eartweeker
Member
News at 11!! Doi. I guess I should've figured- but I would like some definition, some contrast to start with- I can go vintage easy enough in Photo Shop. This camera seems to be interested in catching every air molecule in-between! Any thoughts? Is it lens haze? It looks nice & clean. bellows leak? I did the flashlight thing. No leaks.
Ilford 125 SP home developed with Ilford S- scanned at work on finest setting-
600 X 600 dpi
A Konica Minolta muti-use copier/ scan/ fax
I'm hoping its the scanner.
Ilford 125 SP home developed with Ilford S- scanned at work on finest setting-
600 X 600 dpi
A Konica Minolta muti-use copier/ scan/ fax
I'm hoping its the scanner.
Attachments
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
It looks more out of focus than anything else.
kuzano
Veteran
I'd concur on focus.... My Voigtlander is
I'd concur on focus.... My Voigtlander is
running low on the battery apparently, and the autofocus seems to be malfunctioning. It's a prewar Bessa, and I cannot, for the life of me, find the battery compartment. So, I guess when the battery finally dies, I am just going to have to settle for out of focus shots. One of the saving graces seems to be that it's malfunctioning on the side of infinity, so if I just shoot landscapes, some portion of the picture will be in focus. I guess that's OK. (I think the battery also runs the Autoexposure, since the exposure seems to be a little off over time).
Anyone have a manual that shows where the battery compartment is and the type of battery? My factory manual does not seem to cover that function of the camera.
I'd concur on focus.... My Voigtlander is
running low on the battery apparently, and the autofocus seems to be malfunctioning. It's a prewar Bessa, and I cannot, for the life of me, find the battery compartment. So, I guess when the battery finally dies, I am just going to have to settle for out of focus shots. One of the saving graces seems to be that it's malfunctioning on the side of infinity, so if I just shoot landscapes, some portion of the picture will be in focus. I guess that's OK. (I think the battery also runs the Autoexposure, since the exposure seems to be a little off over time).
Anyone have a manual that shows where the battery compartment is and the type of battery? My factory manual does not seem to cover that function of the camera.
eartweeker
Member
I might have an extra charging cable for you somewhere...
VictorM.
Well-known
Looks like the focus needs adjusting and the film may need more development (contrast). Also, folders often won't focus accurately at both the closest distance and the mid- to far-distances.
bsdunek
Old Guy with a Corgi
Looks like a combination of an uncoated lens and, as VictorM said, the film needs more development to increase contrast.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
agreed on the development - the contrast between the frame numbers and the film edge look as low contrast as the image - and that shouldn't be the case.
eartweeker
Member
Ilford is recommending 9.5 minutes at 1:14 for their 125 (from their website) what should I add? 1-2 minutes??
Thanks
Thanks
1948nikon
Established
Contrast ! Check Paper.
Contrast ! Check Paper.
Judging by the contrast of the frame number and the overall image it is a little low in contrast and not that much underdeveloped as you can still see plenty of details in the image.
I know you said that you developed the film yourself but did you print this yourself or send out to a lab. This film should print up fine on higher contrast paper . Bromide paper is usually graded 1-2-3-4 or from soft medium hard or extra hard. Soft being low contrast and extra hard being stark black and white.
If your paper is the Multigrade type you can increase or decrese contrast with the dedicated set of filters.
Hope this helps.
Contrast ! Check Paper.
eartweeker said:
Judging by the contrast of the frame number and the overall image it is a little low in contrast and not that much underdeveloped as you can still see plenty of details in the image.
I know you said that you developed the film yourself but did you print this yourself or send out to a lab. This film should print up fine on higher contrast paper . Bromide paper is usually graded 1-2-3-4 or from soft medium hard or extra hard. Soft being low contrast and extra hard being stark black and white.
If your paper is the Multigrade type you can increase or decrese contrast with the dedicated set of filters.
Hope this helps.
1948nikon
Established
eartweeker
Member
Nice. no I develope the negs in my bathroom & bring to work & scan them- tweek in PhotoShop best I can- but I seem to start with this overall not contrasty hazy neg. & force to get to a sharp contrast.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Out of focus and underdeveloped - or did the dog just lick the lens?
1948nikon
Established
Run me through your process.eartweeker said:
Temp of dev?
Stop bath or rinse?
Fixing time and temp?
Washing etc?
The detail appears to be in the negs so development seems correct, just this lack of contrast which I am thinking is caused by chemicl fog.
Drastic variations between dev and fix can cause this among other steps in the process.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
eartweeker said:
What do the negatives look like?
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
scanning problems sounds like it could be part of the problem - ie. not having a clean black and white point. That would give you very flat scans.
But honestly there are so many things it *could* be - without being there to see for ourselves, it's a bit tricky to diagnose.
But honestly there are so many things it *could* be - without being there to see for ourselves, it's a bit tricky to diagnose.
eartweeker
Member
1948nikon said:
Ilford S at 1:14 mix 68 degrees/ 9.5 minutes (invert & shake every 2-3 minutes)
Ilfostop 10 seconds (probably more as it takes 5 secs. to pour out!)
Fix 3 minutes at 68 degrees (invert & shake once) also an Ilford product.
Water rinse 5-10 minutes
Drops of photoflo at the end- hang up
Negs look like they are hazy- atmospheric/ & printed on linen fabric!
Initially I thought i was too rough with the negative -spooling onto the reels this time I was very careful- spooled right from the paper backing- but I still feed against my finger tips- sorting the neg onto the spool. Does anyone/ everyone use those cotton gloves?
Also- there is a lighted rocker switch in the bathroom-(darkroom) but I lean around a tile wall so it is not in the direct path of my operations.
Thanks for your help
Tim
eartweeker
Member
Leigh Youdale said:
Talk about coated/ uncoated lens' !!
Ha
MRohlfing
Well-known
kuzano said:
Do not bother looking for the battery. Just test the shutter, if it works and the times are approximately correct, the battery is okay!
My mother bought her Bessa in 1949 and until she sold it in the late seventies, she had never changed the battery!!
Michael
eartweeker
Member
ah the days before planned obsolesense!
1948nikon
Established
Process
Process
All your processing technique seems to be ok except I would do a 20- 30 sec rinse of clean water between the stop bath and fixer. Also advise checking time on the Ilford fixer that you are using . Paper I usually fix for 2-3 minutes and film around ten minutes. Also check that the fixer is the one with a hardener built in. The one without hardener is usually for paper.
You also mention about the light switch indicator this is a potential area for fogging as most b and w films are panchromatic and are sensetive to wide bandwith of light wavelength.
GOLDEN RULE 1--- THE FILM SHOULD BE LOADED INTO THE TANK IN PITCH
BLACKNESS.
GOLDEN RULE 2---BUY A DARKROOM CHANGING BAG.
Don,t worry about the comments relating to sharpness lets get the development side done first.
Keep shooting.
Process
eartweeker said:
All your processing technique seems to be ok except I would do a 20- 30 sec rinse of clean water between the stop bath and fixer. Also advise checking time on the Ilford fixer that you are using . Paper I usually fix for 2-3 minutes and film around ten minutes. Also check that the fixer is the one with a hardener built in. The one without hardener is usually for paper.
You also mention about the light switch indicator this is a potential area for fogging as most b and w films are panchromatic and are sensetive to wide bandwith of light wavelength.
GOLDEN RULE 1--- THE FILM SHOULD BE LOADED INTO THE TANK IN PITCH
BLACKNESS.
GOLDEN RULE 2---BUY A DARKROOM CHANGING BAG.
Don,t worry about the comments relating to sharpness lets get the development side done first.
Keep shooting.