vdonovan
Vince Donovan
Hi folks,
The mail just arrived: an Ansco Speedex Special, which appears to be an Agfa Isolette II. It's in amazing condition and I'm ready to shoot my first roll.
One question: I can't focus the darned thing. It appears that the outermost knurled ring on the lens is the focus ring (it's marked in feet from 3 to infinity) but it won't turn. It seems to be stuck at 8 feet. Am I right that this is the focus ring? Any tips for un-freezing it? I'm reluctant to really crank on it.
thanks and best regards,
Vince
The mail just arrived: an Ansco Speedex Special, which appears to be an Agfa Isolette II. It's in amazing condition and I'm ready to shoot my first roll.
One question: I can't focus the darned thing. It appears that the outermost knurled ring on the lens is the focus ring (it's marked in feet from 3 to infinity) but it won't turn. It seems to be stuck at 8 feet. Am I right that this is the focus ring? Any tips for un-freezing it? I'm reluctant to really crank on it.
thanks and best regards,
Vince
W
Way
Guest
Not familiar with the Ansco Speedex Special but it sounds like it needs a CLA. From what I've read - don't try to force the focus ring to move. Probably best to send it to Jurgen Kreckel for the CLA: http://www.certo6.com/
His website is also a wealth of information.
His website is also a wealth of information.
whitecat
Lone Range(find)er
It is frozen because of age. Put a cloth on it then move it with channel locks. It will move. The lube has frozen up.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
No channel locks, please. The lube used by Agfa for the helical has dried out and has turned into a goopy glue. Before you do anything else, check the bellows on this puppy for light leaks. If the bellows are good, then consider the following.
Essentially in normal operation the brass retainer for the front element screws and unscrews within brass retainer of the second element for front cell focusing.
The front two elements are at present more or less glued together. The first step is to remove the aluminum focus ring. You'll need a set of "new" or like-new jeweler's screw drivers for this. There are three retaining screws that secure the focus ring to the brass retainer for the front element. Loosen, but do not fully unscrew these screws. They are small, easy to lose and a PIA to reinstall. Loosen all three of them a half turn at a time.
A few drops of light fluid can go on the helical threads at this point with time to soak in.
In lieu of channel locks, use a beefy hose clamp for a car heat hose. The front collar of the brass lens retainer needs a couple of layers of gaffer's tape cut into a thin 1/8 inch wide strip. Gaffer's tape is made of cloth, not paper. Then install the hose clamp.
Turn the clamp counter clockwise to remove the lens. What you have in your hand is the front element still glued solidly to the center element. So, you have removed not one, but two elements. Go ahead and remove both the clamp and tape.
Soak them in a film cannister with lighter fluid - a.k.a. naptha - over night. Wipe off the excess naptha, place under a warm lamp or warm with a blow dryer. Then repeatedly attempt to unscrew the two elements from each other.
You may wish to reinstall the hose clamp to get a good enough grip. Gaffer's tape and naptha don't mix well. Once separated spend a couple of days of first soaking then cleaning the threads with q-tips and maybe wooden tooth picks to clean every last molecule of the original lubricant, which started to turned green during the Reagan administration.
Grease with a thinnish synthetic silicone grease upon reassembly.
Essentially in normal operation the brass retainer for the front element screws and unscrews within brass retainer of the second element for front cell focusing.
The front two elements are at present more or less glued together. The first step is to remove the aluminum focus ring. You'll need a set of "new" or like-new jeweler's screw drivers for this. There are three retaining screws that secure the focus ring to the brass retainer for the front element. Loosen, but do not fully unscrew these screws. They are small, easy to lose and a PIA to reinstall. Loosen all three of them a half turn at a time.
A few drops of light fluid can go on the helical threads at this point with time to soak in.
In lieu of channel locks, use a beefy hose clamp for a car heat hose. The front collar of the brass lens retainer needs a couple of layers of gaffer's tape cut into a thin 1/8 inch wide strip. Gaffer's tape is made of cloth, not paper. Then install the hose clamp.
Turn the clamp counter clockwise to remove the lens. What you have in your hand is the front element still glued solidly to the center element. So, you have removed not one, but two elements. Go ahead and remove both the clamp and tape.
Soak them in a film cannister with lighter fluid - a.k.a. naptha - over night. Wipe off the excess naptha, place under a warm lamp or warm with a blow dryer. Then repeatedly attempt to unscrew the two elements from each other.
You may wish to reinstall the hose clamp to get a good enough grip. Gaffer's tape and naptha don't mix well. Once separated spend a couple of days of first soaking then cleaning the threads with q-tips and maybe wooden tooth picks to clean every last molecule of the original lubricant, which started to turned green during the Reagan administration.
