Stuck tripod bush adapter : (

D

Davidhel

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Hi folks

The picture says it all. The camera came to me this way and this tripod bush adapter is determined to never leave this camera!

Here's what I've tried..

Gently tapping with a hammer and screw driver in the remaining slot.. but I'm not getting the slightest movement. To help things along I've tried Watch oil / acetone (in case it was glued) and WD40.... but nothing...

Can anyone give me any more ideas?

Thanks so much in advance for any help offered!!


IMG_9728 by David Helmore, on Flickr
 
Thanks - not tried that, so will give it a go a bit later

Im thinking a hair drier for the heat and then the ice?
 
A last ditch effort might be RED locktite on a 1/4 x 20 bolt, thread it into the bushing and let it set up for a day. DO NOT PUT ON TOO MUCH. Use the bolt to attempt to unthread the bushing.

Another thought is to put a nut on a 1/4 x 20 x 3/4 or longer bolt. Thread the bolt into the hole, tighten the nut down against the bushing and then try unscrewing the bolt with the bushing attached. Another last ditch effort, but not recommended would be an easy-out of the appropriate size.

Possibly put a bolt in the freezer and get it cold then install in the threaded bush, allow the bolt to cool the insert then try removing the bushing. Possibly a couple of attempts on the cooling might do the job better.
Lots of ideas, but I am not in your shoes. Good luck.
 
Davidhel said:
Thanks - not tried that, so will give it a go a bit later

Im thinking a hair drier for the heat and then the ice?
Click to expand...
Hair dryer isn't enough heat. Use a soldering iron at the very least. Or a tea candle or good Zippo lighter or even a gas stove. Before you heat it, put a long steel or brass 1/4 x 20 bolt in the freezer. After you get that bolt cold, do the heating then screw the bolt into the adapter. Then try to tap the adapter out. If that doesn't work, drill it out.
EDIT: Don't heat the adapter, heat around it with the soldering iron, then cool the adapter.
Phil Forrest
 
One other option (if I can describe it!) would be to fit a narrow faced sleeve onto the bolt, with a nut put on first. Thread the bolt into the adapter and use two wrenches to tighten the nut onto the sleeve, jamming it against the adapter. Finally, try and use a wrench on the bolt to then free the adapter. This would put a lot more torque onto the adapter, then trying to use what now looks to be a mangled screwdriver slot. Just sayin ….
 
Thanks all - will have another go at this over the coming days and let you know if I'm successful!

Worst case scenario is that I can just level it out and make do with the smaller tripod bush - the main reason I'm tackling this is that the camera won't sit flat when not in use as the bush adapter doesn't sit flush with the surface....
 
Mark J said:
A last ditch effort might be RED locktite on a 1/4 x 20 bolt, thread it into the bushing and let it set up for a day. DO NOT PUT ON TOO MUCH. Use the bolt to attempt to unthread the bushing.

Another thought is to put a nut on a 1/4 x 20 x 3/4 or longer bolt. Thread the bolt into the hole, tighten the nut down against the bushing and then try unscrewing the bolt with the bushing attached. Another last ditch effort, but not recommended would be an easy-out of the appropriate size.

Possibly put a bolt in the freezer and get it cold then install in the threaded bush, allow the bolt to cool the insert then try removing the bushing. Possibly a couple of attempts on the cooling might do the job better.
Lots of ideas, but I am not in your shoes. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Definitely worth a try prior to getting out your drill bits. It might just work. Absolutely don't use too much. Last thing you want is excess creeping between the cover and adapter threads. That said—use a toothpick or similar to ensure the bolt threads have a very light but evenly distributed layer of Loctite, and give it plenty of time to cure.

If that doesn't work and heat is unsuccessful you'll probably have to drill it out with a hand drill or drill press.
 
Man that's a tough one. All good suggestions above.

Also, be careful not to distort the base-plate as you attempt to back out the bushing.

Just curious, any reason to not just leave the bushing in place?

