Zeiss Ikon metering characteristics

Joerg

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May 18, 2005
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Hi,

just got my Zeiss Ikon from Photo Village. :D
Now, there is no detailed mentioning of the metering characteristics except that it is TTL centerweighted. There used to be nice little diagrams of the sensitivity, but no more....
So how centerweighted is the meter. Close to spot? Not so centerweighted?
Is there a more detailed description?
Experience?

Ciao & thanks

Joerg
 
joerg

my metering technique is simple and likely borders on ridiculous.
when i use a hand held meter i aim the meter down and take my reading, if there are sunny & shady sides to the street then i take a reading on each side of the street.
i do the same with the zi. if i keep it on ae, then i push the back lock button before shooting but it still gets aimed at the ground.
i find the grey concrete streets works like a grey card as does grass.

if i shoot indoors i use it on ae and just shoot, no changes. (well, rarely)

i just assume it has a 'standard' centre weighted pattern.
 
Joe,

interestingly I do the same with my handheld: asphalt & blue sky, light & shadow and I am covered.
But now with an internal meter I get thrown back to old SLR times where i could at least switch between cw and spot and had to be dead on with slide film.....
Also first measurement seem to indicate a 1 stop difference between handheld and ZI. i have to wait for tomorrow to verify with sunny 16.
Seems like I have to find my greycard and just test....

Ciao

Joerg
 
Though my experience with the Zeiss Ikon is only one single day, I noticed, that metering has to be pretty averaging, not too much in the "spot-direction". If you meter on an area which is pretty dark and then change to an area which contains a noticeable amount of highlights, the in-camera meter doesn't change too much (if made interior it mostly changes only one stop)... so the meter seems to make exposure over a pretty huge field.

I normally used to meter on an area with a huge amount of shadows and then compensate the metered exposure down ("meter for shadows"), which always worked to get nice contrasty pics. Only in special situations (cloud-shooting), I take the other way around... I'll see if it also works with the Zeiss Ikon when developing my first roll. ;)
 
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