alex_g_2000
Newbie
I am trying to buy a rangefinder which would complete, potentially replace my R-D1 (as I need to wait "a bit" before I can afford an M9).
When I take pictures, I love to isolate objects or people in their environment, which is difficult with a small sensor camera (unless I use a 50mm+, but then one doesn't have the overall scene).
I have read quite a few reviews of the GF1 and the NEX 5 and even went to try one of each at a store.
However, I would like to have some users' feedback to understand how they feel working with these two cameras and especially how quick one can get at focusing when using Leica/CV/Zeiss manual M lenses. On the Nex 5 especially, it seems to be a pretty inaccurate exercises and no adaptors seems to be on their way to allow a focus confirmation.
Many thanks in advance.
Alex
When I take pictures, I love to isolate objects or people in their environment, which is difficult with a small sensor camera (unless I use a 50mm+, but then one doesn't have the overall scene).
I have read quite a few reviews of the GF1 and the NEX 5 and even went to try one of each at a store.
However, I would like to have some users' feedback to understand how they feel working with these two cameras and especially how quick one can get at focusing when using Leica/CV/Zeiss manual M lenses. On the Nex 5 especially, it seems to be a pretty inaccurate exercises and no adaptors seems to be on their way to allow a focus confirmation.
Many thanks in advance.
Alex
Vince Lupo
Whatever
E-P2 with the EVF - quite Leica-like in handling!
Shot with a 50/2 Summicron at f/4 -- this action fast enough for you?
Shot with a 50/2 Summicron at f/4 -- this action fast enough for you?
I have a pair of EP-2's, and a third on order for Full-Spectrum, visible+IR.
I also have an M8.
If your biggest concern is OOF areas, go with a good, used, under warranty M8 or M8.2. I like the EP2's, obviously, and use them with my Leica mount lenses. For OOF areas, the 1.3x vs 2x crop needs to be considered.
1956 Jupiter-3, wide-open, on the M8.
My Summicron 50/2 Type 2 Rigid, at F2 on the EP2. Great for close-ups and tight portraits, but you need more distance to the subject to overcome the 2x crop factor. That- or go with a wide-angle legacy lens. Then- the OOF is usually not as smooth.
1937 CZJ Sonnar on the M8, wide-open.
I would have to back off a good bit more, or use a 35mm lens (no Sonnars) with the EP2.
I also have an M8.
If your biggest concern is OOF areas, go with a good, used, under warranty M8 or M8.2. I like the EP2's, obviously, and use them with my Leica mount lenses. For OOF areas, the 1.3x vs 2x crop needs to be considered.
1956 Jupiter-3, wide-open, on the M8.
My Summicron 50/2 Type 2 Rigid, at F2 on the EP2. Great for close-ups and tight portraits, but you need more distance to the subject to overcome the 2x crop factor. That- or go with a wide-angle legacy lens. Then- the OOF is usually not as smooth.
1937 CZJ Sonnar on the M8, wide-open.
I would have to back off a good bit more, or use a 35mm lens (no Sonnars) with the EP2.
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alex_g_2000
Newbie
Many thanks for these pictures (nice shots!).
It does indeed show some of the capabilities of the 3/4 cameras.
What about the NEX 5? The sensor is of the same size as the R-D1, so the crop 1.5x is more manageable than the 2.0x of the 3/4s.
The manual focusing seemed a lot more difficult than the olympus or the panasonic.
It does indeed show some of the capabilities of the 3/4 cameras.
What about the NEX 5? The sensor is of the same size as the R-D1, so the crop 1.5x is more manageable than the 2.0x of the 3/4s.
The manual focusing seemed a lot more difficult than the olympus or the panasonic.
I have not handles the NEX. The manual focus on the electronic viewfinder of the EP2 sold me on the camera.
Be sure to handle one. You can get the m-Mount to NEX adapter.
Be sure to handle one. You can get the m-Mount to NEX adapter.
PCB_RF
Established
(snipped)
I agree with Brian that a used M8 is your best bet at present, given your needs and lens arsenal. They're dropping below $2k these days, and the crop factor is only 1.3x.
m4/3 has a frustrating paradox re: legacy glass. They are a great vehicle for using legacy mf lenses, but their 2x crop factor hurts wideangle fans, and corner performance is poor with most legacy lenses <35mm.
m4/3 wideangle image quality is best with native m4/3 lenses, which right now is the Oly 9-18mm or Pany 7-14mm. You'd need to check on image isolation with these lenses, and they will focus quicker and easier in AF.
Pany just announced their 14/2.5, projected retail US$400 shipping Nov '10?
The Cosina 25/0.95 mf m4/3 lens should have great subject isolation, but at $1k you're getting closer to used M8 pricing.
I find focusing legacy mf lenses easiest with a good EVF, which would mean either Oly EP2/EPL1 or anything Pany except GF1, unless Pany manages a better EVF for GF1.
Although Sony NEX sensor crop factor is better, I have issues with NEX interface, and there's no EVF possible, so NEX doesn't work for me. YMMV.
