Rolleiflex F removal of meter & differential get???

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I'd like to know if anyone has done this or if it would work.

I'm thinking about removing the meter from my 3.5F. The meter works but is questionable even after calibration. Part of the issue is the angle of view is so wide that it's almost impossible to get accurate readings. In any case my preference is to use a hand held meter.

I've been inside the front panel of the camera. Inside there is a differential gear assembly that couples the aperture and shutter speeds to the exposure meter. It's a very complex little system. The differential gear assembly comes out very easily disengaging the shutter speed wheel and aperture wheel from the meter but will retain full function of shutter and aperture.

I'm considering removing that differential gear to make the aperture and shutter wheels smoother in operation since I don't use the meter. In addition I would remove the meter cell and replace it with the black plug made for the non meter version. I was able to find one recently on eBay. Also I'll remove the meter movement from the side which won't be needed. I also have a carbon fiber plug that's quite attractive with a silver Rollei crest in the center. It was made to replace the meter movement from the focusing knob and works very well and looks great.

While inside the camera I noticed the aperture system is spring loaded and wants to set the aperture scale to f8. This is with the front off. It may be that I need to remove that spring but don't know for sure until I try with our removing it. I really don't feel comfortable doing a major teardown and prefer to do the minimum.

Has anyone removed the meter and differential gear from their F? Any issues from those that are experienced in working on their F?

Your experience is appreciated.

Don
 
How about decoupling further back than the differential? If you find the drag annoying, go inside the side panel and disconnect the movement there. Leave the differential in place. This way someone down the road should be able to reconnect it if they want without having to find parts you put in a drawer and forgot.

Same with the meter cell- just leave it. I find the black plugs less interesting than the meter window, and if someone wants to install a new cell in the future, the transparent window will be useful.
 
Slightly off topic - I have late 3.5F (six elements Planar) which is w/o meter (factory made). Was this very common/normal or...?
 
Slightly off topic - I have late 3.5F (six elements Planar) which is w/o meter (factory made). Was this very common/normal or...?

I'm really curious about your camera. In my reference books I find no mention of a non metered F.

I don't doubt you but does it have cross coupling that can be disengaged between the aperture and shutter speed wheels? Why I ask is the nameplates are interchangeable between the E2-3 and F. If yours is cross coupled you have an E with an F nameplate but if not then I don know. It might be a one of a kind or someone may have done what I'm think of doing.

Could you post a photo of it?
 
I'm really curious about your camera. In my reference books I find no mention of a non metered F.

I don't doubt you but does it have cross coupling that can be disengaged between the aperture and shutter speed wheels? Why I ask is the nameplates are interchangeable between the E2-3 and F. If yours is cross coupled you have an E with an F nameplate but if not then I don know. It might be a one of a kind or someone may have done what I'm think of doing.

Could you post a photo of it?

I will upload some pictures tonight. I bought it almost mint from one Italian maybe 10 years ago, I still have an original box and papers. I had it CLA'ed by late Jürgen Kushnik (and then Maxwell screen installed). Mr Kushnik did not comment about any modifications he would have noticed...

P.S. Here are some lousy iphone pictures...


 

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Un-metered Fs are out there. In addition matched kits of calibrated meter cell and galvanometer were sold by Rollei enabling an unmetered camera to be converted to metered.
Cheers,
Brett
 
FWIW I asked Harry Fleenor to remove the meter and metering cells on a 2.8F during a CLA. He fitted a "plastic blank" (the black plug) and a "reminder disc"/ "memo disc" like on the E models in their place. The reduced bulk is nice to work with and the controls very smooth.
 
FWIW I asked Harry Fleenor to remove the meter and metering cells on a 2.8F during a CLA. He fitted a "plastic blank" (the black plug) and a "reminder disc"/ "memo disc" like on the E models in their place. The reduced bulk is nice to work with and the controls very smooth.

Good choice. I much prefer the reminder to the meter-in-knob. More compact and better looking (I care how my cameras look).
 
When I purchased my 3.5 "whiteface" I also had the meter removed. Unfortunately the seller said that there was no cover to cover the hole left if the ASA setting dial was removed. So it is still there and has no purpose. When I have the camera CLA'd I may try to have a cover made for the hole.

