Seeking tips for B&W Infrared Photography

[ulrich.von.lich]

Hello,

I'd like to experience some IR films.

It appears there are only three films left:

Ilford SPX200 (ISO200)
Rollei IR400 (ISO400)
Ekfe IR820/Aura (ISO100)

First of all, I have two questions concerning exposure and focus.

1.People are talking about exposure compensation. Is it because of the filter? If so would it still be necessary if the camera has TTL metering?

2.How should I deal with the focus shift? Is the infrared focus closer or farther than usual?


I'm particularly interested in the portrait area.

Are there possibilities to shoot infrared films hand held?

The only thing I found after some brief search on the internet is to use SPX200 and a red filter, which reduces the film speed from 200 to 50/25. And due to the nature of the film (not as sensitive as a true IR film) and the use of a red filter instead an opaque one, there is no need to apply focus correction once the aperture is slowed down to f4 to f5.6. (cf to thread http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53823) So daylight, ISO25 and f5.6, there's a chance. The problem is how much IR effect I would get.

Are there any tips of infrared photography that you could share?

Thank you!

Best Regards,
Tony

 

[Finder]

I would do a search on the web to see how each film renders--I have never been impressed with the Ilford response, but that was in terms of my use.

I would not meter through the filters. The real IR filters won't allow metering and the red response of your meter my give a false reading for the red filter.

If you are using small apertures for depth of field, I would not worry about it. IR requires a slight shift requiring you to focus closer.

Time of day and season really affects IR. Bracket, getting a handle on exposures take a lot of experience. You really need to nail the exposure for good results--normal slide film is so much easier and far more forgiving compared to IR in terms of exposure.

 

[sevo]

It appears there are only three films left:

Ilford SPX200 (ISO200)
Rollei IR400 (ISO400)
Ekfe IR820/Aura (ISO100)

Right as far as currently available ones are concerned - there must be some more left that are only sold in bulk or in larger format, or are classified.

First of all, I have two questions concerning exposure and focus.

1.People are talking about exposure compensation. Is it because of the filter? If so would it still be necessary if the camera has TTL metering?

Even if you should have a camera with a reasonably high IR sensitivity of its TTL sensor(s), you would still need a correcting factor to match the sensor to the film and filter combination. The sensitivity given is for unfiltered light, the IR sensitivity is much less (or even very much less - about eight stops or factor 256 in the case of IR820), and moreover depends on the filter. Factors aren't safe by the way (the visible light/IR ratio depends on daytime, or lamp types), but they are better starting values than TTL through the filter - in either case, you'll have to find your own factors for a given light, lens and meter combination, and once you have done so, you can attempt to translate them to filtered TTL factors (provided that the camera is IR sensitive and you are not past the meter range).

2.How should I deal with the focus shift? Is the infrared focus closer or farther than usual?

Closer. Lenses will usually have a red dot next to the main focus mark - focus visually and shift to that dot, and you're set.

I'm particularly interested in the portrait area.

Are there possibilities to shoot infrared films hand held?

You are aware that human skin is pretty much devoid of structure (apart from hair, old bruises and scars) in IR? You will need special make-up and a make-up artist who knowns how to handle it.

The only thing I found after some brief search on the internet is to use SPX200 and a red filter, which reduces the film speed from 200 to 50/25. ... The problem is how much IR effect I would get.

Quite enough to be ugly unless you have learnt your make-up lessons, but not as dramatic as some pictures you may have seen. Rollei IR is a bit more dramatic and still fast enough for handheld with 780-790nm filters. More significant filters will bring Rollei down to Efke speed, about ISO 0.5-1, where hand-held is plain impossible - for extreme hand-held IR you will either have to get hold of old Kodak HIE stock, or use a digital camera without IR blocking filter.

Sevo

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Tony,

Ilford film is not really infrared, it just has extended sensitivity...

I used HIE from Kodak, and haven't shot infrared since it disappeared, but I'd recommend you to buy a couple of rolls of the film that is actually infrared these days... Check the forums... You can use one for a first test, and the second one to make real shots.


I recommend you to buy the real infrared filter, the deep red, so you can block (almost) all visible light, and that way you'll register mostly infrared light: it's like heat, we don't perceive it with our eyes. The filter is the very dark red infrared filter, (Hoya R72, B+W 92) and through it (almost black) you can only see a bit of dark red coming through it from light bulbs or the sun... There is or was color infrared film too, best with the orange IR filter:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/3766100517/



Some people like a soft effect (Ilford film) and some others prefer the intense true infrared light recording, with a real infrared film and the black filter. This is what I preferred.


About exposing: you never know, because it's not like exposing normal film. Meters are made for metering visible light, not for metering infrared light... And infrared light is different depending on altitude, time of the year, and changes from day to day too...


Some less dramatic effects can be done with a red filter... The way to do it is rating the film at the speed suggested by the manufacturer, metering TTL, and bracketing a few stops up and down.


Some other people bracket, no matter the filter, up and down 1/250 f/8...


Do it on bright sunny days, with blue skies, and maybe just a few clouds passing...


Some lenses have a red dot to focus a little closer when trying to focus for infrared... I never cared.
You really need to shoot that first roll to see how to expose. Bracket generously, especially up (opening for more light...)
Then, for the second roll you'll bracket less and be able to get every scene...


Cheers,


Juan

 

[JohnTF]

Never had much luck with meters and IR, look for the recommended exposures with the film.

Might be worth finding an older Nikon digital with the IR filter off, to use as a meter.

I get a good IR effect with my M8, but have focus problems, perhaps a bad filter.

When I shot IR with a Blad, and Konica IR, the focus correction seemed to cause more harm than good, I was using at least an 820 cut filter as I recall. I have a shot in my gallery. I used no correction when using an orange filter with my Russian fish eye on a Pentacon, but got decent dark skies and white trees along the Seine with that rig.

I think your own experience will quickly surpass most of the recommendations. ;-)

Regards, John

 

[HHPhoto]

It appears there are only three films left:

Ilford SPX200 (ISO200)
Rollei IR400 (ISO400)
Ekfe IR820/Aura (ISO100)

Thank you!

Best Regards,
Tony

Hi,

there are more films with IR capability on the market. All films with aerial photography as origin have an extended red sensivity and can be used with good / very good IR effects with the dedicated filters.

Usable are also

- Rollei Retro 80S (test report with IR images: http://www.aphog.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=314&Itemid=148

With this film high resolution and extremeley fine grain IR pictures are possible. Complete different look compared to all other IR films, which all have a quite significant grain.

- Rollei Superpan 200
- Rollei Retro 400S

Cheers,
Jan

 

[charjohncarter]

I use Efke IR820: I shoot at F11 1-2 seconds full sun, half sun half shade F11 4-6 seconds, mostly shade F11 up to 10 seconds. This is with a R72 hoya filter, and the only time I meter is if I use a 25 red filter which I set at EI12 or F11 at 1/15 second in full sun. I develop in HC-110h for I think 14 maybe 18 minutes, normal agitation. Here are a couple with R72 filter:

 

[photogdave]

I'm a fan of the Rollei IR. I expose it at 12 or 25 ISo with R72 filter. If you take the filter off you can shoot it as regular ISO 400 film. This film can be loaded in regular subdued light - no need for complete darkness!