laptoprob
back to basics
Because the rangefinder was seriously off vertically I saw no other way to get it solved than to take the top off. The strap hinges hold the top fixed and can be screwed off.
Then the whole rangefinder system can be removed with only two screws! No hooks or springs or anything difficult. The difficult bits must be further away, hardly serviceable.
The screw at the back, just below the top gives way to a set screw for the horizontal alignment. This last screw is 1,8cm into the camera. Impossible to be seen with the top on.
Then the whole rangefinder system can be removed with only two screws! No hooks or springs or anything difficult. The difficult bits must be further away, hardly serviceable.
The screw at the back, just below the top gives way to a set screw for the horizontal alignment. This last screw is 1,8cm into the camera. Impossible to be seen with the top on.
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laptoprob
back to basics
more pics
more pics
The first pic above is with the top off only. It shows the space where the lichtmeter could be in other models.
The second shows the whole RF separate, the third during the winding.
Below a pic of the underside of the RF assembly with the connection of that part to the camera and the location of the RF set screw (horizontal).
The space for the lightmeter is filled with a blank steel bit!
There is no technical reason for the curved top plate, only esthetics.
After all this I discovered the reason for the two sets of shutters. The main shutter opens again while cocking. That's why there is a second shutter, made up of only two closing parts. This one was stuck, but lighter fluid got it working again!
more pics
The first pic above is with the top off only. It shows the space where the lichtmeter could be in other models.
The second shows the whole RF separate, the third during the winding.
Below a pic of the underside of the RF assembly with the connection of that part to the camera and the location of the RF set screw (horizontal).
The space for the lightmeter is filled with a blank steel bit!
There is no technical reason for the curved top plate, only esthetics.
After all this I discovered the reason for the two sets of shutters. The main shutter opens again while cocking. That's why there is a second shutter, made up of only two closing parts. This one was stuck, but lighter fluid got it working again!
Attachments
dazedgonebye
Veteran
I've had the top off of my werramatic a few times.
I get the impression that they did not consult the maintenance people when they designed it.
Pretty cool stuff in there though.
I get the impression that they did not consult the maintenance people when they designed it.
Pretty cool stuff in there though.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Oh man, what a a disappointing thread. I thought it was about triplet blondes. bummer.
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
laptoprob said:After all this I discovered the reason for the two sets of shutters. The main shutter opens again while cocking. That's why there is a second shutter, made up of only two closing parts. This one was stuck, but lighter fluid got it working again!
Thanks for posting these. Pretty fancy interior! I was impressed by the fact that the RF optics are contained in what appears to be a one-piece casting.
Is it really necessary to remove the RF module whenever you need to turn that horizontal adjustment screw? That would be a real nuisance!
Incidentally, if I remember correctly, the reason the main shutter opens when cocking is that it uses double-ended blades. With most leaf shutters, the blades have to open, stop, reverse direction, and then close. The need to stop and reverse the blades is what limits the top speed of most leaf shutters to 1/500.
The double-ended blades in the Werra's Prestor shutter do not have to reverse direction during their cycle -- they just spin one-half turn, so one end of the blade opens the shutter and the other end closes it. This is what allows its claimed 1/750 top speed. (Clever concept, but I believe Kodak got there first with their Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter, which works on the same principle.)
The disadvantage is that for the blades to return to their original (cocked) position, they have to open again, thus the need for the two-bladed secondary shutter.
laptoprob
back to basics
One of the reasons for posting this is the further explanation of the horizontal adjustment screw. It can be done without taking the top off, but you have to know about the interior. Like I pointed out, the screwdriver has to be 18mm into the camera to reach the setting screw. In that 18mm you have to pass the cocking system as shown on the 2nd and 3rd photo. If you don't know about that, it is almost impossible to get to the setting screw.
The whole RF system is indeed a single cast piece held by only two screws and no jumping springs or difficult hooks.
I wonder about the meter, if present. Is that similarly easy to replace?
The rest of the camera is very difficult to get to I guess. Maybe maintanance free?
The whole RF system is indeed a single cast piece held by only two screws and no jumping springs or difficult hooks.
I wonder about the meter, if present. Is that similarly easy to replace?
The rest of the camera is very difficult to get to I guess. Maybe maintanance free?
zcetrt
Newbie
Hi to all.
This post was very useful for me, however, I am not able to calibrate my Werra 3 rangefinder. The screw becomes very stiff and impossible to turn at some stage. But I should turn it even further because the rangefinder is still off. At the object more than 20m away reading on the lens says that it is 8m away. And I have tried it with 50mm Tessar and 35mm Flektogon. Both lenses shows the same distance.
I haven't open the top. Do you think I could save my issue opening the top?
Thank you for your replies. It's an old thread, but so are this beautiful cameras.
Regards!
This post was very useful for me, however, I am not able to calibrate my Werra 3 rangefinder. The screw becomes very stiff and impossible to turn at some stage. But I should turn it even further because the rangefinder is still off. At the object more than 20m away reading on the lens says that it is 8m away. And I have tried it with 50mm Tessar and 35mm Flektogon. Both lenses shows the same distance.
I haven't open the top. Do you think I could save my issue opening the top?
Thank you for your replies. It's an old thread, but so are this beautiful cameras.
Regards!
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