Scheelings
Well-known
Hi everyone,
I'm now in the second week with the x100 and its been a bit of a learning curve. My previous camera experience is only film Leica's and the M8 - so this camera is obviously more sophisticated functionality-wise.
I've almost got autofocus down pat once I learned about parallax error - but I'd like to understand how to do manual focus and use focus peaking for those situations where its lower light. How can I tell when something is in focus?
I'm now in the second week with the x100 and its been a bit of a learning curve. My previous camera experience is only film Leica's and the M8 - so this camera is obviously more sophisticated functionality-wise.
I've almost got autofocus down pat once I learned about parallax error - but I'd like to understand how to do manual focus and use focus peaking for those situations where its lower light. How can I tell when something is in focus?
nongfuspring
Well-known
The MF assist selection is in the menu, on the bottom of the third page. Select peaking and slide the focus mode switch to MF on the left side of the camera. You can only use it in EVF mode. Focus confirmation is faster to see than to explain.
willie_901
Veteran
There are two focus peaking sensitivities to choose from in the menu.
You can choose two digital zoom levels too.
The jpeg rendering parameters selected with the in-camera menu system affect the appearance of the focus peaking. One could use different sets of in-camera jpeg parameters that would make focus peaking difficult or easy to see.
Focus peaking is based on contrast differences, so low contrast subjects will be more difficult to use. Practice with high contrast focus objects first.
The high contrast edges of subjects in focus or nearly in focus will sparkle. If the lens is stopped down or the focal length is short, many objects will sparkle. If there are numerous objects with high contrast at different distances, you can see them sparkle and un-sparkle as you slowly change focus (or position).
You can choose two digital zoom levels too.
The jpeg rendering parameters selected with the in-camera menu system affect the appearance of the focus peaking. One could use different sets of in-camera jpeg parameters that would make focus peaking difficult or easy to see.
Focus peaking is based on contrast differences, so low contrast subjects will be more difficult to use. Practice with high contrast focus objects first.
The high contrast edges of subjects in focus or nearly in focus will sparkle. If the lens is stopped down or the focal length is short, many objects will sparkle. If there are numerous objects with high contrast at different distances, you can see them sparkle and un-sparkle as you slowly change focus (or position).
Scheelings
Well-known
I sort of notice some sparkling - but my shots are out of focus. I think I'm doing it wrong. How do I zoom?
What is the difference between the two types of focus peaking?
willie_901
Veteran
You should probably read the software upgrade release notes and study the manual. Digital zooming to check focus is not restricted to focus peaking.
There are two sensitivity choices which affect how strong the peaking effect appears.
Can you focus the camera in any circumstances using AF? If so, put the camera on a tripod. Use AF to focus. Take a picture. If it's in focus, switch to MF. Then you can carefully use the lens focus collar to see peaking sparkles. You can play with the menu sensitivity levels and even change the JPEG rendering parameters to maximize the effect.
There are two sensitivity choices which affect how strong the peaking effect appears.
Can you focus the camera in any circumstances using AF? If so, put the camera on a tripod. Use AF to focus. Take a picture. If it's in focus, switch to MF. Then you can carefully use the lens focus collar to see peaking sparkles. You can play with the menu sensitivity levels and even change the JPEG rendering parameters to maximize the effect.
B-9
Devin Bro
I've found focus peaking to be useless for me, even close up subjects are painfully slow to the punch.
I don't know a human on earth willing to wait for me to "focus peak" their face.
IMO the X100 is best used in AF and I've found the AF to be good in most cases. Even in windowless bars, and dimly lit smoke spots. This camera really shines in good light with stationary subjects.
For manual focus I grab one of my many cameras designed to do so.
Not trying to hate, I love my X100 immensely, the photos are gorgeous!
I don't know a human on earth willing to wait for me to "focus peak" their face.
IMO the X100 is best used in AF and I've found the AF to be good in most cases. Even in windowless bars, and dimly lit smoke spots. This camera really shines in good light with stationary subjects.
For manual focus I grab one of my many cameras designed to do so.
Not trying to hate, I love my X100 immensely, the photos are gorgeous!
Scheelings
Well-known
No, I was trying to focus manually due to the low light causing the macro autofocus to continuously mi****. I would have to shine the light onto something at a similar distance in order to get it to focus properly.
Under good lighting conditions I have no problem with autofocus - so I thought perhaps manual focus would be a good substitue without good lighting - otherwise whats the point of it?
willie_901
Veteran
Manual focusing can have advantages in situations besides macro work in low light.
I never used the X100, or any Fuji X camera for close ups.
When the AF failed in macro mode did you have the focus assist light enabled?
I do know the X100 lens design team has publicly said the X100 lens was not designed for macro use at apertures wider than f 4. I don't know if the inherent softness at wide apertures is making it difficult for focus peaking to work well.
Again, I would attempt to use manual focus in macro mode using objects with high contrast in bright light. Then I would progress to difficult situations such as low ligth in macro mode.
I never used the X100, or any Fuji X camera for close ups.
When the AF failed in macro mode did you have the focus assist light enabled?
I do know the X100 lens design team has publicly said the X100 lens was not designed for macro use at apertures wider than f 4. I don't know if the inherent softness at wide apertures is making it difficult for focus peaking to work well.
Again, I would attempt to use manual focus in macro mode using objects with high contrast in bright light. Then I would progress to difficult situations such as low ligth in macro mode.