jesse1dog
Light Catcher
Just received a rather nice Summitar lens - coated, 10 blade variety - 1949 I think. Its easy enough the pull-out and collapse but stiff to lock into place and subsequently unlock. I can't see an easy or simple solution but others must have had this issue. Sympathy and help would be much appreciated.
Probably the inner felt lining is bad. Unless you are very experienced with repairing a Summitar, have Youxin Ye or someone that has experience repairing the lens take a look.
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
Nice idea but lens moves in and out quite reasonably - its the twisting to lock and unlock that is so difficult - thank you for yur thoughts and suggestion.
Check that the rear flanges are lining up with the slot, and the collar around it is properly in place. There is an internal guide screw that allows the barrel to move in and out without turning until the flanges are ready to be twisted into place. The flanges must be up tight, ready to lock. On my lens, the internal felt was in bad condition and was jamming up the lens, and it was coming up slightly short of full extension. Unless the rear flange ring is perfectly in place, the lens will not turn.
The
The
enasniearth
Well-known
this is a wartime summitar but your lens mechanics are the same
the first picture shows the lens extended but not locked in -
check for dirt or lint on these parts
the second is the back collapsed - there are three spring like locking tabs
are they bent outward or deformed
the third shows this from the side - you can see the tabs they are bent up
to provide spring pressure - make sure the groove for the locating pin
shown below the tabs is clean
mine locks in firm - that helps to keep the lens from unlocking when setting the aperture
the first picture shows the lens extended but not locked in -
check for dirt or lint on these parts
the second is the back collapsed - there are three spring like locking tabs
are they bent outward or deformed
the third shows this from the side - you can see the tabs they are bent up
to provide spring pressure - make sure the groove for the locating pin
shown below the tabs is clean
mine locks in firm - that helps to keep the lens from unlocking when setting the aperture
Attachments
enasniearth
Well-known
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
Thank you - the felt situation was my first thought too but as the lens extends reasonably easily I discounted that and wondered about the brass tabs. I'm getting out a better magnifying glass and intend to do some more careful cleaning.
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
Very helpful and what I expected was the basic issue - those three brass tabs and possibly that slot. The last picture was particularly useful because it clearly shows the profile of the tabs. So I'll use a better magnifying glass to do a more careful check on mine.
I'll probably screw a 42mm ring on the lens, attach my helicoid and then that to my m4/3 camera. Unless I want to get nearly macro, I'll use the lens collapsed and focus with the helicoid - infinity to much closer than the lens 1m. Nevertheless I would like the lens to move and lock as it should do. Thank you.
Ororaro
Well-known
It sounds like it is gummed. This happens a lot on those old lenses.
Basically IMO, at this point in time, ALL collapsible Leicas need a CLA overhaul. The results make it a night and day difference. Going from stiff to silky smooth swift.
Basically IMO, at this point in time, ALL collapsible Leicas need a CLA overhaul. The results make it a night and day difference. Going from stiff to silky smooth swift.
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
You are undoubtedly right about the wisdom of a CLA. Having said that I've adjusted the tabs and the barrel is now easier to twist and lock into place. I'll try the lens on camera and see what results I get before going the CLA way. Thank you for responding.
Ororaro
Well-known
I’ve done a dozen of those in the past year, for my collection as well as friend’s. The difference is always night and day. There’s a lot going on in there, and everything needs improvement: sticky aperture ring, stiff focus, stiff locking mechanism, and the grease has migrated everywhere.
Even the lens elements are always foggy. If your’s don’t seem to be foggy: that’s because they are but in a uniform way.
Agree about the CLA- took three lenses apart after the post last night to clean out haze on the surface after the aperture.
raydm6
Yay! Cameras! 🙈🙉🙊┌( ಠ_ಠ)┘ [◉"]
It’s a nice lens. Hopefully you can post to this thread when things work out.
rangefinderforum.com
Leica LTM - Summitar the star...
If it's ok to post pics from digital, these were shot on my M10 w/1949 Summitar f = 5cm 1:2 LTM 20230114-093029.jpg by Rick McNelly, on Flickr 20230114-093053.jpg by Rick McNelly, on Flickr 20230114-093129.jpg by Rick McNelly, on Flickr 20230114-093543.jpg by Rick McNelly, on Flickr...
rangefinderforum.com
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
I'm beginning to be persuaded to give my Summitar a CLA. I haven't either the manipulative ability or eyesight to have a go myself. Living in GB can anybody give me a recommendation as to who I might approach?
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
In GB the go-to is Skyllaney. They did my collapsible 'cron this summer and it came back in beautiful shape.
peterm1
Veteran
Just as an aside, another common problem with Summitars is that there is a tendency for the aperture ring to become very tight and difficult to operate. This is due to the ingress of dust and dirt under the ring. Fortunately, this is an easy fix (I have had to do it myself.) If it does also occur at any time you may wish to bookmark this video which describes the process.
enasniearth
Well-known
I would shoot some film with it to see before considering a service -
my wartime summitars shoot well - however not in perfect working order
- but im not considering a $150 service for them
if the glass is clean & clear , aperture works well - focus ok
my wartime summitars shoot well - however not in perfect working order
- but im not considering a $150 service for them
if the glass is clean & clear , aperture works well - focus ok
qqphotos
Well-known
The summitar is so delightfully satisfying to operate after properly cleaning and lubricating the helical and aperture ring.
wlewisiii
Just another hotel clerk
The only problem can be if you have an Elmar 50/2.8 like mine with an etched element that even DAG couldn't find a replacement element for. He cleaned it as best he could but it will always be a "pastel" kind of lens:
So while a CLA is almost always warranted, sometimes it can only do so much.
Ororaro
Well-known
The satisfaction of saving even a scratched, ratty, collapsible summicron (summar, summitar, elmar) is immeasurable.
A proper and thorough CLA involves stripping the old grease, cleaning the collapsible tube, the aperture ring, the aperture blades.
Then, cleaning the lens elements: all sides.
Relubing the helicoids, adding needle-drops of oil where needed, reassembling the whole thing, battling with miniature screws, and fine-tuning the focus feel with just enough dampening. The scratched front element becomes unimportant next to the whole general improvement.
All my vintage Leica lenses have been thorougly CLA’d, they are so smooth, an absolute joy to use, even the scratched ones…