Sailor Ted
Well-known
The postman just delivered my second R-D1s body to replace my original R-D1s body from Robert White that went out of alignment after only a few days from brand new. Right off I can say I love this cameras layout and the way it feels in my hands. I'll be taking some side-by-side shots against my M8 however regardless of the outcome there is an application for this fine camera that goes beyond playing co-pilot to the M8.
Two great DRF's
Two great DRF's
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lhsa
Member
how much does it cost in us $?
Sailor Ted
Well-known
The saga continues- As stated I got my replacement R-D1 back from Robert White and after the initial euphoria regarding the analogue dials began to dissipate I notice this sample seems to have sloppy focusing- I can reverse the direction in focus rotation with noticeable play before the range finder patch starts to react. I am curious if this is to the point where I will get two different focus points depending on whether I start focusing from infinity or near field- my initial shots seem soft but were not shot in a controlled way. If true I don't know what I'll do as I do not remember focus "slop" in my first R-D1 sample. Could this be lens related? I'll try a different lens in the morning but I seem to remember reading about this being an issue with some R-D1’s.
Sigh,
Ted
Sigh,
Ted
R
RML
Guest
Solution: only focus starting from one side, either the close-up side or the infinity side. I don't experience any "slop" on my R-D1 but I focus the way I described. It makes for much faster, more responsive and more accurate focussing.
Just shoot the dang thing!
Just shoot the dang thing!
jim_buchanan
Established
The focus slop described, is the reason I sent my R-D1 to Epson for repair, referenced in another thread.
Add the typical front focusing and backfocusing to the backlash and it makes for a chancy environment for sharp photos.
RML is right, that proper procedure for focus is approaching focus point from one direction. My current method is to use infinity as reference, backoff toward focus point, go past, then finally focus from near to focus point.
When doing close focus tests, one should have 2 sets of test photos. One from each focus direction. It is possible to develop this method to deal with the backlash issue.
The drawback is either infinity or close focus will suffer. As I move the focus ring toward infinity, the R-D1 moves an stops (with perfect coincident images) perfectly at true infinity focus. But because of any backlash present, it will possibly back focus at close up distances. If the R-D1 was calibrated for close focus, any back focus would cause misfocus far off toward infinity. For me, its more important to have the close focus accurate, as the depth of field gets deeper toward infinity focus.
Add the typical front focusing and backfocusing to the backlash and it makes for a chancy environment for sharp photos.
RML is right, that proper procedure for focus is approaching focus point from one direction. My current method is to use infinity as reference, backoff toward focus point, go past, then finally focus from near to focus point.
When doing close focus tests, one should have 2 sets of test photos. One from each focus direction. It is possible to develop this method to deal with the backlash issue.
The drawback is either infinity or close focus will suffer. As I move the focus ring toward infinity, the R-D1 moves an stops (with perfect coincident images) perfectly at true infinity focus. But because of any backlash present, it will possibly back focus at close up distances. If the R-D1 was calibrated for close focus, any back focus would cause misfocus far off toward infinity. For me, its more important to have the close focus accurate, as the depth of field gets deeper toward infinity focus.
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Damn- my last R-D1 did not have this issue and my current M8 does not either. I love this camera and the way it paints color however if I cannot easily and consistently focus it it's of little use to me. I talked to DAG before sending my last R-D1s (brand new) back to Robert White and he warned me of this issue with some R-D1s stating that if you get such a camera he cannot fix it.
It's expensive sending these things back and forth across the Atlantic. I should have kept the first one and just sent it to DAG for repair but because it went out after only three days I figured it had an overly sensitive RF but this issue now seems worse.
Sigh,
Ted
It's expensive sending these things back and forth across the Atlantic. I should have kept the first one and just sent it to DAG for repair but because it went out after only three days I figured it had an overly sensitive RF but this issue now seems worse.
Sigh,
Ted
Ben Z
Veteran
I must've really hit the RD-1 lotto because I've been shooting my refurb daily almost since the day it arrived and so far it's 100% spot on and working fine. I might be being subconciously careful about not whacking it against things but I sort of adopted that posture with my Leicas too because their rangefinders aren't immune to getting knocked out of kilter either.
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Yes Ben I am the only one with R-D1 RF issues and of course my R-D1 doubles as a sledge hammer.
I wish this were P Net.
I wish this were P Net.
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Ben Z
Veteran
When anyone mentions the [many] defects of the M8 that [many] people are tearing their hair out over, you rush to the camera's defense, and then when someone reports having no problem with an RD-1, you take the opposite stance. Whatever it takes to be combative and stir the pot, eh Ted? Yes, you would be right at home at pnet
Didier
"Deed"
Ted,Sailor Ted said:
It seems to be a similar issue like zoom2zoom and I had with our 75mm Summiluxes. As a LUG member posted, this happened to him too, from time to time, with several lenses on R-D1 as well as R-D1s bodies.
Have you tried different lenses?
Didier
barjohn
Established
In my case, I found that the CV 40 Nockton was much harder to focus properly than the Minolta 40 which seems to be spot on. Of course, it could be just me.
Didier
"Deed"
barjohn said:
That could be the lens. Some 40 Noktons and (many) 35 Color Skopar PII left the factory with quite a stiff focus barrel. My Nokton became smoother after one year of almost daily usage.
Didier
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Deed,
Yes last night I tried my ZM 21mm and the problem while not 100% gone was much improved. I will shoot on a tripod and see how far off it is with the lenses I use on this camera- 21mm ZM, 35mm Summicron, 50mm Summicron. The only other lens I would use is the CV 12mm and it of course focuses perfectly 100% of the time- unless I screw it up : )
Ted
Yes last night I tried my ZM 21mm and the problem while not 100% gone was much improved. I will shoot on a tripod and see how far off it is with the lenses I use on this camera- 21mm ZM, 35mm Summicron, 50mm Summicron. The only other lens I would use is the CV 12mm and it of course focuses perfectly 100% of the time- unless I screw it up : )
Ted
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