jonasv
has no mustache
I'm in urgent need of some advice - I've put myself in quite an awkward situation!
I need to do an improvised ("studio" - sort of) portrait shoot tonight - only two hours from now. I will be shooting at least two or three rolls of film. I want to use the same film + developer combination for all the shots. I can't use my usual combination for portraits, Microphen + Delta 100 as I ran out of Microphen and have only one roll of Delta left.
I've no choice but to use Tmax 100 + Tmax developer, and I've never used either one before. I was hoping the helpfull bunch at RFF could give me some pointers. I'm a bit worried and nervous because I've always heard Tmax was one of the finickier films to develop, and often there would be too much contrast. I have the following questions:
a) what ISO to shoot it at for optimum results - 50, 64, 80, 100?
b) the optimum dilution/time/temperature to keep development and contrast under control? (for the ISO recommended - 50, 64, 80 or 100)
c) same question as b) but for ISO 200? (in case I need to push - I don't have studiostrobes, and my one construction light might not suffice)
d) how stupid am I to be so badly prepared?!
Usually I try the combinations in advance and shoot a lot of testrolls before using it for something important, I don't have that luxury now. My experience with the correctness of Massive Dev Chart information has been less than pleasing, and while I wouldn't mind as much if I were developing Tri-X, I would like exact dilutions/temperatures/times that others can vouch for because Tmax isn't as forgiving.
Other than the Tmax I have some Rodinal, one roll of Delta, one roll of Pan F, one roll of Efke KB25, two rolls of Efke KB100 and various stuff that isn't suited to studio portrait at all (Lucky 400, HIE, some color negative and slide films, ..). I would shoot Efke KB100 + Rodinal if I had more than two rolls of it, alas I don't.
If it works out, I'll post some photos tomorrow - even though it'll be shot on an SLR.
Thanks a bunch!
I need to do an improvised ("studio" - sort of) portrait shoot tonight - only two hours from now. I will be shooting at least two or three rolls of film. I want to use the same film + developer combination for all the shots. I can't use my usual combination for portraits, Microphen + Delta 100 as I ran out of Microphen and have only one roll of Delta left.
I've no choice but to use Tmax 100 + Tmax developer, and I've never used either one before. I was hoping the helpfull bunch at RFF could give me some pointers. I'm a bit worried and nervous because I've always heard Tmax was one of the finickier films to develop, and often there would be too much contrast. I have the following questions:
a) what ISO to shoot it at for optimum results - 50, 64, 80, 100?
b) the optimum dilution/time/temperature to keep development and contrast under control? (for the ISO recommended - 50, 64, 80 or 100)
c) same question as b) but for ISO 200? (in case I need to push - I don't have studiostrobes, and my one construction light might not suffice)
d) how stupid am I to be so badly prepared?!
Usually I try the combinations in advance and shoot a lot of testrolls before using it for something important, I don't have that luxury now. My experience with the correctness of Massive Dev Chart information has been less than pleasing, and while I wouldn't mind as much if I were developing Tri-X, I would like exact dilutions/temperatures/times that others can vouch for because Tmax isn't as forgiving.
Other than the Tmax I have some Rodinal, one roll of Delta, one roll of Pan F, one roll of Efke KB25, two rolls of Efke KB100 and various stuff that isn't suited to studio portrait at all (Lucky 400, HIE, some color negative and slide films, ..). I would shoot Efke KB100 + Rodinal if I had more than two rolls of it, alas I don't.
If it works out, I'll post some photos tomorrow - even though it'll be shot on an SLR.
Thanks a bunch!
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
There's no way you can run out and get a package of D76? I used D76 with my TMX film...I've never used the TMAX developer.
Perhaps TMX in Rodinal. Dunno, though. Just did some quick research and I found this. May be of help.
Perhaps TMX in Rodinal. Dunno, though. Just did some quick research and I found this. May be of help.
jonasv
has no mustache
Nope, unfortunately the shops are closed already. Given the possible combinations, Tmax+Tmax seemed logical and I hadn't really thought of using the Rodinal yet, but the Tmax+Rodinal sounds interesting especially with that link providing lot's of information.
Apparently (according to that link) Tmax in Rodinal becomes contrastier when pulling, and less contrasty when pushing. Can anyone confirm this? This would be quite nice, I could shoot it at 160 then and soup in rodinal.
Thanks for the help Stephanie!
Apparently (according to that link) Tmax in Rodinal becomes contrastier when pulling, and less contrasty when pushing. Can anyone confirm this? This would be quite nice, I could shoot it at 160 then and soup in rodinal.
Thanks for the help Stephanie!
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
If I HAD my Rodinal yet I could try and confirm this, but alas...and working in less than an hour and a half wouldn't give me time to do the testing. So I would test it out (IE shoot a short roll and then dunk it) before you actually use it...or risk it. If you go by the dilution/time/speed on that site I don't know why you wouldn't get the results you want.
the_other_dirk
Member
Hi jvx,
why not wait until tomorrow to develop?
I'm in Belgium (Leuven area), and have some X-tol, D76 and Rodinal. Also some DDX (new bottle, never opened). Maybe some other stuff, don't know. If you really need to, pop around, I'll be home around 7pm (PM me). All except the DDX will be free of charge (I'm not giving them away, just enough for you to soup your three films, I still use these developers!!).
