mdwsta4
Matty Westside
For a few years now I've been on the hunt for an X-Pan/TX1 at the 'right' price. Well, I finally found one; Fuji TX1 w/ the 45mm lens. Should be here any day now and I am really excited to shoot with it.
The kit did not come with the lens hood. My understanding is that the same lens hood fits the 45 and 90mm lenses and there are two versions of the lens hood.
Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to buy one? I saw an expired for sale post where the seller was asking $150! That seems absurd. Does no one make a 3D printed version (which seems like a great idea!)?
Of course, a follow up question could also be 'how much does the 45mm lens flare?'
Being a first time X-Pan user, any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Matt
The kit did not come with the lens hood. My understanding is that the same lens hood fits the 45 and 90mm lenses and there are two versions of the lens hood.
Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to buy one? I saw an expired for sale post where the seller was asking $150! That seems absurd. Does no one make a 3D printed version (which seems like a great idea!)?
Of course, a follow up question could also be 'how much does the 45mm lens flare?'
Being a first time X-Pan user, any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Matt
guardado1213
Established
Firstly congrats on the new Xpan, it is truly a remarkable camera to use and the image quality is superb.
Sadly the prices for the hoods and the centre filter for both lenses run up to $200 USD sometimes. What I did to get around these prices was to buy the 90mm which run from 350 at the lower end to 600 at the highest and ensure that it came with the hood. It sounds absurd to buy a lens for just a hood but in my opinion you get more bang for your buck.
Sadly the prices for the hoods and the centre filter for both lenses run up to $200 USD sometimes. What I did to get around these prices was to buy the 90mm which run from 350 at the lower end to 600 at the highest and ensure that it came with the hood. It sounds absurd to buy a lens for just a hood but in my opinion you get more bang for your buck.
taomei
Established
Likewise I first bought a kit without the lens hood; got lucky I guess on eBay after being patient and managed to find one for <$50. That said, I didn't really notice much flare with the 45mm for the couple of rolls I shot without the hood, but then again I was shooting black and white mostly, and without the center ND filter either, YMMV.
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Thanks for the info guys. I'll continue to be on the hunt for a cheap one as well as a potential 90mm kit that includes a hood.
I'm also considering buying a few 49mm screw-in wide angle plastic hoods on eBay, cutting them apart, piece them back together, and use bondo/filler to create an alternative to the OEM hood.
I'm also considering buying a few 49mm screw-in wide angle plastic hoods on eBay, cutting them apart, piece them back together, and use bondo/filler to create an alternative to the OEM hood.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
A 3-D printed one sounds like a great idea. If "Heavystar," who supplies aftermarket hoods at a reasonable price, could make one, that would be great!
Sounds like something I would try. The XPAN is so good, they should have paid attention to making the hood stay on!
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
I reached out to Analogue Robot who created a 3d printed hood for my Voigtlander 35 through Shapeways. Have been using it since his first batch and it's performed beautifully. I've used Heavystar's lens tabs on my 50mm cron for years as well. Didn't realize he 3d printed hoods.
I read about that. Apparently the 2nd generation has a screw or something to keep the lens hood from falling off? Suppose that's another reason why using the filter threads might be a better solution.
I read about that. Apparently the 2nd generation has a screw or something to keep the lens hood from falling off? Suppose that's another reason why using the filter threads might be a better solution.
nasmformyzombie
Registered
There are two versions of the lens hood, one with a locking mechanism (54405), one without it (54406). It would seem that both versions are rare.
The 45mm and 90mm lenses are like most modern lenses in that they will flare but are not as flare prone as some older lenses with less modern coatings. As far as optics are concerned, the 45mm exhibits visible vignetting until stopped down (also correctable with the very pricey center filter), and the 90mm shows a bit of corner color fringing.
x-ray
Veteran
I wouldn't worry about a hood and if I felt I had to have one I'd buy a 49 to 52mm adapter and use a cheap 52mm rubber hood with it. The reason for the 52mm adapter is to prevent vignetting. Be sure to use a wide angle hood.
I have the hood but it's so shallow it doesn't do much. Ive shot with and without the hood and never had any flare. Fuji's EBC coatings are excellent. I own several Fujinon view camera lenses with it and find them to be quite flare resistant.
This is my second XPan and one came with the center filter and this one didn't have it. Aced shooting without it my personal opinion is its essential to use it. There's a full stop of falloff from center to edge. You may however not find this objectionable. I adition to the XPan I have the Fuji 6x17 cm camera with the 105mm. It too has a full stop falloff from center to edge and I use the Fni center filter designed for it as well.
Interesting side note. I have a 6x9 Brooks Veriwide with a Schneider Super Angulon 47mm f8. It also had a stop or slightly more falloff from center to edge and I use the XPan center filter with an adapter ring. It evens out the exposure nicely and I can't see any falloff at all.
Imo center filters are worth the money if you're critical about your work. Just skip the hood and get the center filter.
I have the hood but it's so shallow it doesn't do much. Ive shot with and without the hood and never had any flare. Fuji's EBC coatings are excellent. I own several Fujinon view camera lenses with it and find them to be quite flare resistant.
