atelier7
Well-known
Hi there, it's been a while since i pulled out the IIIC.
i haven't tested it with film, but i realised that no matter whether I've got the shutter speed to 1/100 all the way through to 1/1000... it sounds like it's moving at the same speed! Is this normal? or is it now travelling at one speed?
i haven't tested it with film, but i realised that no matter whether I've got the shutter speed to 1/100 all the way through to 1/1000... it sounds like it's moving at the same speed! Is this normal? or is it now travelling at one speed?
OldNick
Well-known
I don't have a IIIc, but do have a IIIa and a IIIf. I can generally hear the sound get shorter as the speeds increase. A better check would be to remove the lens and watch the shutter, starting with 1/20 and going through each step to 1/1000. At 1/20, the shutter should open, then close. As you advance to higher speeds, you should see a narrow slit cross the film plane. At the higher speeds, only the sound is different.
Jim N.
Jim N.
Xmas
Veteran
The slow speeds should make a characteristic sound the two fast slow speeds should be different in sound and the 1 second should be consistent and close to one second.
You should see the whole frame at slowest fast speed 1/20 with the lens removed, you need a thin white card, pushed carefully from below - larger then 24x36 so it does no foul the blinds. I open out a film box carefully in the field.
There should be no bounce at right hand side as the blind is stopped. The is a definite krunch krucch noise at the slowest fast speed. There is progressively less separation in this noise as the fast speeds are selected shorter and you can see the effects on the white card.
Probably you have to send away if there is a problem, but if you fire each speed >300 times it may clear up any stiff lube problems, good training for the release finger too.
Noel
You should see the whole frame at slowest fast speed 1/20 with the lens removed, you need a thin white card, pushed carefully from below - larger then 24x36 so it does no foul the blinds. I open out a film box carefully in the field.
There should be no bounce at right hand side as the blind is stopped. The is a definite krunch krucch noise at the slowest fast speed. There is progressively less separation in this noise as the fast speeds are selected shorter and you can see the effects on the white card.
Probably you have to send away if there is a problem, but if you fire each speed >300 times it may clear up any stiff lube problems, good training for the release finger too.
Noel
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
Not that I know much about anything, but the 'book' does suggest running through all the speeds etc once a month to keep the shutter lube working. I've just run my IIf through its speeds - not much different to a IIIc because its an ungraded IIc and I can hear a difference in note. The slower speeds do sound at a lower frequency and I can hear the difference between 1/30 and 1/40 very clearly.
The idea of firing the shutter a fair number of times sounds a good idea. Leave it a day and listen again.
The idea of firing the shutter a fair number of times sounds a good idea. Leave it a day and listen again.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
jesse1dog said:
I have discovered a little trick that may help. Sit the camera in front of one of those small fan forced heaters for half an hour or so ... then run through the shutter speeds repeatedly for five minutes or until you get bored with it! Do this a few times and you will be amazed at the results!
ZeissFan
Veteran
Some shutters using braking mechanisms to slow the movement of the curtains at slower speeds -- although not at the slow speeds, which is controlled by a different mechanism.
Now, if the lubrication has gelled or hardened, the braking mechanism won't work, and the shutter will simply slam shut.
While warming the hardened lubrication will allow the braking mechanism to work, this is only a temporary solution. Once it reaches this point, the camera should be serviced.
Like all things mechanical, routine service isn't a bad thing, whether it be a furnace, car or camera. And one of the qualified Leica repairers can get the camera back into spec and running smoothly again. Well worth the cost, I believe.
Now, if the lubrication has gelled or hardened, the braking mechanism won't work, and the shutter will simply slam shut.
While warming the hardened lubrication will allow the braking mechanism to work, this is only a temporary solution. Once it reaches this point, the camera should be serviced.
Like all things mechanical, routine service isn't a bad thing, whether it be a furnace, car or camera. And one of the qualified Leica repairers can get the camera back into spec and running smoothly again. Well worth the cost, I believe.
Xmas
Veteran
If you are a collector you should run throught each speed once a week... the Contax IIa and IIIa are the most in need of this excersise.
Noel
Noel