I used to shoot Tmax 100 at 64, then develop in X-tol, never had any problems with blown out highlights (7 minutes or so at 20°C). I'm not sure it's a good film for portrait, I liked it for landscape.
Dirk
why not wait until tomorrow to develop?
I'm in Belgium (Leuven area), and have some X-tol, D76 and Rodinal. Also some DDX (new bottle, never opened). Maybe some other stuff, don't know. If you really need to, pop around, I'll be home around 7pm (PM me). All except the DDX will be free of charge
(I'm not giving them away, just enough for you to soup your three films, I still use these developers!!).I used to shoot Tmax 100 at 64, then develop in X-tol, never had any problems with blown out highlights (7 minutes or so at 20°C). I'm not sure it's a good film for portrait, I liked it for landscape.
Dirk
Rick Waldroup
Well-known
If you have the T-Max developer, don't sweat it. There is way too much hype about T-Max being this weird, hard to process film. It has been years since I have shot any, but I would rate the film at exactly 100- follow the developing times that Kodak calls for and you will be fine. I have never seen any problems with too much contrast, in fact, just the contrary, and you might find the tonality range of T-Max rather pleasing. It is a film that looks different but will print just fine. Now if you are scanning, I have no idea. I worked for a magazine years ago in their processing lab and all we used was T-Max 100 and 400, so I shot the film for years because I could get it for free. My biggest gripe about the film was the lack of contrast- not like Tri X or the Neopan 400 I use now. The film has unbelievable latitude- it really is hard to screw it up. It is a little more sensitive to temperature but that is about it. Now there are others out here that absolutely hate this film- but it is not bad at all and you have the perfect developer for it at hand. Good luck and don't worry about it.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Aggghhh the nightmare!!!!
I've never been a fan of TMAX film/developer, but from what I have read:
a) Shooting at 80 or so and developing as 100 should give a nice bump to the skin tones (I'm assuming white people)
b) check digitaltruth, use thir times and try to agitate less often. I see there is a 1+9 dilution, I'd probably use that one to go for the longest tonality.
c) check (b)
d) I'll leave that one for your imagination
I've never been a fan of TMAX film/developer, but from what I have read:
a) Shooting at 80 or so and developing as 100 should give a nice bump to the skin tones (I'm assuming white people)
b) check digitaltruth, use thir times and try to agitate less often. I see there is a 1+9 dilution, I'd probably use that one to go for the longest tonality.
c) check (b)
d) I'll leave that one for your imagination
jonasv
has no mustache
Thanks for the feedback!
I guess I was not only looking for answers, but also for some reassurance - and it worked, I feel less worried now! Develop tomorrow is unfortunately not an option, I need to develop this evening and scan/edit tonight, so I can have prints made tomorrow in the morning (the local lab does a while for big prints, tomorrow afternoon will be too late). I'm participating in a Belgian youth art contest called "Kunstbende" and I have a deadline to make!
A slight lack of microcontrast is a very reassuring thought, I can easily bump it up a bit in photoshop - rather than losing detail because my scanner can't handle too contrasty negatives!
Thanks again, I'll let you know how it went tomorrow in the morning!
I guess I was not only looking for answers, but also for some reassurance - and it worked, I feel less worried now! Develop tomorrow is unfortunately not an option, I need to develop this evening and scan/edit tonight, so I can have prints made tomorrow in the morning (the local lab does a while for big prints, tomorrow afternoon will be too late). I'm participating in a Belgian youth art contest called "Kunstbende" and I have a deadline to make!
A slight lack of microcontrast is a very reassuring thought, I can easily bump it up a bit in photoshop - rather than losing detail because my scanner can't handle too contrasty negatives!
Thanks again, I'll let you know how it went tomorrow in the morning!
jonasv
has no mustache
Thanks again everyone! I shot four rolls, so I'm glad I shot the Tmax and not the Efke. The results were fine, slightly lacking contrast and a bit overdeveloped (even though I followed the exact instructions - and I don't think I ever paid so much attention), but rather than than too contrasty and underdeveloped. I don't think I like the film characteristics a lot (well, not for portraits at least), but it does scan easy - and has superb resolution, I just printed some in the darkroom (the scanned versions already went to the photostore this morning).
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
jvx, the Tmaxes and Deltas are a technological advance over the old school films, however IMHO they lack the "organic" feel of the old emulsions.
I think this is due to the size distribution of the crystals, the old emulsions have a broad distribution of sizes, thus giving it a longer tonal scale and feel. The new films have a very narrow size distribution, thus having the "technical" look which is very hard to describe.
I think this is due to the size distribution of the crystals, the old emulsions have a broad distribution of sizes, thus giving it a longer tonal scale and feel. The new films have a very narrow size distribution, thus having the "technical" look which is very hard to describe.
Mackinaw
Think Different
I don't use TMax 100 much but did shoot a roll this past weekend. I developed it in Rodinal 1 + 50 for 13 minutes at 68F, one minute of initial agitation followed by 5 seconds of agitation every 30 seconds. All of the shots were inside using window light as the main source of illumination. I was happy with the results.
Jim Bielecki
Jim Bielecki