Your Magic Combination

mfogiel

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Being 99% a B&W shooter, I have been inevitably sucked into the eternal quest for "THE" magic combination of film and developer. I find it very interesting to find out at times, that a given photographer, who I admire, is only using this and that combination of film and developer.
Most of the time however, these cases concern mature artists, who have restricted the scope of their photography to a specific subject, specific negative size, and often also a specific format of the output.. An evident example of this is Michael Kenna, who only uses 6x6 Tri X in D76, and ... he only prints 10x10 inches...

If one wants to do more types of photography and uses various formats, the choices get complicated.

So, I would like to initiate this thread, hoping you will contribute with your "Magic Combinations" - this may include the film, developer, film format, lens and even use of specific filters, which in your opinion deliver outstanding results for a specific type of output.

I would like to start with one of my favourite films - AGFA SCALA. Unfortunately, the last labs in southern Europe, stopped developing it last year, and though I still have some rolls left, I develop it myself as negative now.

Scala is a fairly sharp film with a characteristic tonality, and excels in the dramatic look of deep blacks. I find it a film which ideally suits a Ralph Gibson type of subject, without much need for shadow detail. Here is a frame developed as a slide, which illustrates the point - taken with the 50/2 Planar ZM

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If you put a red 25A filter on, the resulting rendering becomes even more dramatic - this one taken with the 25/2.8 Biogon ZM

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Another fabulous characteristic of this film, is the capacity to render metallic like structures in a very nice way. This one taken with the C Sonnar:

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It also can deliver great results in portraiture, although I find it more appropriate for the "character" portraits, than glamour shots. This one taken with the Makro Planar 100/2 ZF and developed in Prescysol EF:

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I know some were raving about SCALA in Rodinal - I have only tried it in Prescysol EF, Tanol Speed and Rodinal Special ( the shot below). In most cases, it is better to expose it at EI 100.

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I will come back to this thread later, with other examples of combos that work for me, and hope to see many of your favourites too.
 
I love tri-x (arista premium 400) in diafine @ 1250 - 3200. That is my preferred film and developer. Though, if I am for some reason in bright light (unusual for me) I will grab efke 25 and develop it in rodinal.

I enjoyed viewing your photos. The last two in particular are my favorites of the bunch.
 
Right now the "Magic Combo" for me would be Neopan 400 and Rodinal 50:1 (sometimes in HC-110)
I'll go a bit further and include the Yashica Mat 124g in that combo...and as of this week I will also throw in Ilford Multigrade IV FB Matte paper...it all works together for me...
I started using the Neopan in the Mamiya 645 and a bit later tried it in the 124...that decision led me to actually use the 124 so much more than ever...

BTW I love #2 & #5 ^^^
 
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My favorite combinations are:

APX 100 in Rodinal 1+50. E.I 80 - the best tones and punch
TriX in Xtol with a shot of Rodinal. E.I 250 - smoother grain than Rodinal alone. With good acutance effect

all 120 B&W film in Thornton's 2 bath developer. - smooth grain, brilliant tones, consistent results, ease of use.
 
Rollei 400s and HC-110, Ilford FP4+ in ... just about anything, Rollei Superpan 200 in HC-110, Tri-X in HC-110, Acros in HC-110, Neopan 400 in Diafine, Agfa APX-25 in Rodinal, Ilford Pan F in Diafine or HC-110, probably others..
 
Tri-X in Microphen at EI 640. Rich tones and luminous, yet readable, highlights.
 
Right now, Tmax400-2 (TMY-2 at 200) using Rodinal 1+50, 10 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, 3 inversions per minute, dump, then 5.5 cc of Borax in 500ml water, stand for 3 minutes, both at 68 degrees.

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I'm also experimenting using TRIX at 250 with HC-110h a 500ml solution and the adding 2.5 ml of Rodinal (from bottle). I use the same agitation and temp as above except I agitate every 5minutes 3 inversions:

4069672022_60aba5a21e.jpg
 
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Right now I'm diggin Neopan 1600 and Rollei 100 in RHS.