Note that the F shown above also still has the ASA setting dial. That indicates to me that it the meter was removed previously.
 
I will upload some pictures tonight. I bought it almost mint from one Italian maybe 10 years ago, I still have an original box and papers. I had it CLA'ed by late Jürgen Kushnik (and then Maxwell screen installed). Mr Kushnik did not comment about any modifications he would have noticed...

P.S. Here are some lousy iphone pictures...


 
When I purchased my 3.5 "whiteface" I also had the meter removed. Unfortunately the seller said that there was no cover to cover the hole left if the ASA setting dial was removed. So it is still there and has no purpose. When I have the camera CLA'd I may try to have a cover made for the hole.

Note that the F shown above also still has the ASA setting dial. That indicates to me that it the meter was removed previously.

Check eBay. There's a very attractive carbon fiber plug made for it that has the Rollei crest in it. It's available in silver or gold. I think I paid around $17. You can install it in about a minute.
 
Thanks for posting the images. What you have is basically what I'm going to do. Because there's a compensation dial on the side it had to be a metered version from the factory. Somewhere along the way the cell and meter movement were removed.

Thanks again!

Yes, that is probably the case. As I bought it almost unused it did not cross my mind somebody modified it.
 
I had a T with the meter but it wasn't very accurate but I didn't keep it very long. I just didn't care for the single lever to set both shutter speed and F stop. The problem with these meters is the acceptance angle is just too wide and it's easily influenced by sky and clouds. I've tried aiming the cell down at about 45 degrees but it still picks up stray light.

I just don't see any point in having it if it doesn't work properly. What I'd like to do is remove all the external parts, cell, meter movement and asa dial. Filling the hole for the asa dial could be tricky but as an alternative I'm thinking of having a nice silver plate engraved with either Rolleiflex F on it or my name. It could be stuck on the side to cover the hole. I believe Rollei used a similar piece on some of the special editions. I've also contemplated changing the leather to navy blue. This is a camera I'll keep so I'm not worried about value.
 
Check eBay. There's a very attractive carbon fiber plug made for it that has the Rollei crest in it. It's available in silver or gold. I think I paid around $17. You can install it in about a minute.

That plug is nice.

The dial below it which was used to set the ASA for the meter is the one I am talking about. I would also like to remove it since I already have a ASA reminder in the focus dial which replaced the meter.
 
That plug is nice.

The dial below it which was used to set the ASA for the meter is the one I am talking about. I would also like to remove it since I already have a ASA reminder in the focus dial which replaced the meter.

I picked up a service manual which is unfortunately lacking some of the info I wanted but it has the detail diagrams of the ISO dial. I'm going to see what's involved in removing it.
 
I picked up a service manual which is unfortunately lacking some of the info I wanted but it has the detail diagrams of the ISO dial. I'm going to see what's involved in removing it.
Don,
Is that the 400-odd page Rollei manual? It's a bit short on detailed instructions, but has many exploded diagrams and parts lists. Klaus Prochnow also published some books on the various Rollei products (some in German, some also in English), and National Camera Repair also did a manual for the 2.8F, reprints of which are easy to find on eBay.

If you do need link to the Rollei factory manual, I should be able to find it on the web for you, or send you a Dropbox retrieval link.
Cheers,
Brett
 
Don,
Is that the 400-odd page Rollei manual? It's a bit short on detailed instructions, but has many exploded diagrams and parts lists. Klaus Prochnow also published some books on the various Rollei products (some in German, some also in English), and National Camera Repair also did a manual for the 2.8F, reprints of which are easy to find on eBay.

If you do need link to the Rollei factory manual, I should be able to find it on the web for you, or send you a Dropbox retrieval link.
Cheers,
Brett

Brett it's 112 pages and I think it's part of the national camera manual. It states there's a supplement regarding correct reassembly and installation of the front assembly and that's missing. I bought it from eBay.

I took the front panel of and successfully got it back on but something isn't quite right as the aperture only stops down to 16-1/2 not 22. I think it's something slightly out of time with the differential gears. I figure there has to be a procedure to do it properly. It's not a fun job to get everything lined up and stay in place as you re assemble.

If you have a link to the Rollei manual that might help.
 
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