I agree with Brian that a used M8 is your best bet at present, given your needs and lens arsenal. They're dropping below $2k these days, and the crop factor is only 1.3x.
m4/3 has a frustrating paradox re: legacy glass. They are a great vehicle for using legacy mf lenses, but their 2x crop factor hurts wideangle fans, and corner performance is poor with most legacy lenses <35mm.
m4/3 wideangle image quality is best with native m4/3 lenses, which right now is the Oly 9-18mm or Pany 7-14mm. You'd need to check on image isolation with these lenses, and they will focus quicker and easier in AF.
Pany just announced their 14/2.5, projected retail US$400 shipping Nov '10?
The Cosina 25/0.95 mf m4/3 lens should have great subject isolation, but at $1k you're getting closer to used M8 pricing.
I find focusing legacy mf lenses easiest with a good EVF, which would mean either Oly EP2/EPL1 or anything Pany except GF1, unless Pany manages a better EVF for GF1.
Although Sony NEX sensor crop factor is better, I have issues with NEX interface, and there's no EVF possible, so NEX doesn't work for me. YMMV.
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yanidel
Well-known
My opinion is that these cameras (GF1, NEX) are useless for fast and wide open manual focus in street photography.
If you are after static objects or scenes with less action, it will work fine.
If you are after static objects or scenes with less action, it will work fine.
hvacigar
Newbie
I love my Nex3 with Voigtlander lenses
I love my Nex3 with Voigtlander lenses
I have a 40mm f1.4 and a 50mm f1.1. I usually leave the 40 mm on my M3, but I switch them regularly. The Nex3 does a great job once you get used to using it. I have included three links below that show examples of separation. (these are manual focus lens and all pics are shot in full manual mode on the Nex3)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00154-Edit.jpg
This is one of my friend at my birthday party. This was taken with the 50mm f1.1 at ISO 800 and handheld. (bokeh showoff)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00129.jpg
This is one taken with the 50mm from a tripod.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00015.jpg
This one is handheld just playing around with the 50mm (handheld)
I know all these are with the 50mm, but I would recommend the 40mm nokton instead. It goes to f1.4, it seems sharper to me, and it costs less. I bought the multi-coated version. I will try to dig up some pics of it using the Nex3, or maybe some scans from my M3 using it. I love that lens.
I love my Nex3 with Voigtlander lenses
I have a 40mm f1.4 and a 50mm f1.1. I usually leave the 40 mm on my M3, but I switch them regularly. The Nex3 does a great job once you get used to using it. I have included three links below that show examples of separation. (these are manual focus lens and all pics are shot in full manual mode on the Nex3)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00154-Edit.jpg
This is one of my friend at my birthday party. This was taken with the 50mm f1.1 at ISO 800 and handheld. (bokeh showoff)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00129.jpg
This is one taken with the 50mm from a tripod.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/hvacigar/DSC00015.jpg
This one is handheld just playing around with the 50mm (handheld)
I know all these are with the 50mm, but I would recommend the 40mm nokton instead. It goes to f1.4, it seems sharper to me, and it costs less. I bought the multi-coated version. I will try to dig up some pics of it using the Nex3, or maybe some scans from my M3 using it. I love that lens.
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Vickko
Veteran
Brian, beautiful photos, you are a true master !
Brian, beautiful photos, you are a true master !
Brian, beautiful photos, you are a true master !
Brian, beautiful photos, you are a true master !
Brian, beautiful photos, you are a true master !
f16sunshine
Moderator
Stay with the RD1. Try getting the Nokton f1.2/35mm or even the f1.4/40mm.
The 1.2 is a special lens at wide open. If isolation is your goal. That lens makes the perfect portrait "50" on the rd1.
I have bothe the m8 and rd1. It is not true to say you get better subject to background separation from the Leica.
The 1.2 is a special lens at wide open. If isolation is your goal. That lens makes the perfect portrait "50" on the rd1.
I have bothe the m8 and rd1. It is not true to say you get better subject to background separation from the Leica.
Lss
Well-known
I also have both the M8 and R-D1. If you want a wider viewfinder, the M8 crop favours your lens selection, or you need more pixels, the M8/M8.2 is the way to go. Otherwise, I agree about staying with the R-D1. Consider the MFT/NEX cameras if you want AF, zoom lenses, video, or something else the R-D1 doesn't offer.
usayit
Well-known
I shoot with an R-D1, M8 and m4/3rds... I agree with the above comments and you should stick the R-D1. Not quite sure why there is difficulty "isolating" subjects. Certainly possible with m4/3rds and APS sized sensors.
btw... the R-D1 and NEX have just about the same sensor size.
btw... the R-D1 and NEX have just about the same sensor size.
Thankyou! I'm just lucky to have such a cute model.
alex_g_2000
Newbie
Many thanks. This is very useful. I will stick to the R-D1 with the lenses I have.
Also, since the post, the Fuji X100 was announced and I have to admit, that this would be a very good camera to own, while waiting for the real thing (m9). Let's see how these attractive specs help one take pictures.
Alex
PS: thank you for the pictures also! They are definitely what I am aiming for!
Also, since the post, the Fuji X100 was announced and I have to admit, that this would be a very good camera to own, while waiting for the real thing (m9). Let's see how these attractive specs help one take pictures.
Alex
PS: thank you for the pictures also! They are definitely what I am aiming for!