School me on Hasselblads

PatrickT

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I've decided that I want to look seriously into getting a Hasselblad. A classic one. However, I'm a bit confused by the differences between the models (500, 501, C, CM, etc etc).

Is there a good guide to the differences between these somewhere? Of the classic 'Blads, is there a specific one to get?

All I know is that I want one with a chrome lens 🙂
 
I agree with Jeff. I have a 500C/M with a Planar 80 (chrome) and its a magnificent combo. I did upgrade the viewing screen for easier focus and better brightness. Beautifully classic.
 
If you're keen on a chrome lens, keep in mind that the chrome Hassy lenses didn't generally come multicoated (marked T*) from the factory. You can sometimes find ones that were sent back later for recoating with T*, but they're a bit rare.

Not having multicoating isn't a huge deal, as long as you avoid shooting into light sources and use a lens hood. That said, I love the T* coating on my V lenses since they have a very consistent colour balance and contrast, and are harder to flare.
 
For "point and shoot", it is a 203FE for me, and a 110mm f2.

But classical shooting, I have a 501cm with 80mm f2.8.

Any of the 500 or 501 cameras will do you for a lifetime.

And when you want to "broaden out" (ha ha pun), get an SWC
 
If you're keen on a chrome lens, keep in mind that the chrome Hassy lenses didn't generally come multicoated (marked T*) from the factory. You can sometimes find ones that were sent back later for recoating with T*, but they're a bit rare.

Not having multicoating isn't a huge deal, as long as you avoid shooting into light sources and use a lens hood. That said, I love the T* coating on my V lenses since they have a very consistent colour balance and contrast, and are harder to flare.

Of course you are right about the chrome T lenses but I have found that my single coated 80 is soooooo nice for B&W and I always shoot with a hood.
 
Thanks guys!

Looking around KEH, I see that some of the lenses are designated "C" or "CF" or "CB". I'm guessing that I would want a "C" lens.

Also, KEH has a chrome 80/2.8 that apparently has the T* coating, although for a higher price.

Also...focusing screens. Some of the bodies on KEH come with different focusing screens. Accute-Matte, Brightscreen grid, Beattie Interscreen, etc. Which ones are preferable?
 
An additional question: If I were to purchase a camera/lens/back from a place like KEH, is it worth it to spend a little more and go for an EX condition one versus BGN condition? I don't care so much about cosmetics...I care about the camera being in good functional shape.
 
Stop a moment and think: I will make bold points, so that you can get clear information

1) Haselblad is a tripod camera
2) If you only want an 80mm lens, Rolleiflex is better in almost every respect.
3) If you buy it for longer lenses, you should get 501 c, c/m or 503 cw versions - the previous ones vignette in the VF with lenses over 100mm, and also the later versions have acute matte screen, which otherwise will set you back 200 USD.
4) The Compur lenses (C version) have unreliable shutters, that have to be repaired periodically, and the spare parts are running out
5) Make sure you buy the magazines with a warranty - they often have problems and a cla is as expensive as the magazine at times.
6) Two best buy lenses are Distagon 60 and Sonnar 150.
 
Gosh, I don't want to start a fight but my 40 years plus experience doesn't entirely agree with mfogiel's assertions.

Yes, the Hasselblad is happier on a tripod but they can be handheld comfortably, with the addition of a handgrip or even just a soft-touch button on the shutter release.

As a long time user of both, I'll agree the Rolleiflex is better, if only for its quietness, in some situations but there are a lot of cases where the SLR viewing does give me a better experience.

The vignetting is real but it can be overstated. I still use my 500C and 500CM bodies with the 150mm and it's not really a big deal.

The Compur shutters are astonishingly reliable but it is true that parts for the silver lenses are now running out fast and are very hard to find.

I've never had a problem with any magazine and I always buy second hand.

I agree whole heartedly about the 150mm, black ones are now at bargain prices. For wide, I prefer the 50mm but that's a preference thing.
 
Stop a moment and think: I will make bold points, so that you can get clear information

1) Haselblad is a tripod camera
2) If you only want an 80mm lens, Rolleiflex is better in almost every respect.
3) If you buy it for longer lenses, you should get 501 c, c/m or 503 cw versions - the previous ones vignette in the VF with lenses over 100mm, and also the later versions have acute matte screen, which otherwise will set you back 200 USD.
4) The Compur lenses (C version) have unreliable shutters, that have to be repaired periodically, and the spare parts are running out
5) Make sure you buy the magazines with a warranty - they often have problems and a cla is as expensive as the magazine at times.
6) Two best buy lenses are Distagon 60 and Sonnar 150.

