jc031699
Established
End of winter break with the kids, have a few days before return to the working world...
Got myself warmed up with a few projects: cleaning oil from aperture blades of a Industar-61 (involved slotting a new headless screw for the 1.7mm screw that positions the optical unit in the focus mount (!), to fix a previously broken screw head); cleaning fungus and haze from a new Topcon-S 50/2 LTM; Sharpie "blueing" of the aperture blades of a Helios-103 a' la Brian Sweeney.
(I was surprised to see that my Helios 103 has two layers of blades, I think it is a later version that has the larger "baffle" on the rear optical unit which I had to file down to use my Kevin Yang-supplied 3d printed LTM focus mount.)
Got a "bargain" lyre-shaped VIOOH from KEH, in addition to a Voigtlander Turnit-3 and a couple of Komura brightline finders (35, 135, cheap!). The VIOOH was dark and unimpressive, began the process to return to KEH. Then decided to give a CLA a whirl, I was super lucky to stumble on a legacy document by Mr. Jerzy Wasowicz. Thank you sir: It was perfect for my needs. Thank god for the internet. Attached below, for safekeeping.
A few things I noted:
1) It cleaned up great. Even though there was some "haze" on the prism, it looks clear and bright.
2) The construction is absolutely incredible for the era. There are steel screws, brass screws, chromed brass screws, every set of screws is different and specified for its purpose. Brass and steel parts, etc. I felt like I was working on a clock or watch.
3) The optics are quite simple aside from the prism. There are essentially 3 lens "sets" that are each addressed as a single unit.
4) It helps to make a scratch around the base of the prism assembly to mark its orientation in the lyre/body, to ease realignment upon assembly.
5) A bit of care on reassembly - the rotating ring should be lubricated at the spring / detents. The two tiny screws on the front ring are to fix the position of the front ring on the nose. The side screw on the front ring is to fix its relative position with the focal length scale. Lubricating the interface between the front ring and the focal length scale ring makes it easier to hold the focal length scale ring in place while screwing the front ring in until the "side screw" holes align between the two. The retaining ring (placed with lens spanner) holds the "nose assembly" to the lyre / body, and the small set screw is to secure the rotation of the nose assembly on the body. I tightened the retaining ring most of the way before placing the small set screw, to avoid overstressing it upon tightening the retaining ring.
Cheers!
Got myself warmed up with a few projects: cleaning oil from aperture blades of a Industar-61 (involved slotting a new headless screw for the 1.7mm screw that positions the optical unit in the focus mount (!), to fix a previously broken screw head); cleaning fungus and haze from a new Topcon-S 50/2 LTM; Sharpie "blueing" of the aperture blades of a Helios-103 a' la Brian Sweeney.
(I was surprised to see that my Helios 103 has two layers of blades, I think it is a later version that has the larger "baffle" on the rear optical unit which I had to file down to use my Kevin Yang-supplied 3d printed LTM focus mount.)
Got a "bargain" lyre-shaped VIOOH from KEH, in addition to a Voigtlander Turnit-3 and a couple of Komura brightline finders (35, 135, cheap!). The VIOOH was dark and unimpressive, began the process to return to KEH. Then decided to give a CLA a whirl, I was super lucky to stumble on a legacy document by Mr. Jerzy Wasowicz. Thank you sir: It was perfect for my needs. Thank god for the internet. Attached below, for safekeeping.
A few things I noted:
1) It cleaned up great. Even though there was some "haze" on the prism, it looks clear and bright.
2) The construction is absolutely incredible for the era. There are steel screws, brass screws, chromed brass screws, every set of screws is different and specified for its purpose. Brass and steel parts, etc. I felt like I was working on a clock or watch.
3) The optics are quite simple aside from the prism. There are essentially 3 lens "sets" that are each addressed as a single unit.
4) It helps to make a scratch around the base of the prism assembly to mark its orientation in the lyre/body, to ease realignment upon assembly.
5) A bit of care on reassembly - the rotating ring should be lubricated at the spring / detents. The two tiny screws on the front ring are to fix the position of the front ring on the nose. The side screw on the front ring is to fix its relative position with the focal length scale. Lubricating the interface between the front ring and the focal length scale ring makes it easier to hold the focal length scale ring in place while screwing the front ring in until the "side screw" holes align between the two. The retaining ring (placed with lens spanner) holds the "nose assembly" to the lyre / body, and the small set screw is to secure the rotation of the nose assembly on the body. I tightened the retaining ring most of the way before placing the small set screw, to avoid overstressing it upon tightening the retaining ring.
Cheers!
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