pmu
Well-known
Yes, there's the question: could you post samples of pictures with 45mm lens WITHOUT the center filter @ f4? Please do so if you have something... And naturally pictures without any corrections in PS.
Ali Riza Kutlu
Member
You can check my website to see the pictures you are asking for. I don't use center filter and shot mostly between f4 to 8......Though, it is hard to remember which f I used at the moment like for many of us...
quantum-x
Established
From memory - as I don't have the info recorded - these are 45mm w/o center filter
Plug through http://quantum-x.ice.org/ for more..
Plug through http://quantum-x.ice.org/ for more..
OscarGarrido
Established
I don't use the very expensive center filter.
www.garridoserra.com
www.garridoserra.com
Papercut
Well-known
Lovely panos on your site, Oscar. Very effective work -- I especially liked the reflections of the two men in the window, with the lingerie mannequins in the foreground. Do you always use a tripod with your xpan? Or are some of those handheld?
Bill58
Native Texan
How much are used center filters selling for these days?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
photogdave
Shops local
There's a bunch of shots in my gallery with the 30mm. I almost never use the filter but I do mostly street stuff with it. I use the filter when shooting landscapes on slide film.
haagen_dazs
Well-known
about 200usd + for an original piece (for the 45mm center filter)
not sure about the rest
robertdfeinman
Robert Feinman
I haven't used this combination, but I do use the 12mm Heliar on a Bessa and it suffers from quite a bit of vignetting.
If you don't mind shooting color or B&W negative film you can compensate using Photoshop (or similar) on scanned negatives.
I have some tips on this on my web site, including an action for Photoshop you can download and modify for your setup.
Basically what you do is overexpose about 1-1.5 stops so that the corners
are not underexposed. Modern films can handle the overexposure, especially color negative film.
Then you apply a radial gradient mask to the image and add some curves using this mask to equalize the parts of the image. It's easier to do than to explain. Once you have the mask created for a given setup you can just open it for further images.
I do stitched 360 panoramas with this lens and the seams are very obvious if one doesn't eliminate the fall off. You can see some examples of this on my site as well.
If you want to see the tips, just follow the tip link on my home page.
If you don't mind shooting color or B&W negative film you can compensate using Photoshop (or similar) on scanned negatives.
I have some tips on this on my web site, including an action for Photoshop you can download and modify for your setup.
Basically what you do is overexpose about 1-1.5 stops so that the corners
are not underexposed. Modern films can handle the overexposure, especially color negative film.
Then you apply a radial gradient mask to the image and add some curves using this mask to equalize the parts of the image. It's easier to do than to explain. Once you have the mask created for a given setup you can just open it for further images.
I do stitched 360 panoramas with this lens and the seams are very obvious if one doesn't eliminate the fall off. You can see some examples of this on my site as well.
If you want to see the tips, just follow the tip link on my home page.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
I nearly always use the center filter, in reading Bjorn Rorslett's XPAN info convinced me (thought I didn't glue it on as he has 
).
http://www.naturfotograf.com/xpan1.html
He always steered me right with lens info for the Nikons, so I took his XPAN info at it's word.
).http://www.naturfotograf.com/xpan1.html
He always steered me right with lens info for the Nikons, so I took his XPAN info at it's word.