hientp
Member
can someone explain what happened with my B&W negatives. I use Kodak D76 - dev time : 8 minutes. There is some spot on that I think it happened when I loaded the film to the reel

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Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Theses look like the spots I got on my last roll of TMX 135. In my case it was the reel that messed it up for me, letting the film double up here and there, resulting in areas that didn´t get developed. Why this happened it your case I wouldn´t know, but it certainly looks like developer has not been able to reach these spots
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
They're caused by film touching film on the developing reel. Its caused by loading the reel incorrectly. Developer and fixer cannot touch areas where layers of film touch each other, so you get these undeveloped and unfixed areas.
gho
Well-known
Looks like incomplete fixing to me. You may try to just dump it back into some fresh fixer. Hmm, there seems also to be some uneven development, so it won't save the negatives completely. As Chris said, somehow the fixer and the developer did not reach these parts of the film properly.
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hientp
Member
I think I loaded film to the reel inappropriately, my plastic reel is flimsy and I have to hold strong to make sure film loaded in the right track. will try another one later and let you guy know. thanks all
btw, question : do I need to fill the chemical full of tank or just over the film, I use the generic all purpose tank 135/120 film tank.
another question, the tank come with swirl stick to agitation, should I use that or use flip loop tank "technic"
btw, question : do I need to fill the chemical full of tank or just over the film, I use the generic all purpose tank 135/120 film tank.
another question, the tank come with swirl stick to agitation, should I use that or use flip loop tank "technic"
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
They're caused by film touching film on the developing reel. Its caused by loading the reel incorrectly. Developer and fixer cannot touch areas where layers of film touch each other, so you get these undeveloped and unfixed areas.
Chris got it right...there's no image in this area therefore the developer didn't get to these spots and the fixer had the same problem...if it was just the fixer you would have an image...
The reels weren't loaded correctly...
jordanstarr
J.R.Starr
Developer didn't hit those spots, so it was a bad reel or bad loading. Check out the reel to make sure it's not warped or something. Run through a roll in daylight if you have some old film or any you'd be willing to sacrifice. If you run it through the fixer again, they will come out clear as evidence that the developer was not hitting the film.
gho
Well-known
[...]
btw, question : do I need to fill the chemical full of tank or just over the film, I use the generic all purpose tank 135/120 film tank.
another question, the tank come with swirl stick to agitation, should I use that or use flip loop tank "technic"
In a Jobo tank, 260 ml are enough for one roll of 135 film. I use 500 ml for two rolls. For one roll of 120 film, 420 ml should suffice in a Jobo tank. I would have the film covered. As for the agitation technique, judging from the negative, what you did last time is looking quite ok. Mostly I agitate 5 times at the start of development (flip-flop) and then once every minute. But there are many different techniques. It is possible to control contrast by agitation. As a rule of thumb: more agitation means more contrast means shorter development times means more grain. Your mileage may vary, have fun!
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tj01
Well-known
what Chris said.
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