SimonSawSunlight
Simon Fabel
one of the strap lugs of my M4 is a little loose (in fact it has been loose for 1-2 years, but I have the feeling it's gotten a bit worse). it doesn't move in and out, but I can turn it quite easily (~90°).
is there an easy way to re-fix it, or does it even matter? I haven't had a problem with it so far, but I'd rather not see it fall down a staircase with the heavy 1.2/35 on...
thank you in advance!
is there an easy way to re-fix it, or does it even matter? I haven't had a problem with it so far, but I'd rather not see it fall down a staircase with the heavy 1.2/35 on...
thank you in advance!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Rotating lugs are common, and not regarded by most as a problem. In 40 years of using Lecas I've only ever seen one with a strap lug pulled out. Rattling lugs are anther matter and would probably leak light ayway.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
uhligfd
Well-known
Would unscrewing the lug, applying a bit of locktite (the medium strength type) and rescrewing the lug in do it?
I do that with loose screws all the time, but on a Leica? Heresy? Get a CLA instead ...! 50$ minimum price, ... ? I just do not know.
I do that with loose screws all the time, but on a Leica? Heresy? Get a CLA instead ...! 50$ minimum price, ... ? I just do not know.
SimonSawSunlight
Simon Fabel
the camera has had a good CLA by Youxin a little more than a year ago, he obviously didn't think this was a problem.
I just wanted to be sure, so I thought I'd ask (thanks Roger!).
I just wanted to be sure, so I thought I'd ask (thanks Roger!).
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
Do they screw in? I thought they were secured like rivets.
*If they do screw in then that's an easy fix. Loctite as suggested above.
*If they do screw in then that's an easy fix. Loctite as suggested above.
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
From here... http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/discus_e/messages/2/91305.html
[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]AFAIK the strap lugs on M2 and M3 are attached with screws on the inside. The M6 and later on lugs are attached with some kind of rivet-like fastener. I'm not sure about M4-2 and M4-P but they both have the steel lugs used on the M6 so I thought they were riveted too. I've never personally seen a Leica with a loose strap lug, but I have seen plenty of M4 and before ones with the lug holes worn to ovals and nearly worn through. [/FONT]
[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]AFAIK the strap lugs on M2 and M3 are attached with screws on the inside. The M6 and later on lugs are attached with some kind of rivet-like fastener. I'm not sure about M4-2 and M4-P but they both have the steel lugs used on the M6 so I thought they were riveted too. I've never personally seen a Leica with a loose strap lug, but I have seen plenty of M4 and before ones with the lug holes worn to ovals and nearly worn through. [/FONT]
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
More info... Just checked my M3 (1966) and M4-P.
Both have strap lugs that are secured by mushrooming the inner part of the lug...
Maybe the earlier M3s have screws.
Both have strap lugs that are secured by mushrooming the inner part of the lug...
Maybe the earlier M3s have screws.
mooge
Well-known
they're riveted in, not screwed in. that's why they rotate sometimes.
I think you can get them replaced with the newer steel ones somewhere... it shouldn't cost too much, but it's probably not worth the time away if it's nothing serious.
I think you can get them replaced with the newer steel ones somewhere... it shouldn't cost too much, but it's probably not worth the time away if it's nothing serious.
CSG123
Established
This thread made me look at my recently acquired M4's lugs and they definitely appear to be worn at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. The question is, what is too worn? Can anyone post some images of severe wear (as I have no idea what new lugs on an M4 looked like)? When do they *need* to be replaced? Is the outer edge normally thinner? The holes appear to be round in mine and not ovaled but the lugs have significantly more metal on the top and bottom of the lugs.
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mooge
Well-known
they need to be replaced before they break
the side of the strap lug (at the extreme right/left of the camera) us a bit thinner than the top or bottom of the strap lug.
the brass strap lugs (the 'weak' ones on the M2,3,4, I think) are chrome plated, if the chrome is still there, there is no wear.
when the top of the strap lug looks thin and worn, or the strap lug rotates with ease, then you can start to worry.
if you're worried about wearing your strap lugs through, you can use a shoelace strap (thread both ends through, tie the laces together, pull the knot against the lug). then you have to worry about the strap breaking. Shoelaces are actually pretty strong...
cheers.
the side of the strap lug (at the extreme right/left of the camera) us a bit thinner than the top or bottom of the strap lug.
the brass strap lugs (the 'weak' ones on the M2,3,4, I think) are chrome plated, if the chrome is still there, there is no wear.
when the top of the strap lug looks thin and worn, or the strap lug rotates with ease, then you can start to worry.
if you're worried about wearing your strap lugs through, you can use a shoelace strap (thread both ends through, tie the laces together, pull the knot against the lug). then you have to worry about the strap breaking. Shoelaces are actually pretty strong...
cheers.
CSG123
Established
Well, there's definite brassing on the inside of the lugs but it's a bit interesting the metal wear would seem to be on the outer edges (9and 3) rather than the upper edges. There's plenty of metal there.
I'd love to see a closeup of lugs in very good and very poor shape to understand where mine fit in.
I'd love to see a closeup of lugs in very good and very poor shape to understand where mine fit in.
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Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
the lugs on my 1955 M3 are in great shape, but I already shipped off my digital.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The lugs are held in place by an expanding rivet. The stock lug is a 3mm diameter rivet end. When they are replaced, the hole is bored out to 4 mm to take care of the wear from rotating lugs. It requires a special tool and the outside shell has to be taken off. Not a big job - but it is nice to know that they are held in tight.
I have had strap-lugs fail, particularly the older, brass ones on black M2/M3's as they can literally be pulled through the shell. This happens usually with a heavy lens (Noctilux, the old 90f2 etc) There is a lot of stress on that 3 mm fastener. The brass one could also wear out in the "bore" for the strap attachment, but at least that you could see them wear thin at the top.
When in doubt, have them replaced. In the end it is cheaper than having the camera/lens landing on the sidewalk.
Some of the camera straps also have clips on them that prevents the d-ring from turning freely and acts as a lever. This can put sufficient torque on the lug to turn it.
I have had strap-lugs fail, particularly the older, brass ones on black M2/M3's as they can literally be pulled through the shell. This happens usually with a heavy lens (Noctilux, the old 90f2 etc) There is a lot of stress on that 3 mm fastener. The brass one could also wear out in the "bore" for the strap attachment, but at least that you could see them wear thin at the top.
When in doubt, have them replaced. In the end it is cheaper than having the camera/lens landing on the sidewalk.
Some of the camera straps also have clips on them that prevents the d-ring from turning freely and acts as a lever. This can put sufficient torque on the lug to turn it.
JOE1951
Established
I concur with Tom
My "new to me" M4-P had a rotating lug on the film advance side of camera that eventually did work itself out. Luckily I was holding the camera when it happened, but it fogged the film I had shot.
It was my motivation to get the camera CLA'ed.
My "new to me" M4-P had a rotating lug on the film advance side of camera that eventually did work itself out. Luckily I was holding the camera when it happened, but it fogged the film I had shot.
It was my motivation to get the camera CLA'ed.