Wetting agent: a question to Ilfotol users

Joao

Joao

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Hello
Can you tell me which precise amount of Ilfotol do you use to get no drying marks ? I have read advices varying from "a few drops" to "less than the recommended dose" but I would apreciate a more exact measure.
So, how many drops (or mL ) of Ilfotol per liter of water ?
Thank you in advance
Joao
 
I gave up on Ilfotol and use Edwal LFN wetting agent. Just 2 drops per 500 ML and zero drying marks. I'm even using it as a final rinse for FB prints now and it cured raised spots from dried water droplets.
 
Half the recommended amount. Less still is homeopathic and has no effect. Applies to all the wetting agents I've used.

Cheers,

R.
 
Use distilled or purified water with the last rinse with Ilfotol. I've used cheap automotive battery water with success.
 
Thanks ! "Half the recommended amount" is a precise statement.
I will try that.
Regards
Joao
 
If I can chip in...

I used the amount stated on the bottle and still got drying marks. Then I tried the "half the recommended dosage" amount and STILL got drying marks. The next roll I was pretty annoyed that I'd wasted my money, so I put in about twice as much as it states on the bottle. Why not, eh?

Surprisingly, it worked. Which goes against what I've read elsewhere. And it's worked ever since.

Best as I can figure, my tap water is to blame. I live in Burton upon Trent, and our water is legendary for its mineral content. Why? Beer. The hard water makes some of the best beer going. Bass and Marston's both started here. Various famous beers stipulate the use of Burton water in the recipe. I reckon it's so hard it needs more Ilfotol to help it slough off the film; I'd be interested to see if anyone's found anything similar.

And so I don't think there is a hard and fast amount for tap water. For distilled water, maybe, but if you're going from the tap you might want to play around a bit with some non-crucial film.
 
I live in a town where the tap water contains quite a few minerals so I always use distilled water in the final rinse.
 
Coldkennels said:
If I can chip in...

I used the amount stated on the bottle and still got drying marks. Then I tried the "half the recommended dosage" amount and STILL got drying marks. The next roll I was pretty annoyed that I'd wasted my money, so I put in about twice as much as it states on the bottle. Why not, eh?

Surprisingly, it worked. Which goes against what I've read elsewhere. And it's worked ever since.

Best as I can figure, my tap water is to blame. I live in Burton upon Trent, and our water is legendary for its mineral content. Why? Beer. The hard water makes some of the best beer going. Bass and Marston's both started here. Various famous beers stipulate the use of Burton water in the recipe. I reckon it's so hard it needs more Ilfotol to help it slough off the film; I'd be interested to see if anyone's found anything similar.

And so I don't think there is a hard and fast amount for tap water. For distilled water, maybe, but if you're going from the tap you might want to play around a bit with some non-crucial film.
Click to expand...

That IS interesting! Thanks!

But, like others, I always use distilled/demineralized water for the last wash and wetting bath.

Cheers,

R.
 
Roger Hicks said:
That IS interesting! Thanks!

But, like others, I always use distilled/demineralized water for the last wash and wetting bath.

Cheers,

R.
Click to expand...
I probably should - and will, if I ever end up shooting something so crucially important I feel a need to ensure the negs will last until the end of my lifetime. As it stands, they come out perfectly clean, so I have no complaints.

Aside: I think I read somewhere that if you use enough Ilfotol for it to "foam", you've got too much. My tank looks like a washing up bowl where someone's gone overboard on the Fairy (dish soap for the Americans). :rolleyes:
 
I also get better results with more Ilfotol than less.

Here in Göteborg, we apparently have the same type of water as Dublin and London; great for brewing porter, less good for rinsing film :)
 
I use 2 to 3 ml per litre, which iirc is ha;f the recommended amount. Our water actually contains very few hardening salts, so that may be consistent with the earlier experience.
 
Any reason as to why half the recommended amount? I always use the recommended or more, it's not expensive and I figure the more the better and it always worked out.
 
I splash the minimum I can straight out of the Ilfotol bottle into the Paterson tank after the final rinse. Which is a few millilitres, at least five or ten. It foams up nicely. I don't care, because when the films have dried, they never have spots on them. I use rain water out of our catchment tank for all processing stages.
Regards,
Brett
 
hans voralberg said:
Any reason as to why half the recommended amount? I always use the recommended or more, it's not expensive and I figure the more the better and it always worked out.
Click to expand...

Pure empiricism. I find I get fewer (= no) drying marks. But as others have shown, mine is not the only possible answer.

Cheers,

R.
 
Here is a technique useful when the drying marks are on not on the emulsion side but the base and where you cannot get distilled water and where you have no other option:

As soon as your film is pulled from the water/wetting agent mix and hung, dry the non-emulsion side by running kitchen roll (rolled up into a bung to ensure you don't get the edges which are more likely to shed lint) down its length. When the surface gets sodden, rotate to the roll of roll (!) and wipe again, replacing the paper when required. Do this until all the flowing/beading water is all gone from the base and the rest of the water now scattered over the surface will just dry off without marks. It is easiest to do this with another person, because then they can hold the top of the film and you can steady the film with one hand (and get some tension into it) and wipe with the other. If you are alone, ensure your film is firmly attached at the top to whatever you hang it from so that the wiping does not pull it off onto the floor!

Does it work? Yes, always in my experience. ZERO drying marks even with really nasty water.

Does it leave lint? Rarely. When it does that just dusts right off the base as it cannot adhere. Just stay away from the emulsion side!

Does it scratch? No. Never.

It takes about 15-30 seconds per roll.

Oddly, I have rarely if ever had issues with drying marks on the emulsion side, but I have on the base and it varies from film to film and of course depends on the water quality. With some films in Kabul, I could never get the base clear of marks without doing this (foma 100 being one of them). it seems that the marks are less of a problem on the emulsion side due to the way the water flows off and the absorbency of the emulsion.

its like an absorbent one sided squeegie!
 
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I've just done the same as Brett (usually developing film at the same time and place...) and it works.
I usually put a tad less than he does but it still foams...
Never had dryin marks from it and usin tank water...
 
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