back alley
IMAGES
from the start i have used the smallest sized af box but was just playiing with it as a bigger size...it seemed quicker that way...my imagination?
what size do you keep your green af box at?
what size do you keep your green af box at?
MiniMoke
Well-known
Logically a bigger box should make AF easier as there is a larger sample for the sensor Than a very tiny focus area. But too big will give it sometimes too much choices for focusing I guess.
Try to find an intermediate size that gives the best results.
Try to find an intermediate size that gives the best results.
willie_901
Veteran
I use an intermediate sized box too. I don't hesitate changing the box size as needed. The smaller size seems to lower the chance that the focus point will select a higher contrast target behind the intended object. A larger box seems to increase the speed because it is easier to find an object with suitable contrast.
Most of my work is well-suited to focus and recompose, so I place my intended focus point in the center of a medium-sized box.
Most of my work is well-suited to focus and recompose, so I place my intended focus point in the center of a medium-sized box.
back alley
IMAGES
anyone else?
.
.
f16sunshine
Moderator
When in AFs I use the smallest.
Primarily I use Manual focus and the afl button to set my focus point.
See I mostly spot meter in Aperture priority.
In manual with the afl button I can quickly focus and leave it there then, if I wish I can move the center point (the spot meter) to where I wish to place exposure and then hold the shutter half way, recompose, and take the shot.
It sounds like a lot of steps as I just describe it but it's very quick and easy for portraits and static objects.
For more fluid scenes I use AFs and center "weighted metering" (big spot meter or whatever they call it).
Now with peaking I will use M lenses in the same way I described using Manual with the native lenses sans afl button.
Primarily I use Manual focus and the afl button to set my focus point.
See I mostly spot meter in Aperture priority.
In manual with the afl button I can quickly focus and leave it there then, if I wish I can move the center point (the spot meter) to where I wish to place exposure and then hold the shutter half way, recompose, and take the shot.
It sounds like a lot of steps as I just describe it but it's very quick and easy for portraits and static objects.
For more fluid scenes I use AFs and center "weighted metering" (big spot meter or whatever they call it).
Now with peaking I will use M lenses in the same way I described using Manual with the native lenses sans afl button.
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
Hi Joe,
When I had Fuji AF lenses, I used the intermediate size, and just made sure I was pointing it in the right direction.
I don't remember ever having a picture turn out to be focused on something other than the intended. Maybe there are certain types of photography that are more conducive to using small, medium, or large boxes? That would be an interesting line of inquiry here. For example, for slow, purposeful landscape photography maybe the small square would make it easier to focus on one tree rather than another. And maybe the same applies to portraits where DOF is tight and you're trying to stay focused on the eye closest to the camera?
Anyway, now that I only have manual focus lenses on the X-Pro1, I'm quite used to using the magnification tool or zone focusing, depending on required speed.
When I had Fuji AF lenses, I used the intermediate size, and just made sure I was pointing it in the right direction.
I don't remember ever having a picture turn out to be focused on something other than the intended. Maybe there are certain types of photography that are more conducive to using small, medium, or large boxes? That would be an interesting line of inquiry here. For example, for slow, purposeful landscape photography maybe the small square would make it easier to focus on one tree rather than another. And maybe the same applies to portraits where DOF is tight and you're trying to stay focused on the eye closest to the camera?Anyway, now that I only have manual focus lenses on the X-Pro1, I'm quite used to using the magnification tool or zone focusing, depending on required speed.
back alley
IMAGES
i use the 'matrix' metering...or whatever fuji calls it...it is pretty dead on most of the time. i used to use spot metering if available on an camera but don't see the need these days.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Jamie,
Have you loaded the Firmare 3.0 for your x-pro.
The peaking tool actually works quite well for manual focus guys using M and other non-native lenses.
Have you loaded the Firmare 3.0 for your x-pro.
The peaking tool actually works quite well for manual focus guys using M and other non-native lenses.