This is my second XPan and one came with the center filter and this one didn't have it. Aced shooting without it my personal opinion is its essential to use it. There's a full stop of falloff from center to edge. You may however not find this objectionable. I adition to the XPan I have the Fuji 6x17 cm camera with the 105mm. It too has a full stop falloff from center to edge and I use the Fni center filter designed for it as well.
Interesting side note. I have a 6x9 Brooks Veriwide with a Schneider Super Angulon 47mm f8. It also had a stop or slightly more falloff from center to edge and I use the XPan center filter with an adapter ring. It evens out the exposure nicely and I can't see any falloff at all.
Imo center filters are worth the money if you're critical about your work. Just skip the hood and get the center filter.
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Does the vignetting happen at all apertures? I figured I'd mostly use the camera for landscapes and would likely be shooting somewhere around f8-11, not f4. Any examples of how bad the vignetting is?
x-ray
Veteran
It improves some but is still there when stopped down. Give it a try without the center filter. Some people don't find it objectionable but I do.
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Got it, thanks. I'll give it a go and see how it turns out. Seeing as I don't have a filter, I don't have much of a choice.
Back on the topic of lens hoods, I stumbled upon this post. Going to give this option a shot since it'd be about the same cost as me hacking up two hoods, but saves me the time and effort!
Back on the topic of lens hoods, I stumbled upon this post. Going to give this option a shot since it'd be about the same cost as me hacking up two hoods, but saves me the time and effort!
nasmformyzombie
Registered
With the 45mm lens, vignetting improves stopping down at f8 (better still at f11 and f16) but if you want to eliminate it completely you will have the use the center filter, or correct it post-processing. You lose one stop with the filter.
At f22 images from the 45mm exhibit some softness across the frame.
At f22 images from the 45mm exhibit some softness across the frame.
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Wow, just looked and the cheapest I can find the filter is $300USD! F that. I'll deal with some slight vignetting and buy a lot more film for that price.
guardado1213
Established
Setadel Studio had one for $195 I think. I would try their website or call.
But honestly its not essential if you stop the lens down, especially for black and white. Hope you find a solution that works for you and make sure to post up some images when you can!
Cheers
-Juan
But honestly its not essential if you stop the lens down, especially for black and white. Hope you find a solution that works for you and make sure to post up some images when you can!
Cheers
-Juan
mdwsta4
Matty Westside
Thought I would bring this thread back and post some photos from my first two rolls. So far I'm saying 'screw the lens hood and filter'. Definitely not spending the extra money on them and am pleased with the first two rolls.
Tri-X walking around the neighborhood
Kodak Gold last weekend around Mammoth Mountain, June Lake, and Mono Lake
Same weekend, same roll in Bodie. The shots from this place are my personal favorite
Tri-X walking around the neighborhood
Kodak Gold last weekend around Mammoth Mountain, June Lake, and Mono Lake
Same weekend, same roll in Bodie. The shots from this place are my personal favorite
vnukov_pk
Established
had the same problem until recently managed to convince my friend to sell me one (he had both 45 and 90 with hoods).
Original hood is useful. And yes, xpan flares when shot into the sun without hood. cheap screw-in plastic hoods will work, but they are wa-ay bigger that the original one. older metal hoods will produce vignetting due to wide coverage of xpan.
here is an example of extreme hoodless flare (actually like this image)
England Buckinghamshire, 2015 by Pavel Vnukov, on Flickr
Original hood is useful. And yes, xpan flares when shot into the sun without hood. cheap screw-in plastic hoods will work, but they are wa-ay bigger that the original one. older metal hoods will produce vignetting due to wide coverage of xpan.
here is an example of extreme hoodless flare (actually like this image)
England Buckinghamshire, 2015 by Pavel Vnukov, on Flickr
filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
So, a few years ago I dropped a perfectly nice Xpan and fell right on the hood, damaging the camera and hood, but not the lens, or the bayonet mount part of the hood. So took a complete one in to work and had a coworker remake and reprint the hood.
f.hayek
Well-known
At KEH they list one for $147 in BGN condition (in KEH lingo, typically means it's in excellent shape with minor wear). Unfortunately, neither Fujifilm nor Hasselblad kept part stocks for these cameras and so all that's available is 2nd hand, and they are not common.
There's a Chinese knock-off made of metal; have never used one but they're made by 'Alston Hand', found on fartBay and run about $55
In re: center ND filter, it is not essential for either the 45 or 90 except when using reversal film with the 45. Vignetting becomes more prominent. Different story for the 30mm, where it's needed all the time. Unless the 30mm lens comes with both filter and hood, I would avoid it because both of these are damned near impossible to find 2nd hand.
gbealnz
Well-known
So, a few years ago I dropped a perfectly nice Xpan and fell right on the hood, damaging the camera and hood, but not the lens, or the bayonet mount part of the hood. So took a complete one in to work and had a coworker remake and reprint the hood.
I could use one of them, I have the hood for my 30mm, but nothing for the 45 or 90mm.
gbealnz
Well-known
Anyone else come across anything suitable/affordable for the 45/90 hood dilemma? I'm not springing the silly money being asked on the bay.
Gary
Gary