blacksquare
Member
Hi,
at the beginning I want to apologize for my bad English
I started with my own wet printing and I have problem with stand developed negatives (Rodinal 1+100)
Some are very flat and for me as a beginner its hard to work with them.
I shoot Fomapan 100 and 200, HP5, Acros.
I like to use stand/semi-stand development for scanning (a lot of space for postprocess), edge effect and my comfort (temperature, time, agitation).
But I enjoy printing and with standard methods (rodinal 1+25, 1+50) are my results much better.
Internet is full of articles about stand d., but not with printing in mind.
What are your experiences? Thanks for help.
J.
at the beginning I want to apologize for my bad English
I started with my own wet printing and I have problem with stand developed negatives (Rodinal 1+100)
Some are very flat and for me as a beginner its hard to work with them.
I shoot Fomapan 100 and 200, HP5, Acros.
I like to use stand/semi-stand development for scanning (a lot of space for postprocess), edge effect and my comfort (temperature, time, agitation).
But I enjoy printing and with standard methods (rodinal 1+25, 1+50) are my results much better.
Internet is full of articles about stand d., but not with printing in mind.
What are your experiences? Thanks for help.
J.
skibeerr
Well-known
I have left stand developing altogether, the little bit of extra work with normal developing is rewarded with, as you state, better and consistent results.
On the other hand I never had flat negatives with stand, can you explain your workflow, measuring light, iso etc?
On the other hand I never had flat negatives with stand, can you explain your workflow, measuring light, iso etc?
blacksquare
Member
I am using rodinal 1+100 in 500ml tank, one 120 film.
Fomapan 100@64, Fomapan 200@125 and HP5@400, sometimes 800 or 1600.
First minute agitation, stand for 1h(more if I push HP5), swirl at 30m.
Measuring light - I am using Minolta spotmeter and place important shadows with detail in zone 3.
If scene is very contrasty or I push HP5, then negatives are better.
But in normal light or indoor, negatives are flat and dull. Not bad for scanning, but printing is another thing...
Fomapan 100@64, Fomapan 200@125 and HP5@400, sometimes 800 or 1600.
First minute agitation, stand for 1h(more if I push HP5), swirl at 30m.
Measuring light - I am using Minolta spotmeter and place important shadows with detail in zone 3.
If scene is very contrasty or I push HP5, then negatives are better.
But in normal light or indoor, negatives are flat and dull. Not bad for scanning, but printing is another thing...
mwooten
light user
Do you use filters when you print?
blacksquare
Member
No, I tried only more graded paper. Better, but still dull.
So variable contrast paper ad filters?
So variable contrast paper ad filters?
Ronald M
Veteran
5 ml Rodinal may not be enough. Try 10. If developer is exhausting, rolls of different length or snow vs shade may give inconsistent results.
I would highly recommend you follow instructions and learn to print before going off into experimental land . Pick one or two films, one is better, and master it before moving on. You are not helping yourself.
Rodinal is a poor push developer.
Some films will scan and print with same development time like Tmax.
Plus x will not. Again learn one film.
Santtu Määttänen
Visual Poet
Stand development in rodinal is a nice trick in the arsenal for highly contrasty scenes / films. But for the reasons you state, it's not go-to choice for me. I use it time to time, but not because it's easy, but because the picture I have in my mind calls for it. Printing low contrast negatives can be difficult, I would recommend split contrast printing. It makes life much easier when negatives look dull and grey.
skibeerr
Well-known
The use of a spotmeter, exposing for shadow detail, means you need to vary exposure and development to maintain consistent contrast for printing. Stand does not give you this control. (Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights)
As in the previous post learn what works for you in stand and do the rest with normal development, and even this will take some testing to get consistent results for printing.
Chris Crawford and John Carter are the ones to go to on this site.
As in the previous post learn what works for you in stand and do the rest with normal development, and even this will take some testing to get consistent results for printing.
Chris Crawford and John Carter are the ones to go to on this site.
blacksquare
Member
OK, thanks for your help.
KenR
Well-known
Hc110
Hc110
I have used semi-stand when forced to by a mixture of different contrasts on the same roll. The results are ok, but as others have said, not as good a tailoring the development to the scene contrast.
That said, I have used HC110 at 1:100 for 30 minutes at 68 degrees with 30 seconds initial agitation and then 2 shakes at 10 minutes and again at 20 minutes.
Let us know how it turns out.
Hc110
I have used semi-stand when forced to by a mixture of different contrasts on the same roll. The results are ok, but as others have said, not as good a tailoring the development to the scene contrast.
That said, I have used HC110 at 1:100 for 30 minutes at 68 degrees with 30 seconds initial agitation and then 2 shakes at 10 minutes and again at 20 minutes.
Let us know how it turns out.