mooge
Well-known
Two terrible do-it-yourself lensboards:
A: the Mark I "Clementine" semi-recessed baby-Linhof to Sinar board
I thought it would be a great joke to make a lensboard out of wood from some clementine crates. I hope you agree it's hilarious, but this was actually a terrible idea - the wood for those crates is flimsy, and leaks light like mad.
I thought I could use plasti-dip (a sort of spray on rubber) to make the wood light-tight, but that didn't work either. So the whole thing was sealed with electrical tape, which isn't really ideal since it gets gooey with age/heat/handling.
The whole purpose of this lens board was for me to use this Angulon 65 on my Sinar to shoot 6x...12? Whether it covers 6x12 or not is another story but I needed to make the board somewhat recessed so that it would work on the Sinar. Hence, I've attached the Linhof board to the back of the lensboard. A notch had to be cut out for the shutter release cable too. Note that it was easier for me to make this adapter board so I wouldn't have to figure out a shutter release mechanism (threaded bit for cable release is part of the board!).
The linhof board is held on with strips of carbon fibre (from the sheet that I made that became the dash and side panels of our RR14 race car) bolted in with Meccano. in theory you can use the board with other Linhof lens boards but changing isn't so simple if you have to redo alot of the tape.
B: The Mark II Stainless lens board
This is just a board with a hole, for a Wollensak Oscillo-Anastigmat I got from a lab. The lens covers 6x6 or maybe 6x7 at infinity; judging by its name, it was meant to be a close-up lens for taking photos of oscilloscope traces. The overhaul of the Alphax shutter was one of the most satisfying things I've done lately, as the shutter was rusted shut when I first got it, and now it almost looks as new (maybe I'll write about that some day).
I'm pretty sure the material is stainless steel, as it took me something ridiculous like 2 hours to cut the hole with a cordless drill and a dremel tool (which means it's not aluminum), and it's not magnetic. This material was race car scrap as well.
The back was sprayed with black paint very crudely (it's gloss, too, because that's what I had) and the sides are bent in slightly to help seal against light leaks. All edges are taped with electrical tape.
So yeah, if you have random lenses and a large-format camera, it's pretty easy to make terrible lens boards to match them uo together. Planarity? Concentricity? just make it up in the movements. (that's what they're for, right?)
A: the Mark I "Clementine" semi-recessed baby-Linhof to Sinar board
I thought it would be a great joke to make a lensboard out of wood from some clementine crates. I hope you agree it's hilarious, but this was actually a terrible idea - the wood for those crates is flimsy, and leaks light like mad.
I thought I could use plasti-dip (a sort of spray on rubber) to make the wood light-tight, but that didn't work either. So the whole thing was sealed with electrical tape, which isn't really ideal since it gets gooey with age/heat/handling.
The whole purpose of this lens board was for me to use this Angulon 65 on my Sinar to shoot 6x...12? Whether it covers 6x12 or not is another story but I needed to make the board somewhat recessed so that it would work on the Sinar. Hence, I've attached the Linhof board to the back of the lensboard. A notch had to be cut out for the shutter release cable too. Note that it was easier for me to make this adapter board so I wouldn't have to figure out a shutter release mechanism (threaded bit for cable release is part of the board!).
The linhof board is held on with strips of carbon fibre (from the sheet that I made that became the dash and side panels of our RR14 race car) bolted in with Meccano. in theory you can use the board with other Linhof lens boards but changing isn't so simple if you have to redo alot of the tape.
B: The Mark II Stainless lens board
This is just a board with a hole, for a Wollensak Oscillo-Anastigmat I got from a lab. The lens covers 6x6 or maybe 6x7 at infinity; judging by its name, it was meant to be a close-up lens for taking photos of oscilloscope traces. The overhaul of the Alphax shutter was one of the most satisfying things I've done lately, as the shutter was rusted shut when I first got it, and now it almost looks as new (maybe I'll write about that some day).
I'm pretty sure the material is stainless steel, as it took me something ridiculous like 2 hours to cut the hole with a cordless drill and a dremel tool (which means it's not aluminum), and it's not magnetic. This material was race car scrap as well.
The back was sprayed with black paint very crudely (it's gloss, too, because that's what I had) and the sides are bent in slightly to help seal against light leaks. All edges are taped with electrical tape.
So yeah, if you have random lenses and a large-format camera, it's pretty easy to make terrible lens boards to match them uo together. Planarity? Concentricity? just make it up in the movements. (that's what they're for, right?)