Grease with a thinnish synthetic silicone grease upon reassembly.
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Muggins
Junk magnet
Indeed, sounds like the infamous Agfa Green Gunge problem.
Solinar's advice is pretty sensible as far as I can tell, you will find more if you search the archives here: http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi
You may need to search for Isolette as well as Speedex - as far as I know, the Ansco cameras were simply badged as Ansco rather than Agfa and are essentially the same thing. However it's a topic that comes up regularly so you should find plenty of help there.
Adrian
Solinar's advice is pretty sensible as far as I can tell, you will find more if you search the archives here: http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi
You may need to search for Isolette as well as Speedex - as far as I know, the Ansco cameras were simply badged as Ansco rather than Agfa and are essentially the same thing. However it's a topic that comes up regularly so you should find plenty of help there.
Adrian
vdonovan
Vince Donovan
Thanks, friends. That's a wealth of information. I'll give it a try this weekend.
best regards,
Vince
best regards,
Vince
FallisPhoto
Veteran
vdonovan said:
That is indeed the focus ring and that's a very common problem with Agfas and Anscos. They used a type of grease that reacts with the brass over time, turns green, polymerizes and deposits some pretty tough plastic-like molecular chains on the threads. Here's the solution:
To free it up, you have to do the following:
1. mark the position of the ring surrounding the lens. Use a china marker/grease pencil with a sharp point to do this.
2. remove the three set screws holding the ring in place and take off the ring.
3. mark the position of the lens ring (front element) in relation to the ring surrounding the rear element.
4. unscrew the front and middle element. They usually come out as a single unit, welded together by that green grease.
5. now comes the tough part: getting the front and middle elements apart. You can either use heat to soften the hardened grease, and then unscrew it with brute force (being very careful not to damage the threads on the rear element), or you can put it in a film cannister with lighter fluid and let it soak for about a month (no, I'm not kidding, it takes about a month). If the grease has softend, and partially dissolved, you should be able to unscrew the two lens elements from one another. If not, back in it goes to soak for another week or two. Eventually they'll come apart. If you decide to use force, try a strap wrench or a pair of rubber pads; do not use pliers. Pliers, or anything else that is harder than the soft brass used to make the threaded rings holding the glass, will damage the lenses so they can't be used. There is no way to avoid this. Don't use a lot of heat either. I've taken lenses apart just by putting them in the sun on the back porch for an hour during summer -- that was hot enough. It is still going to take some force but they will sort of v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y unscrew from one another. It may take a couple of reheatings to get them apart.
6. once they are apart, clean out the grease from the threads. Pick out what you can with a pin and then scrub with naptha and a toothbrush.
7. relubricate, using a good grease. Here's a tip: synthetic greases won't dry out for many years.
8. screw the middle element down tight into the shutter.
9. Screw the front element into the middle element, all the way down, then back it out until the marks you made line up.
10. reinstall the ring surrounding the lens, with the marks you made on that lined up where they are supposed to be, and tighten the set screws. Be careful, they are made of aluminum and if you overtighten them, it's very easy to break the heads off.
Incidentally, when you have the lens out is a good time to clean the shutter blades. If you know how to do it, disassemble the Prontor/Compur/Pronto shutter and clean it by hand, oiling the friction points very sparingly (about the amount of oil it takes to wet the end of a needle). If you don't know how to do this, then get a big box of Q-tips and some lighter fluid. Set the aperture as wide as it will go and mop the front of the shutter blades with a sopping wet Q-tip. While it is still wet, work the shutter a couple of times and then mop up the mix of lighter fluid and dissolved crud with the dry end of the Q-tip. Repeat, over and over again, about 50 - 100 times. This is not the best way of doing this, because you can only get at one side of the blades. Working the blades a few times between moppings, while wet, will transfer the crud you can't get at to the side of the blades you can get at though. It takes a while but eventually your blades will be clean enough that you'll get your shutter speeds back to normal. When you are done do NOT oil the shutter blades. I mention this only because a lot of beginners do it. Shutter blades are designed to run dry; oil will make them stick together and the shutter won't work at all.
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Muggins
Junk magnet
FallisPhoto,
You mentioned using a synthetic grease. Can you recommend any brand names or grades? I'm struggling to find something appropriate for a similar job myself. I'm in the UK, but with current exchange rates it probably won't make a lot of difference if it's a brand from the US, so long as I can get it mail-order.
Thanks,
Adrian
You mentioned using a synthetic grease. Can you recommend any brand names or grades? I'm struggling to find something appropriate for a similar job myself. I'm in the UK, but with current exchange rates it probably won't make a lot of difference if it's a brand from the US, so long as I can get it mail-order.