I disagree with you in every aspect.

1. I use it for sports and wildlife and most of the time handheld.

2. The 500c does not have a user interchangable focusing screen.

3. The 500cm has a user interchangable focusing screen.

4. The 501cm has the gliding mirror which means the mirror moves up and back clearing the rear element on longer lenses.

5. The 501cm was made slightly cheaper. Then the orginal 500c and 500cm

6. The el elm and such have automatic winders.

7. The most common lens setup are the 50 80 150. It was the old standard. The 80 is the standard lens for the hasselblad.

8. I shot the c lens are single coated ct* are multicoated.

9. The c and ct* lens are reliable but if they do need parts it might be harder to find parts for them.

10. Cf lenses are the next generation after ct* (what I use)

11. Hasselbalds are reliable but need a cla if not used for a long time or used hard.

12. The backs are reliable, never had one with a problem. But again a cla if not used for a long time or used hard.

13. They are expensive and once you start it's hard to stop
 
14. The 150 on mine does not vingette the screen but have heard some do. Old pros said it was never a problem to compose.
 
Gosh, I don't want to start a fight but my 40 years plus experience doesn't entirely agree with mfogiel's assertions.
...

I agree ... I love Rolleiflex TLRs, but overall I'd have to say that for most purposes I found the Hasselblad 500CM more useful and more versatile due to the interchangeable backs. The Rolleiflex is really really nice in lower light situations (virtually no camera vibration) and when quiet is essential.

When I had my 500CM, I had 80 and 150mm lenses for it. The 150mm was particularly sweet, but I have to say I used the 80 most of the time, and used my first SWC (903SWC model) more. I've never had difficulty hand-holding a Hasselblad down to about 1/30 second, but it is a camera that really lends itself to use on a tripod with the waist level finder ... as does the Rolleiflex TLR. 🙂

Regards the film backs ... Many of the lower priced backs on the used market are well worn and need new light seals (inexpensive) and/or rebuilding of the film transport (a bit pricey) to be up to spec for serious use. Some are terribly beat up — loose on the camera, prone to leaks and frame misalignments, sometimes causing jams. The Hasselblad 500 is a fairly complex mechanical camera, all those mechanical pieces need to be in good working shape for it to perform well.

For this reason, I've bought EXC quality used A12 backs, typically costing in the $250-290 range each, for my recently acquired SWC. With these, I am confident that I'll get many years and rolls of film service from them before they need any work. And if I end up with another 500CM, they'll be ready for all the work I want to throw at them too.

G
 
I made BOLD points, however I have serious doubts about shooting wildlife handheld at 1/30th with a Hassy. I have several bodies and all lenses between 38 and 250mm, and the only one that does the trick is SWC.
 
I made BOLD points, however I have serious doubts about shooting wildlife handheld at 1/30th with a Hassy. I have several bodies and all lenses between 38 and 250mm, and the only one that does the trick is SWC.

LOL ...! I have serious doubts about shooting nearly any wildlife with a short lens, and you're going to need a lot shorter than 1/30 second to keep a long lens medium format SLR still enough for good results.

What wildlife are you shooting that an ultrawide FoV is an advantage?

G
 
It's all about the tricks!?!?!?!?!?!? But no, under normal circumstances I would not shoot at 1/30 handheld. Normally it's about 125 to 250 depending.
 
Hmmm. I like Classic Hasselblads. I have four bodies (500C/M and 500EL/M) and all CT* lenses from 30mm Fisheye to 350mm Tele-Tessar, except for the 250Apo and the 105uv. Use them all, they are all black CT* so everything matches in age and vintage. Shutters are all accurate according to David Odess, the Hasselblad repair Guru. These cost a King's Ransom at one point in time, absolutely the finest you could buy.

For three decades I collected -all- the accessories I could find at reasonable prices. There are HUNDREDS and they are fun to have and sometimes very cheap and generally plentiful.

The erector set of photography. Go for it and enjoy.
 
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