Someone explain to me the Nikon F2 meter switch

Beemermark

Beemermark

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So I have a different problem than most people, my meter won't turn off when you push the wind lever into the body. Now this isn't really a problem but every few years it starts me scratching my head. I've taken the bottom off and I just can't figure out how or what is suppose to separate the switch prongs. A good picture can be found here -


https://www.photrio.com/forum/attachments/14_unjamb_f2-jpg.183062/


Can someone enlighten me? I'm not much for camera repairs and someday I'll send it for a overhaul. But I would know how it is supposed to work.
 
Just working off the repair manual, I don't have an F2 in front of me...

The plate under the plunger
Page 18 Figure 11 Part 278

Also seen as follows
Page 14 Figure 7 Part 278 (right edge of drawing)

Can also be seen in your linked photo (upper left)
with the Green & Yellow wires running to the battery box

What looks like the plunger can be seen in the photo
and also on Page 18 Figure 11 Part 280

Meter Switch Connecting Rod Subassembly A25
Part 409 connecting rod
Part 280 meter switch pin

The connecting rod might be jammed,
... but I wonder about the linkage between the film
advance and the electrical circuit...
 
shimokita said:
J

Meter Switch Connecting Rod Subassembly A25
Part 409 connecting rod
Part 280 meter switch pin

The connecting rod might be jammed,
... but I wonder about the linkage between the film
advance and the electrical circuit...
Click to expand...

Part 280 is a plastic insulating cap. Part 409 does not change position when the wind lever is moved. The connecting rod is down, closing the circuit, to energize the meter. What actuates the connect rod (409) on the top deck? Not sure how it can be jammed since it is internal to the camera and the camera has not suffered any impact damage.

Not sure I understand your last sentence. i removed and inspected the switch and can't see any damage.
 
Did you buy this F2 with a meter working as it should or has it always been this way? I feel like a bad ground from a sloppy resoldering of the battery box would cause this problem. Just a hair's width more solder and a lead will contact the body. Add to that, if the camera has taken a knock in the last 40 years, one of the joints could ground and cause this problem. It's not a hard fix to do but it is hard to do it perfectly and elegantly.
Phil Forrest
 
shimokita said:
The connecting rod might be jammed,
... but I wonder about the linkage between the film
advance and the electrical circuit...
Click to expand...

Beemermark said:
Part 280 is a plastic insulating cap. Part 409 does not change position when the wind lever is moved. The connecting rod is down, closing the circuit, to energize the meter. What actuates the connect rod (409) on the top deck? Not sure how it can be jammed since it is internal to the camera and the camera has not suffered any impact damage.

Not sure I understand your last sentence. i removed and inspected the switch and can't see any damage.
Click to expand...

I don't have an F2 at hand but it looks like the connecting rod (409) is directly under the shutter button [activating the meter on half press (?) ].... My concern in the last sentence is how does the film advance lever turn off the meter when the advance lever is "closed". I couldn't see how it worked from the diagrams in the Repair Manual. From the electrical diagram it doesn't seem to be circuitry so I am assuming there is a mechanical link between the closed film advance lever and the shutter button assembly (?).

Do parts 409 & 280 move when the shutter is pressed?
 
The meter is actuated by pulling the wind (film advance) lever away from the body. Pushing the wind lever flush with the body should turn the meter off, it doesn't. I can't decipher how the wind lever translates a horizontal movement into a vertical movement of the 208 rod.
 
Check out this photo...

f2_wiring-jpeg.183103


it's from the following link...

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/nikon-f2-diy-repairs-maintenance.148552/
 
I realized you had already seen that photo... sorry about that...

You may have tried the following... it's what I would try if the M2 was mine.

01) take off the bottom plate and see if the rod & pusher move when the film advance lever is closed vs. open

02) If the rod & pusher move (01) then put a piece of electrician's tape on the plate under the rod & pusher, replace the bottom plate, close the film advance and confirm that the meter is off. (A) If the meter is on then you might have an [intermittent or full time] electrical short. (B) If the meter is off then the tip of the plate under the rod & pusher might be too low and always touches the bottom plate.

03) If the rod & pusher don't move (01), can the rod & pusher be pressed up when the film advance lever is closed. This might indicate that something is wrong with the linkage.

04) To test if something is wrong with the linkage, remove the top plate (film advance side) and see what's going on...

It's just one DIY approach...

Casey
 
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