Best of luck.
 
Davidhel said:
Worst case scenario is that I can just level it out and make do with the smaller tripod bush - the main reason I'm tackling this is that the camera won't sit flat when not in use as the bush adapter doesn't sit flush with the surface....
Click to expand...

The safest thing is to grind down the bushing, given that basic methods are not working. Unless you must have a 3/8" threading.

And possible bonus- grinding will apply both vibration and heat and the bushing might let go in the process. Put a stone ball on a Dremel and see if it will spin it free.
 
Question: is the insert made of a steel?

If so, I have a never-fail method. Also works on cars with 90-yr old frozen bolts too. I learned this one whilst working restoring vintage cars in the UK.

(1) De-grease item to be removed. Alloy solvent to dry/evaporate.

(2) Heat the steel bush (bolt) ONLY to cherry-red colour. DO NOT HEAT the metal of the baseplate surrounding the stuck bush. You need a gas torch with a very small flame and a steady hand. A propane torch may work in this case as it's such a small item.

(3) As bush (bolt) cools down spray WD-40 or CRC-5-56 on it. A good soaking.

What you are doing is firstly breaking the corrosion bond between the bush or bolt with heat relying on differential expansion of dissimilar metals. As the item cools oil can be introduced into the gap between the metals. It is essential to use one of the fluids mentioned as they contain "oil of wintergreen" as their active ingredient.

Good luck!
 
What camera is it?
Someone may have a parts camera, and could give you a another base plate.

I would try using a screw extractor (EZ Out) after putting a few drops of Knock'er Loose on it.
 
You could try tightening it a little and then trying to unscrew it. In your shoes I'd also try and repair (with a file) the screw slots before unscrewing.


Regards, David
 
A “left-hand” drill bit of the appropriate size should spin in out. Available at most any automotive parts store. Put it in your drill, set drill to reverse spin.
 
There is a product over here (USA) called Liquid Wrench that might work.

Another thing I've found is that tightening it and then try unscrewing it. You should make sure the angle of your screwdriver is 90 degrees trying to get as much contact between the blade and the adapter.

Make sure the screwdriver blade just fits into the slot in the adapter. If yours isn't thick enough try to find a gunsmith in the area. They might have the right size blade. Also, they are used to dealing with stuck screws too.

The key is breaking the bond between the 3/8 and the adapter. That's why tightening first sometimes work best.

I'm no more a fan of heating and cooling than I am using an impact-wrench and a heavy hammer, though both might work.

B2 (;->
 
Before doing anything drastic mechanically to it, try dripping some candle wax on/into the outer threads of the bushing.
You might be surprised how easily it will come out then.
 
If that were mine, I'd probably try an easy out or a reverse drill bit first. Reverse drill bits nearly always work on things like this. Another way would be to epoxy a short bolt into it. Don't get any epoxy outside the area between the bolt and the threads but even if you do it isn't a big deal. Epoxy is reversible with not a lot of heat. Since you have an edge you could also use a chisel to catch the edge and tap it out with light blows with a small hammer. Careful though. You'd need to hold the baseplate firmly in a vice without distorting it and use a sharp chisel, not a screwdriver or something else.

If you know a machinist he can put it in a drill press and gradually drill out the bushing, then pick out the threads, then chase the threads to clean them and it will be fixed right.

If you don't have tools and want to do it yourself, the method of epoxying a bolt into it would be the easiest.

Hope that helps you and good luck!
 
"Mark J and Plummerl" both have good suggestions , however I'd probably forget the loctite method . I have a set of screw extractors designed for shallow studs , but that would be a pricey ship it here and back last resort . Good luck , I spent much of my working life doing this very thing on motorcycles :( , Peter
 
If it annoys/irritates when it wobbles the hassle free answer is a bit of electricians tape across the width of the base plate at the other end. Little chance of damaging anything and out of sight is out of mind; I mean how often do we look at base plates?


Regards, David
 
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