santino
FSU gear head
Dear RFFers!
I picked up my Yashica Electro 35 GTN after 2 years since using it last time only to discover that all shutter speeds sound and look the same and the yellow led is always on.
Last time I shot with it it was perfectly workung. B and X still work fine.
Is it the dreaded pad of death?
I picked up my Yashica Electro 35 GTN after 2 years since using it last time only to discover that all shutter speeds sound and look the same and the yellow led is always on.
Last time I shot with it it was perfectly workung. B and X still work fine.
Is it the dreaded pad of death?
farlymac
PF McFarland
The same happened on my GX. Unfortunately the only expert I know on these cameras (Russ) has retired, and I haven't had the urge to fix it myself yet, but yeah it's probably the POD.
PF
PF
monopix
Cam repairer
When you say the yellow LED is always on, do you mean, it really is ALWAYS on regardless of whether you press the shutter release or not or do you mean it's always the yellow LED that comes on when you press the shutter release?
And approximately what shutter speed is it giving? Something very fast or something very slow or something in the middle?
santino
FSU gear head
Only when I press the shutter. The speed is really fast - something like 1/500 I guess...
monopix
Cam repairer
The symptoms are contradictory. If the yellow lamp is on that says the shutter speed is going to be slower than 1/30th but you're getting, what sounds like, the maximum shutter speed.
The same transistor is used to turn on the yellow lamp and control the electromagnet so that's OK as the yellow lamp comes on. If the B setting works OK then the electromagnet is OK.
The release switch seems to be working so the POD should, at least, be good enough if not perfect.
I can't come up with a single fault condition that gives all the symptoms so I'm thinking it's a problem with the one or more of the switches or contacts in the shutter/lens that changes the mode, connects to the aperture resistors and shorts the timing capacitor. These contacts are known to cause issues. Could be just some cleaning required.
The same transistor is used to turn on the yellow lamp and control the electromagnet so that's OK as the yellow lamp comes on. If the B setting works OK then the electromagnet is OK.
The release switch seems to be working so the POD should, at least, be good enough if not perfect.
I can't come up with a single fault condition that gives all the symptoms so I'm thinking it's a problem with the one or more of the switches or contacts in the shutter/lens that changes the mode, connects to the aperture resistors and shorts the timing capacitor. These contacts are known to cause issues. Could be just some cleaning required.