Thanks,
Adrian
vdonovan
Vince Donovan
Got it!
Got it!
Overnight soaking in lighter fluid, followed by about two minutes blasting with a Perfection Classic Euro Style 1875 hair dryer. I was able to unscrew the elements with just my fingers. Now cleaning green gunk from the threads.
Thank you all for your help.
Got it!
Overnight soaking in lighter fluid, followed by about two minutes blasting with a Perfection Classic Euro Style 1875 hair dryer. I was able to unscrew the elements with just my fingers. Now cleaning green gunk from the threads.
Thank you all for your help.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Sweet! I'm so glad that no one had to result to channel locks.
Here is a web page for your future reference.
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
Here is a web page for your future reference.
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Muggins said:
Go to an automotive parts store and get Mobil 1, Moly Pure, or Synthlube. Those are good synthetic greases that won't dry out. BTW, don't lube the threads on the middle element that screws into the shutter. You don't want this element to move. The threads on the front element (the one that screws into the middle element) should be lubed though.
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Thardy
Veteran
@vdonovan: If you don't mind telling. Where did you get this camera?
VictorM.
Well-known
I just found this thread. I have one of these I cla'd myself a few years ago. Here's some good repair info: http://www.davidrichert.com/AGFA rebuild/agfa.htm I found that repairing the bellows was the biggest problem. Black fabric tape found in an art supply store worked for me. Once repaired, these cameras are fun and give surprisingly high quality images.
Paris, Ontario:
Paris, Ontario:
Attachments
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
VictorM. said:
I looked at that link and I disagree only with the part about how bellows replacement will add $100 to the cost of the camera; it doesn't have to. If you get a Kodak 66 (for about $15 on ebay) along with your Isolette, then you will have a POS plastic camera with a very good, well built, and easily harvestable 6x6 bellows that you can transplant into the Isolette (it is pretty much the only good part of the Kodak 66). Ever since "new old stock" 6x6 bellows became scarce, I've been buying one of these whenever I need a 6x6 bellows.
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Solinar said:
Hey Rick, any idea how to get the tripod socket out of a Billy Record? It looks like I'm going to have to do that in order to get that film rail/bellows retainer piece out (in order to change the bellows). I have two Records and I am hoping that I don't have to destroy one in order to see how the tripod socket is attached (so I can get it out of the other one). Do they just unscrew? If so, can I just drill two small holes in the ring around the socket and use a pencil point spanner to get it out? Is there a better way to do this? I can't see how I would be able to get a grip on it otherwise even with channel locks.
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vdonovan
Vince Donovan
Hi thardy, I bought the camera on ebay (not from certo6) for $36.00 It has the apotar lens and Prontor SV shutter.
Muggins
Junk magnet
Thanks for those suggestions - got something to look for now!
Incidentally, I've just discovered that someone over on the Classic Camera Repair Forum (I remember the thread starting, so I dodn't know how I missed the post) recommended Halfords (generic autoparts store) synthetic bike grease. Really annoying - I'd already been down there twice in the weekend!
Adrian
Incidentally, I've just discovered that someone over on the Classic Camera Repair Forum (I remember the thread starting, so I dodn't know how I missed the post) recommended Halfords (generic autoparts store) synthetic bike grease. Really annoying - I'd already been down there twice in the weekend!
Adrian
FallisPhoto said:
Kevin Brown
Established
Various fluids/solvents for freeing hardened focus thread grease have been recommended all around the web; just thought I'd share what finally worked for me with a Ricoh Hi Color 35. Lens on this was not stiff, but absolutely glued tight, as so many have found with the Isolettes/Speedexes.
I removed the lens from the shutter and soaked overnight in denatured alcohol - did nothing. Soaked overnight in WD-40 - did nothing. Same thing with lighter fluid. Finally I remembered that I've been able to get completely dried/hardened acrylic and oil paint out of brushes and off of painting knives by soaking in an art material called Turpenoid Natural. I believe it's orange-oil based; the manufacturer is pretty vague about it's makeup. So I tried soaking the lens overnight in it - nothing, at first. Finding the lens still absolutely frozen, I decided to give up and re-install it in the camera in order to test it's meter and general mechanical function. Once re-assembled in it's outer knurled ring, on whim I decided to get a good grab on it twist with all my might - foomp !,
it came free and starting moving smooth as silk.
Now it could have been the accumulated effect all the previous solvents adding to the final soak in Turpenoid Natural; I'll never know, but I thought it was worth sharing. An added advantage of this stuff is it's non-toxic, non-flammable and has very little odor.