the camera "seems" to trend to the overexpose even before an ISO adjustment is made..so I know that from now on....

.

What might I have done differently in developing to downplay the highlights at 1:50 dilution?

Please? And thanks 🙂

Chinasaur, that dog shot is magnificent. It has a medium format look to it. You nailed it.

Chris, this a totally subjective opinion on my part: what I see on my screen is just a bit too contrasty for my taste.

 

[Mackinaw]

Here's one in Rodinal 1:50. Taken last week. Efke 25.

Jim B.

 

[JayM]

Definitely finding myself digging 1:50 more than 1:100 with Tri-X @ 400.


1:50

The flatness of 1:100 is somewhat appealing considering that I shoot a lot in very contrasty light where cowboy hats etc are pretty good at hiding details.

Nevertheless I'm liking the general look of 1:50 and since I want to pick one way to develop all the time and shoot around it I think I'll stick with 1:50. The scans look better and developing is quicker. I'm sure whatever I decide to stick with will totally go out the window if I ever start wet printing but whatev...

 

[nikon_sam]

I have done both 1:50 & 1:100 and will say that I prefer 1:50
I'm using it with Acros 100, Neopan 400, APX 100...
I was hoping that Neopan 400 @ 1:100 (Rodinal) would really deliver something great and make it all worth while but I have gone back to 1:50

 

[DNG]

I tried 1:50 the other day,, but, I shot at box speed, and almost lost the blacks...

Fuji Neopan 400 at 400
13.6 min at 23c. 10s agitation every 60s... too much. I will try 15s for 1st min, then 10s every 3m... I use 300ml for one roll in a two roll tank. so, 6ml R for 294ml water. I may use 5ml though...and use the same 1:50 time/temp

Grainy... but, oh, the blacks.. never had such rich blacks with 1:100 stand. but better grain.

I have Acros loaded now, I will expose for ISO 64..now I see how it handled box speed.

 

[nikon_sam]

120 Neopan 400 @ 400...Rodinal 1:50 400ml/8ml @68* for 13.5 min. (up from 12.5) Agitate for the first 30 sec. then 10 sec. every 2 minutes...

35mm LegacyPro 100 or 400 doing basically the same thing but using 300ml of developer per roll...

 

[Chinasaur]

DNG!!! Doood!! This is my issue!! Yeah..for sure...the blacks are inky and deep...and oh sooo dark....BUT...No depth or detail 🙁 .. But oooh yeah..the GRAIN is reeeaaally small..which is what we're after too .. eh?

Soooo..... HOW do we expose for the highlights AND keep the black details? Over normally exposed and contrasty material? And try 3.0ml to 3.5ml per reel...vs ratio .. I learned this over at the 1:100 thread. 3-3.5ml per reel vs dilution is the key..

AND BTW, I'm diggin these shots....soooo much inky black goodness 😀

 

[charjohncarter]

I'm not a fan of Rodinal 1+50 or any other dilution with 35mm film. But with Tmax100 it is just barely acceptable:

I do use it for 120 though (1+50; Tmax400):

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Most films lose a little speed in Rodinal 1+50. If you like the Rodinal look, its worth it. The speed loss varies from 1/3 to a full stop depending on the film.

 

[Chinasaur]

I'm not a fan of Rodinal 1+50 or any other dilution with 35mm film. But with Tmax100 it is just barely acceptable:

I do use it for 120 though (1+50; Tmax400):

That 120 is very crisp/clear...

 

[DNG]

@Chinasaur
I aim my center weighted meter where more high-lights are but keep some darker areas also., still a mix though... and lock it on my G1... that way, the high-lights have a better chance of surviving...

 

[Brian Legge]

I love Rodinal 1:50 and have been using it with all sorts of film. Acros is my current favorite but its hard to go wrong with slower films. Here are some examples with development info.

Pan F+:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/5852137234

Double X:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/5743975130

FP4+:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/5732359417

TMAX 100:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/5629858981

Acros:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/6089405971

Neopan 400:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/5032931895

 

[Bingley]

Rodinal 1:50 is my go-to developer. TMax 100 @ 50:


Roots and Rocks by bingley0522, on Flickr

 

[charjohncarter]

That 120 is very crisp/clear...

Thanks, 120 Tmax400 and Rodinal are just that: crisp and clear and I'll add sharp.

 

[Mackinaw]

Took this on Sunday. APX 100.

Jim B.

 

[Stuart John]

APX100 Rodinal 50:1 Zorki1 industar 22..