greggan
Stefan L
robertdfeinman
Robert Feinman
While there is nothing wrong with the advice given, I think there are a few things that can be done to simplify.
When scanning using Vuescan I preview, then adjust and lock exposure, film base and color. Then do the first part of the image. I then take the holder out and reposition the film so that the second part is in the same frame location as the first. This means using positions 2 or 3 for 35mm usually.
Doing this there are no changes needed in the software between the two scans.
I don't generally like to do adjustments in Vuescan. I prefer to just ensure that there is no clipping at either end of the histogram and do the editing elsewhere.
The newer versions of Photoshop have the auto stitching feature, but for those using some thing else. You can import both images and then stack them as layers on an expanded canvas. Set one image mode to "difference" and slide the top image around until the difference overlap shows black. Because of variations in position and film curvature while scanning it won't be possible to get the entire overlap area to go black. All that is needed is the transition edge area do so.
After getting the images aligned, then set the mode back to normal, flatten and crop as needed.
I find I can do nearly everything needed using curves with masks if necessary. In CS4 one can slide the end pointers on the curve while holding down the alt key and see where clipping will start. This is very useful for getting the optimum contrast range. further adjustments to the curve shape and the individual color curves can be made as well.
There is a tendency for images to be made contrasty and with too much saturation, but this is up to the aesthetic aims of the photographer. Personally I prefer not seeing inky shadows and blown out clouds.
If using Panorama Factory for stitching it is important not to set the format to one of the curved types or you will get the double bowing seen in the example. I don't see any advantage in using this software for this purpose since one is not warping the image, just combining the halves.
I've tried scanning a panorama image in one go using a flatbed scanner with a film adapter (Epson) and find the resolution much inferior to that from the dedicated ones designed for 35mm.
I've got some tips of my own, if you want to see other ideas on bringing out the best in your images on my web site. Just follow the tips link on the home page.
When scanning using Vuescan I preview, then adjust and lock exposure, film base and color. Then do the first part of the image. I then take the holder out and reposition the film so that the second part is in the same frame location as the first. This means using positions 2 or 3 for 35mm usually.
Doing this there are no changes needed in the software between the two scans.
I don't generally like to do adjustments in Vuescan. I prefer to just ensure that there is no clipping at either end of the histogram and do the editing elsewhere.
The newer versions of Photoshop have the auto stitching feature, but for those using some thing else. You can import both images and then stack them as layers on an expanded canvas. Set one image mode to "difference" and slide the top image around until the difference overlap shows black. Because of variations in position and film curvature while scanning it won't be possible to get the entire overlap area to go black. All that is needed is the transition edge area do so.
After getting the images aligned, then set the mode back to normal, flatten and crop as needed.
I find I can do nearly everything needed using curves with masks if necessary. In CS4 one can slide the end pointers on the curve while holding down the alt key and see where clipping will start. This is very useful for getting the optimum contrast range. further adjustments to the curve shape and the individual color curves can be made as well.
There is a tendency for images to be made contrasty and with too much saturation, but this is up to the aesthetic aims of the photographer. Personally I prefer not seeing inky shadows and blown out clouds.
If using Panorama Factory for stitching it is important not to set the format to one of the curved types or you will get the double bowing seen in the example. I don't see any advantage in using this software for this purpose since one is not warping the image, just combining the halves.
I've tried scanning a panorama image in one go using a flatbed scanner with a film adapter (Epson) and find the resolution much inferior to that from the dedicated ones designed for 35mm.
I've got some tips of my own, if you want to see other ideas on bringing out the best in your images on my web site. Just follow the tips link on the home page.