DerrickC
Member
Hi,
is there a quick easy set of tests that one can do when buying a new RD1? To test out the rangefinder accuracy, viewfinder alignment, etc in the shop before your buy it.
Appreciate the help.
Derrick
is there a quick easy set of tests that one can do when buying a new RD1? To test out the rangefinder accuracy, viewfinder alignment, etc in the shop before your buy it.
Appreciate the help.
Derrick
pfogle
Well-known
First, you'll need a working battery and a card, which the shop may or may not be willing to supply.
You can check the RF by seeing that the images coincide at infinity when focussing on a distant object (the further the better!). For close focussing you'll need to take some shots, and it's not easy to do a careful check quickly in the shop.
To check the VF alignment, again, you'll need to shoot something and check the playback. I checked mine in the shop by photographing some product shelves and a film fridge. Make sure you're standing square on. Any serious error in the VF frame should be readily apparent on playback. This is only really to check that the framelines are parallel to the captured image, i.e. edges line up ok to the edge of the frame. You can't really get a clear idea of the accuracy of the actual framing from a casual test like this.
Unfortunately, it's not really very easy to check for stuck or dead pixels using this approach. For that you'll have to download the images and look at them at 100% on a computer. You could take a laptop into the shop...
The bottom line is that if the pix look ok, you're probably not going to have problems. Unless the viewfinder is really off (and some are!) then I wouldn't worry too much. You can get too concerned about small errors. I know it's an expensive piece of kit, and I've had problems with mine, but I'm still very happy with it. It's *so* much better than anything else out there that I've come across in the digital world
You can check the RF by seeing that the images coincide at infinity when focussing on a distant object (the further the better!). For close focussing you'll need to take some shots, and it's not easy to do a careful check quickly in the shop.
To check the VF alignment, again, you'll need to shoot something and check the playback. I checked mine in the shop by photographing some product shelves and a film fridge. Make sure you're standing square on. Any serious error in the VF frame should be readily apparent on playback. This is only really to check that the framelines are parallel to the captured image, i.e. edges line up ok to the edge of the frame. You can't really get a clear idea of the accuracy of the actual framing from a casual test like this.
Unfortunately, it's not really very easy to check for stuck or dead pixels using this approach. For that you'll have to download the images and look at them at 100% on a computer. You could take a laptop into the shop...
The bottom line is that if the pix look ok, you're probably not going to have problems. Unless the viewfinder is really off (and some are!) then I wouldn't worry too much. You can get too concerned about small errors. I know it's an expensive piece of kit, and I've had problems with mine, but I'm still very happy with it. It's *so* much better than anything else out there that I've come across in the digital world
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
Derrick,
You can do a rough check for stuck/hot pixels by selecting jpeg H quality on the camera. Select 1600 as the iso speed and take a picture of a mainly dark tone subject. Review the picture on the rear screen and zoom in to the full magnification. Then scroll back and forth across the whole area of the screen (a little tedious). Bad pixels that are likely to show up in prints should be fairly obvious.
Its your call on how many are not acceptable, but expect to see some. See the other threads on Hot Pixels on this.
You can do a rough check for stuck/hot pixels by selecting jpeg H quality on the camera. Select 1600 as the iso speed and take a picture of a mainly dark tone subject. Review the picture on the rear screen and zoom in to the full magnification. Then scroll back and forth across the whole area of the screen (a little tedious). Bad pixels that are likely to show up in prints should be fairly obvious.
Its your call on how many are not acceptable, but expect to see some. See the other threads on Hot Pixels on this.
DerrickC
Member
Thanks for all the information. Am in HK now and went down to Tin Cheung to have a look. They don't allow "testing" of the cameras but allow you to fondle it. Was tempted to buy one together with an epson P2000 but will wait 2 months till the end of my trip to decide. Current quoted price is 19500HKD for the RD1 (with 1 Year HK warranty --> have to mail it back to them if anything is wrong) and 3900HKD for the P2000. Not sure if it will go down a bit if i try bargaining.
They also had the new Zeiss Ikon 28, 35 and 50 lenses. The 28 was quoted at 6800HKD. Hopefully, by the time i return to HK from the mainland in 2 months time the 21mm will be out.
They also had the new Zeiss Ikon 28, 35 and 50 lenses. The 28 was quoted at 6800HKD. Hopefully, by the time i return to HK from the mainland in 2 months time the 21mm will be out.