Voigtlander Dynamatic II

Starscream59

Newbie
Local time
3:23 PM
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
7
I recently picked up a Voigtlander Dynamatic II at a thrift store for $5. When I did a little bit of searching, I couldn't find much beyond a manual and that it's from the early '60s. It looks to be a lower end offering from Voigtlander in attempt to the likes of Canon's Canonet line. The lens is a Color-Skopar 50mm f/2.8. It appears to have an automatic shutter priority mode, but I'm guessing due to the selenium cells is causing the lightmeter to no longer function. I figured I'd take a gamble and see if it would be any good. I plan to shoot a roll in the next coming week to see how well it performs. Just wondering if anyone had any experience?
 
The Dynamatics were essentially basic Vito type cameras with a Prontormat shutter (selenium driven AE). I've never seen a working AE shutter - but the Dynamatic II can be used as a all manual camera.
 
If the meter needle sweeps smoothly and rapidly as you move from light to dark to light, the selenium cell is fine.

If the needle barely budges, then the selenium cell could be dead. I haven't looked into the Vito meters enough to know if the meter has contacts to the meter assembly or has wires soldered to the meter assembly.

In general, I've found some of the non-folding Vitos to be excessively heavy for their size. The Color-Skopar is a very good Tessar-type lens.
 
I used one back as early as 1982 or so - and the meter was already shot then. Common problem with these, unfortunately. Also desilvering of the RF. The lens is pretty darn good, actually.
 
I appreciate all the responses. I'm fine with using as a fully manual camera. The aperature blades seem to work smoothly and the shutter speeds seem to be accurate. I'm glad to hear that I should be able to get semi-decent results from it. And yes, the camera does seem fairly heavy for it's size. it seems to weigh as much of my SLRs.

I'm unsure of how to determine focus through the rangefinder, there only appears to be one set of frame lines. Normally, I would think that there would be two sets which would align when the object is in focus, as that's how most similar rangefinders I've shot have worked.
 
Some of these old rangefinders have the main image for composition, and a small central circular spot where there is the other image superimposed, so you adjust focus until the superimposed circle overlays the main image.
 
There is only the one solid-lined frame, so it seems like that might be the case. I put a dot in the center with a permanent marker and it seemed better. Although now, for some reason the aperture blades seem to be sticking.
 
Back
Top Bottom