What film/scanner/lightmeter for my Isolette?

R

Rob

Guest
It funny, I have had about 20 of these type cameras in the past. I have fixed the focus problems, cleaned them up and sent them on their way. I now would actually like to do some shooting with one. I currently have a Isolette with Apotar lens. I have fixed the focus and cleaned the shutter. I maybe getting a Ventura 69 also. I want to shoot a contrasty black and white film. Please give me suggestions for your favorite films, exposure meters (if used) and how you are scanning your images to digital. I thought I might use my macro lens and light box to copy the negative to digital and reverse it with software. Any help appreciated!
Rob
 
For medium format, I think a decent flatbed like a V700 or Canoscan is good enough. A dedicated scanner is better of course, but with a big negative, I think we're well into diminishing returns.

For film, if you don't want to use a meter, I'd go with Ilford XP2, for me, I think it has far more latitude than 'real' black and white film. If you want 'real' black and white film, can't go far wrong with Tri-X or Tmax, or any 400 speed film from one of the big makers. For colour, Portra 400 is probably the best all round film for my money, the grain is more like a 100 speed film, and it can make a decent photo in almost any lighting conditions.

For meters, my only meter is a VC II, and I like it.
 
I too am a fan of the Agfa/Ansco folders, starting with a Viking 4.5. Make sure to check the bellows for holes. Nothing like ruining a good shoot with light leaks (trust me, been there, done that).

I usually don't even use a meter anymore with my folders, even when shooting chromes.

As for film, I'll shoot anything, even way out of date (1999) chromes. I used to think I wouldn't run anything in a camera that had an ISO higher than the fastest shutter speed, but one time I accidentally ran some T-Max 400 at 200, and liked the results (told the lab to pull it). Worked well on Tri-X, too.

PF
 
Isn't it so that the reason for medium format film is lost when scans have inadequate resolution?

I send 120 film out for 2100 dpi scans, so that the micro contrast in small detail is not entirely lost.

The modulation transfer function is nonlinear when it is multiplied to more than one stage of reduced resolution, even including the final viewing of a print by eye. Micro contrast is a casualty of the process, even when the final pixels are too small to detect by eye.
 
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