pesphoto
Veteran
I have the konica FS-1 but want a body without the autowind. Which is the one to get?
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
T3 is very good, but a tank.
T4 is small and can be used in fully manual mode.
I don't like TC because it feels light and insubstantial, T4 feels like a Pentax MX.
T4 is small and can be used in fully manual mode.
I don't like TC because it feels light and insubstantial, T4 feels like a Pentax MX.
The original Autoreflex T MUST have a battery in it for the aperture to close down, even on manual mode. Strange: but that is the way that the one I picked up operated.
I use an FT-1, also have an FS-1. Go for the T4, smaller and nicely made.
I use an FT-1, also have an FS-1. Go for the T4, smaller and nicely made.
pesphoto
Veteran
thanks fellas!
murpograph
Established
I had them all. Kept the FS-1 and the T3. When you ever used a T3 you will not enjoy the T4 or the TC. The T3 is an absolutely reliable tool. Maybe I'm a little silly but weight is for me no disadvantage but a sign of quality ;-).
pixelatedscraps
Well-known
I have a T3 and a TC - the T3 had a fairly weakly designed shutter and as a result, there is a higher-than-normal chance of it failing. I've had two T3s: one arrived with a dead shutter, the other stopped working after about a month.
The TC fared little better and recently stopped working after about 6 months. The repair guy I took them to here in Hong Kong (Mr. Lee of Panda Camera Repair) simply uttered,
"Konica T series..hmm..good lenses, poor shutter. Tsk, tsk..."
It's a shame the Hexanon ARs are so difficult to mount on any digital body as they are such great lenses, and cheap to boot, too.
The TC fared little better and recently stopped working after about 6 months. The repair guy I took them to here in Hong Kong (Mr. Lee of Panda Camera Repair) simply uttered,
"Konica T series..hmm..good lenses, poor shutter. Tsk, tsk..."
It's a shame the Hexanon ARs are so difficult to mount on any digital body as they are such great lenses, and cheap to boot, too.
pesphoto
Veteran
yes, ive discovered I really love the look of the ar lenses. Especially the 40mm 1.8...the FS-1 i had died and I just got a new one off KEH for $59. At least they are cheap to replace when they go. But it's really about these lenses not the bodies......gonna look at a TC or T4 i think as I like the smaller bodies.
smasher
Established
Yep. The lenses are amazing. The bodies kind of suck.
I've got a T, a T4, and a TC. The T's meter doesn't work at all, but the thing feels like a brick, and it's a lot of fun to shoot meterless.
The T4 and the TC have unreliable meters. I shoot Sunny 16 with them, too.
I've got a T, a T4, and a TC. The T's meter doesn't work at all, but the thing feels like a brick, and it's a lot of fun to shoot meterless.
The T4 and the TC have unreliable meters. I shoot Sunny 16 with them, too.
pesphoto
Veteran
thanks smasher...I used to live in Somerville near Davis sq...in RI now
Yep. The lenses are amazing. The bodies kind of suck.
I've got a T, a T4, and a TC. The T's meter doesn't work at all, but the thing feels like a brick, and it's a lot of fun to shoot meterless.
The T4 and the TC have unreliable meters. I shoot Sunny 16 with them, too.
David Murphy
Veteran
I am looking for an original one with half frame control. These are a little pricey. Right now I'm using a T3 which has been battery converted to use alkaline cells. It's an excellent SLR aside from being a little heavy. Full manual or automatic control is available AND the shutter is fully mechanical! I think the only other SLR to accomplish that was the Pentax LX (a very expensive camera).
The Canon EF also has a "hybrid" shutter, battery is required for the very long shutter times.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_camera
Nikon's FM3a also has manual mode w/o battery.
The Konica's use "trap-Needle" for shutter preferred automatic. Pushing the shutter release provides for force for the automation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_camera
Nikon's FM3a also has manual mode w/o battery.
The Konica's use "trap-Needle" for shutter preferred automatic. Pushing the shutter release provides for force for the automation.
pesphoto
Veteran
David, have you heard of Greg Weber? He might have what you want, I would love an orig w/ half frame. BUt out of my price range now. I asked Greg about a TC w/ battery conversion. He converts them, sells em for $150.
http://www.webercamera.com/
http://www.webercamera.com/
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
The T4 and the TC have unreliable meters. I shoot Sunny 16 with them, too.
I think it's not that they are unreliable as much as they are weirdly designed. They are shutter priority in AE mode, and if you want to use it non-AE, you only have that band of white area to guide you in the viewfinder.
I much prefer Aperture-priority anyways, so I just take the battery out of my T4 and use it with Sunny-16 like you do. More fun that way too
One thing I just find out with the T4, the viewfinder usable, but it is rather dim when compared to OM-1 and Nikon F3.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I asked Greg about a TC w/ battery conversion. He converts them, sells em for $150.
http://www.webercamera.com/
Ouch, that is very expensive for a TC.
Paul, if you must have a meter, I think you'll be better of getting an FT-1. But you must stress out to the seller that the battery contact on the grip must be clean and working. That is its Achilles' heel.
I had one and the meter is very accurate.
pesphoto
Veteran
I agree, too much for this camera even if it is CLA'd and converted.
I have an FS-1 that works just fine and I really like but am hunting for a body w/o built in winder. Will prob take a chance on an ebay TC. Seems like they go for next to nothing and that fits my budget .....
I have an FS-1 that works just fine and I really like but am hunting for a body w/o built in winder. Will prob take a chance on an ebay TC. Seems like they go for next to nothing and that fits my budget .....
Ouch, that is very expensive for a TC.
Paul, if you must have a meter, I think you'll be better of getting an FT-1. But you must stress out to the seller that the battery contact on the grip must be clean and working. That is its Achilles' heel.
I had one and the meter is very accurate.
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