Phantomas
Well-known
I'd like to try stand-developing. From what I see people usually develop for roughly an hour with very minimal or no inversions at all. I wanted to ask something as I'm struggling to find any info: are there any rules of thumb about film type and developing times (and inversions) when stand developing? Obviously such info is not available on Massive Developing Chart and I was wondering how safe it would be to apply the same formula/times to all types of B/W film. What about the developers? Are most of them good for stand developing? I use Rodinal most frequently, which I understand is quite commonly used developer for this purpose.
Your advice would be appreciated. Also, extra appreciation for posting stand-developing examples with film type and your directions. Thanks!
Your advice would be appreciated. Also, extra appreciation for posting stand-developing examples with film type and your directions. Thanks!
Mablo
Well-known
Phantomas, the easiest way to start with stand development is to shoot a test roll of just about any film between ISO 100 to 400 at box speed and soup it in Rodinal 1:100 (5ml of Rodinal and 495ml water if you have 0,5l tank). Agitate slowly 1 min and let the tank stand for the remaining 59min. *Do Not Touch* the tank during the development. This is very important.
The photo below is TMY-2 stand developed in Rodinal just as I described above.
The photo below is TMY-2 stand developed in Rodinal just as I described above.
Mablo
Well-known
In case I need to push my negs a little bit I'll swirl the tank at 30min mark for a short period, maybe 5 sec.
The photo below is Neopan 400@800, stand developed in Rodinal for one hour.
The photo below is Neopan 400@800, stand developed in Rodinal for one hour.
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Phantomas
Well-known
Thanks! I really like the results I see from stand-developing. Usually nice contrast and tones, just like in your photo.
From your comment, talking about film speeds, can I assume that 1600 does not do well with stand-developing?
From your comment, talking about film speeds, can I assume that 1600 does not do well with stand-developing?
degruyl
Just this guy, you know?
I assume that you have seen: http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643
Post #47 in that thread has quite a lot of information.
This thread has information on pushing Tri-X to 12,800 in Rodinal 1+50 http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4441
Try it, see if it works.
A couple of cautions:
make sure that there is space below the reel (I use one 120 reel in a 2 reel tank, with 35mm spacers above and below).
Don't be surprised if the spent developer is very dark, that is the anti-halation layer.
You will see significant edge effects (halos). Or, at least I did. I like this, but you may not.
Large areas of even exposure (sky, walls) look splotchy and uneven.
Post #47 in that thread has quite a lot of information.
This thread has information on pushing Tri-X to 12,800 in Rodinal 1+50 http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4441
Try it, see if it works.
A couple of cautions:
make sure that there is space below the reel (I use one 120 reel in a 2 reel tank, with 35mm spacers above and below).
Don't be surprised if the spent developer is very dark, that is the anti-halation layer.
You will see significant edge effects (halos). Or, at least I did. I like this, but you may not.
Large areas of even exposure (sky, walls) look splotchy and uneven.
Mablo
Well-known
Thanks Phantomas. You mean ISO 1600 film at box speed? I've never tried it so can't comment on that.
degruyl
Just this guy, you know?
I suspect you want to treat that as pushed one stop (if Neopan 1600). I believe that the native ISO is 800 for that film and it is listed for 1600.
Don't quote me, though: I just use Tri-X for anything over 100.
Phantomas
Well-known
Thanks for that! I was meaning to ask about the downsides of stand-developing (why wouldn't everyone do it?) but my guess was that it's due to personal preferences, plus I guess "regular" developing would be considered more "scientific" what with more exact times and agitation techniques.
pufy
Established
One way to aovid that is to simply hit the bottom of the tank gently a couple of times, this way you get rid of the air bubbles.
Another thing worth mentioning is you should avoid overexposure, you will get burned highlights a lot quicker this way. Also, the temperature is not so crucial in stand developing, anything between 17-23 degrees Celsius should do the trick.