That bokeh, glowly Leica thingy

Ronald_H

Don't call me Ron
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Feb 24, 2008
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Helmond, The Netherlands
Shot some Tri-X at 1250. Planned to develop it in Diafine. But I haven't used that in months. Solutions still work, sort of, but negs are very thin. Wanted to order new Diafine. Had to look hard for a German supplier who stocks it. Also forgot to filter the crud out, so I'm clicking away at the dust in Photoshop ad nauseam. Almost wished I had shot with digital.

Images weren't too special (I don't trust precious rolls to developer that old) but I am pleased that this shot came out nice. Leica M2 with Summicron DR, Tri-X @ 1250ISO in well used Diafine mixed > 1 year ago, scanned with a Nikon Coolscan V:

Image1669.jpg


Yes, I pushed the contrast a little bit in photoshop.
 
On my monitor it looks like you pushed the contrast a little to much (highlights !) but the photo came out very well for the condition you subscribe ! Very nice ! 🙂 The DR Summicron is not bad, right ? 😀
 
I had a second look now being at work and using a different computer, much better. Very nice tones indeed !

Sorry for my first post !

(... it seems I have to adjust the other monitor at home 😱)

Gabor
 
So I have been shooting some of the Arista Premium B+W 400 that is supposed to be tri-x, and Im pushing it to 1600..is diafine the best developer? and how long of times should I use..
 
(... it seems I have to adjust the other monitor at home 😱)

Thus, my biggest dislike of internet sharing vs actual prints. Monitor calibration between everyone can have way worse effects on an image tonality then differences in natural/artifical lighting.

Not that many non-photographers actually ever notice. 😉
 
So I have been shooting some of the Arista Premium B+W 400 that is supposed to be tri-x, and Im pushing it to 1600..is diafine the best developer? and how long of times should I use..

There is no one "best" developer. Different people swear by different developers: HC-110, Diafine, D76, XTOL, Rodinal, etc. It depends on the look your after, the level of control you want and how much money your willing to spend.

Diafine is cheap and easy to use but you relinquish some control. You can't push or pull film in diafine simply by adjusting the developing time. Most films (I believe accept Fuji Acros 100) will develop in three minutes in each bath. Longer development will do nothing.

Many RFF'ers shoot Tri-x or Arista Premium @ 1250 in diafine with good results.

I use HC-110 for my Arista Premium @1600 and it's my favorite combo.

Try finding some B&W pictures on the internet (try Flickr) that you like and use whatever combination of film/developer they were created with.
 
Great shot Ronald. And good lab work on it also! I believe the subject is your other hobby, isn't it? Is that your "kever"? and did it win those prices?
 
Hi all,

To be honest I did not even calibrate my new LCD monitor yet... still planning to borrow some stuff from a colleague to do that. I just played with curves to get what looks best. I was indeed after that smooth, creamy transition into white.

My previous monitor was a hugely expensive professional CRT monitor, and it was calibrated. Alas, it wore out 🙁

And Huub, yes I love air cooled Volkswagens, ever since my stepdad used to borrow one from work for our weekend trips when I was about 6 years old! I don't own one though, but photographing them is the next best thing. The prizes were not for the 'Kever' (Dutch for Beetle), the Beetle WAS the prize! The stuff you see in the foreground was for 'best of show' in several categories, but the Beetle could be won by lottery. Sadly, I didn't win 🙁
 
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