Neopan:

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Rollei 100:

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To Mfogiel: Would there be another film with characteristic similar to Scala, I like the effect ;)
 
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i dont really have a "magic combination" as I keep playing with various developers. However, I have found that with the Tmax-2 400, Beutler 1:1:8 for 12-13 minutes is really nice. This is a 120 neg (Bessa III) and at that size the slightly "grainier" look of Beutler is negated by the larger negative.
As my "standard" - for long, long time - it has been D76 1:1 for 10/11 min. with TriX. I have no idea how many rolls I have shot with that combo - but probably in the 10 000 range. It is not perfect, but you always get a printable negative.
 
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Right now, Tmax400-2 (TMY-2 at 200) using Rodinal 1+50, 10 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, 3 inversions per minute, dump, then 5.5 cc of Borax in 500ml water, stand for 3 minutes, both at 68 degrees.

3287762741_d61528c8cd.jpg


I'm also experimenting using TRIX at 250 with HC-110h a 500ml solution and the adding 2.5 ml of Rodinal (from bottle). I use the same agitation and temp as above except I agitate every 5minutes 3 inversions:

4069672022_60aba5a21e.jpg

You inspired me to develop some Tri-X ( rated at 320 ) in HC110, dilution H, with 2 ml of Rodinal. Not sure exactly how the negs compare to film souped in straight HC110, but they seem to have more accutance and just a bit more "grittiness". I'll have to actually print up some of each to see if there are any differences, or if it's all in my mind. I've attached one.

Getting back to the original OP, I'd have to say Tri-X and Rodinal. I know some people just don't like the grain it gives, but I love the Rodinal look.
 
You inspired me to develop some Tri-X ( rated at 320 ) in HC110, dilution H, with 2 ml of Rodinal. Not sure exactly how the negs compare to film souped in straight HC110, but they seem to have more accutance and just a bit more "grittiness". I'll have to actually print up some of each to see if there are any differences, or if it's all in my mind. I've attached one.

Getting back to the original OP, I'd have to say Tri-X and Rodinal. I know some people just don't like the grain it gives, but I love the Rodinal look.

Exactly, and the highlights are not blown but have that Rodinal sparkle. Something that I was struggling with when doing TRIX in HC-110h. I've only done two rolls so the study/experiment is not complete.
 
Two:

First is HP5+ with an 021 filter in ID-11 1:1.

Second is FP4+ with no filter in HC-110b.

Nothing fancy, but lovely.

I miss APX25 in HC110-b, and have been getting close to a new favorite with PanF+ in Perceptol, though Neopan 1600 in Rodinal has been making me happy of late.

All part of the game.
 
I spent some time in Prague about 10 years ago and used a lot of APX100 in D23. I look at the photos now and sometimes wish I'd used something less, er, idiosyncratic. So I've gone generic for my 'special'. I guess to me special is not special - I can print a nice even middle-of-the-range neg however I like anyway.

I've settled on Tri-X (or, in this case, Arista premium 400) in Xtol 1+3, for at least the next few years anyway.

Marty
 

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Magic bullet is whatever Walmart is dishing out that day. I try not to sweat the details.. If I were Ansel Adams I go diafine. Soup it up in a little selenium toner to neutralize the impurities and Im cool.
 
Many combinations do well for my taste but the most used is for sure Tri-X / HC-110 "B". Simply because Tri-X is available in 100ft rolls and HC-110 is very easy to use. :)
 
Another combo which I like is Fuji Acros in Rodinal. Although it is not ideally suited for low contrast scenes, if you want to shoot outdoors in the sun, and do not disdain the use of orange or red filters, the tonalities delivered and the amount of detail are great. This film is very fine grained, but it lacks acutance, so in my opinion the use of high acutance developers is preferred. In Rodinal you get an extra bonus with the better tonality, as opposed to superior acutance, but somewhat compressed tonality obtainable in pyro type developers.
The apparent sharpness increases somewhat with the medium format, that is why I prefer it in the 6x6 size.
Acros in Rodinal 1+50 (EI 50), Hasselblad SWC/M, orange filter:

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Always in Rodinal 1+50, Hasselblad Makro Planar 135/5.6:

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Same combination, Hasselblad Distagon 50/4:

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And for a comparison, Acros in Prescysol EF, Hasselblad Planar 100/3.5:

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All great images mfogiel!

I think my best combo would have to be Panf+ exposed at 100 ISO and developed in Xtol 1+1 ... most of my favourite combos tend to be with pushed film for some reason. I think I like the extra contrast it gives. :)
 
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