Why are my images turning out like this? Home developing b/w

romeld

romeld

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Jan 19, 2015
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Hi all,

I've just started home developing and I'm not really sure where I've gone wrong with my last couple of rolls. The first roll I developed turned out great but now I'm getting these results. I'm not exactly sure if it's a light leak or not because they're not on every single one of my images.

My developing process looks like this for my last 2 rolls of TriX400
D76 1+1 300ml 9minutes 45 seconds, agitating for the first minute then 10 seconds every minute
Water stop bath 1 minute
Kodak Fixer 300ml 3 minutes agitating every minute

Here are what my images have looked like:
BL4UJ52.jpg

niw2yLu.jpg

g9Rp2Ar.jpg

RvKyjf2.jpg


Any advice would be great!
 
Did you pre wash the film? Mabe old chemicals. I have never has that with hc-110 or mono bath one shot for 7 min. They all look overexposed to me. I had old chemicals thst looked like this to me.
 
I fix my negatives for about 6-8 min when I use HC -110. You can cut a small piece of film leader and let it sit in some fixer until clear. Time it then dix all your film dor that time. Might help. Good luck.
 
Definitely too short of a fixing time for Kodak fixer. 5 mins is the minimum with fresh fixer, and I extend those times as the fixer gets older. 8 -10 minutes is not uncommon for me. I agitate for the first 30 sec, then four inversions every minute after that. Like kknox said, you can test the fixer with a piece of film leader, then double that time to get your minimum fixing time. Fixing for an extra few minutes will not harm the film. Also, using hypo-clear will help to shorten your wash times.
 
Also, you may be able to improve these images by re-fixing the film for another few minutes, then the standard wash times.
 
jim_jm said:
Definitely too short of a fixing time for Kodak fixer. 5 mins is the minimum with fresh fixer, and I extend those times as the fixer gets older. 8 -10 minutes is not uncommon for me. I agitate for the first 30 sec, then four inversions every minute after that. Like kknox said, you can test the fixer with a piece of film leader, then double that time to get your minimum fixing time. Fixing for an extra few minutes will not harm the film. Also, using hypo-clear will help to shorten your wash times.
Click to expand...




I think you're right.


Original poster: if you're using the powdered Kodak Fixer, be aware that the fixing times for it are very long. I would fix for ten minutes if I had to use it, but I would not use that fixer on modern films if I had a choice. Get a modern rapid fixer. Kodak's liquid Rapid Fix is fine, as is Ilford's. Fixing times with them is about 5 minutes with most films.
 
Fixer suggestion is Ilford Rapid Fixer, it don't smell as bad.
Fixes fast, use wet piece of negative for "clear"test.
Double the time.
I actually use 2 fixers, it's easy and last a bit longer..
My water solution stands in bottle for weeks before usage.
It helps "ph" level. I filter all solutions prior to developing and fixing.
Use coffee filters in funnel. One for each solution.
Developer is HC-110, a 1-use solution.
I like a Stop Bath, Kodak's with awful smell..
Photo-Flo for rinse.
 
Is there a milkiness to the emulsion side of the film? I will agree on insufficient fixing as the likely reason.

I like the Sprint Quicksilver Fixer. Super easy to mix, fixes in 3 minutes (4 minutes for Tabular grain films) and gives 30 rolls per liter of working solution.
 
I think the fixing times are too short too. You could make your life a lot easier going to a rapid fixer (I use Kodak Rapid Fixer). Even the rapid fixer may need more time than you used. Also, don't forget that you need to wash the film for a long time. I like 30 minutes w/ my stuff. The hose needs to go to the bottom of the tank to work properly. Some people use the Ilford method of washing, and it works, but if you can hook up something to attach to your faucet you can leave it and come back later.

The coffee filters are a good idea. I filter everything through those. It can't hurt. When you agitate the film, use a swirley motion w/ your arms, and don't under agitate or over do it either. The tank needs a firm "drop" onto a piece of wood on the counter after every agitation. Since you are just starting out, it would help to watch some youtube videos on this, and keep exact notes of your processes as you do your own developing, as well as noting the temps. Make sure you're putting enough developer in the tank. I see uneven development from the top to the bottom on some negs.
 
The top of each frame looks good, is it possible that your solution level in tank was simply too low?

I guess that would be confirmed it the 'bottom' roll in the tank was OK.
 
Would you be able to post a picture or two of the previous roll you did (and considered ok) ?
I live in Burnaby and I know the water doesn't play a roll in this . Peter
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I will try fixing the roll again and also start fixing for about 8-10 minutes. I'm going to take a look at those rapid fixers as well! I was using dev.it for the timings and almost all suggested fixing for 3 minutes. Will try using 400-500ml to make sure there is a little more chemicals as well.

Here are a few images from my previous roll (i made the solution the day before). I may have also used 600ml for this instead of the 300ml I've been currently using I can't remember exactly.
YUdOwKA.jpg

8mZ7d0j.jpg
 
There are quite a few reasons for foggy negatives. But generally, age or uncontrolled light exposure. Is the developing tank all right? Changing bag?
 
Looks like that did the trick! Will use fixer again on my other rolls and hopefully they turn out better.

From today's roll:
XHDRUFH.jpg
 
Problem photos

Problem photos

The images shown clearly suffer from inadequate fixing. That light hazing, looking something like flare, is a thin layer of undeveloped and undissolved light sensitive layer remaining in the emulsion. This can be a problem with TMax films, which commonly require up twice the fixing time of conventional film. Contributing to the problem, you are using Kodak Fixer (not a thiocyanate based rapid fixer), which is much less active. Kodak recommends only a rapid fixer for TMax film, as well as extended fixing time. Suggest you review the processing instructions for TMax film. I smell another YouTube video victim here.
 
randy stewart said:
The images shown clearly suffer from inadequate fixing. That light hazing, looking something like flare, is a thin layer of undeveloped and undissolved light sensitive layer remaining in the emulsion. This can be a problem with TMax films, which commonly require up twice the fixing time of conventional film. Contributing to the problem, you are using Kodak Fixer (not a thiocyanate based rapid fixer), which is much less active. Kodak recommends only a rapid fixer for TMax film, as well as extended fixing time. Suggest you review the processing instructions for TMax film. I smell another YouTube video victim here.
Click to expand...




He figured it out a week ago. You should have read more of the thread than just the first post.
 
You can not over agitate in fix. It is a process that goes to completion, then stops.

300 ml is too much for a stainless tank. The chemicals need to move and wash spent chemicals from all of the film. Measure with water to see what it take to cover the reel.
 
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