stop bath powder?

[jazzwave]

Hi,
I'm planning to process BW by myself.
I know Kodak have Developer (D-76) and Fixer in powder, is there any stop bath chemical in powder as well?

I ask this question, because shipping chemical liquid not allowed to my country.

Please advise

~ron~

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

@jazzwave, you can probably buy something locally that will work, something not specific to photography. I was taught that a quick water wash (still in complete darkness) is almost as good.

Here's a discussion on using vinegar. Says that food pure white vinegar is satisfactory. You'll have to find the right dilution.

Photo stop baths have an "indicator" to show when they are exhausted. Just replace the stop bath frequently and you don't need the indicator.

 

[jazzwave]

@jazzwave, you can probably buy something locally that will work, something not specific to photography. I was taught that a quick water wash (still in complete darkness) is almost as good.

Here's a discussion on using vinegar. Says that food pure white vinegar is satisfactory. You'll have to find the right dilution.

Photo stop baths have an "indicator" to show when they are exhausted. Just replace the stop bath frequently and you don't need the indicator.

@ColSebastianMoran, thanks

From the link :
"This is a safe and effective stop bath that is quite inexpensive. It will not indicate exhaustion. If left too long in a tray it might form mold. Go to the store and buy the cheapest vinegar available. Mix 1 part Vinegar with 4 parts water "

Has anyone tried this "recipe"?

~ron~

 

[Freakscene]

White vinegar works just fine. You can also use citric acid powder - 20g/L for paper and 5 g/L for film.

Marty

 

[Chris101]

You don't really need stop bath with film (you do with prints though.)

 

[x-ray]

You don't really need stop bath with film (you do with prints though.)

Stop isn't necessary for prints. Those of us using formulary TF4 and 5 fixers can't use stop. Formulary specifies no stop because the fixer is alkaline and the stop which is acid neutralizes it. I use tap water for both film and paper with all fixers regardless of brand. I've done this for forty years.

My degree is in chemistry and distilled white vinegar is pure acetic acid. It's about 5% if I remember correctly. Chemically it's exactly the same as non indicator stop but more dilute than the 28% or 99% glacial acetic that's available through photo dealers and chemical suppliers. I wouldn recommend 99% glacial acetic acid due to the danger of handling concentrated acids.

Both white vinegar and acetic acid used in stop bath are synthetically produced usually from high sulfur coal.

Be sure to dilute any acetic acid to working strength around 2% or so. Use one shot since it's so cheap. Stop bath that's too strong can cause gas bubbles to form in the emulsion forming little craters that show up in the print. I've seen this first hand. This is why I like using water. IMO it creates an easier transition between chemicals of different PH.

 

[KenR]

H2o

H2o

I just use a water rinse when processing film - some say air bells are caused by too harsh a stop bath, and my air bell problem went away when I started using a water rinse instead of stop bath.

For prints I use Ilford or Kodak stop bath. Never used vinegar, sorry.

 

[mike rosenlof]

White vinegar works just fine. You can also use citric acid powder - 20g/L for paper and 5 g/L for film.

Marty

+1. I have used both, either works just fine. You can find citric acid powder at the grocery store in the canning supplies.