Zenit TTL vs Zenit 122

H

Huss

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Which one is 'better' and why?
I like the styling and build more on the TTL (I prefer metal to plastic given the choice) but the 122 is more recent.

And please do not introduce other cameras into the mix, as I have plenty of those already! Also because of that 'neither they both suck' etc is not relevant. This is to get a chunky but functional piece of Russian kit, narrowed down to these two choices. The TTL because I remember it as a kid and so it stirs memories of school trips etc, the 122 because they can still be bought new (old stock).

I heard the TTL has a darker (smaller?) VF, but the 122 is prone to light leaks (easily fixable supposedly)

Thanks!
 
Why not get both? Here in Poland most popular Zenit was 12 xp, very similar to TTL, but with led lightmeter indicator.
 
I've got a TTL, and like it except the meter doesn't work. And you're right, it is more classic looking with all those right angles, and being all metal. But I also like the style of the 122, and may get one some day. No problem with the lenses for either of them, as they are all good. Some even bordering on great.

PF
 
Since both of them perform the same, I would get the TTL. The 122 looks sleeker with the plastic all over it, but also feels bulkier. I also prefer the blue tinted viewfinder of the TTL.
They are cheep though and one could get them both.
 
zozur said:
Why not get both? Here in Poland most popular Zenit was 12 xp, very similar to TTL, but with led lightmeter indicator.
Click to expand...

I had a slight change of plan and bought a new (old stock I assume) 12 SD which is like the XP I think. Anyway, new with the 58 f2 lens and case for $45.
Quite a bit cheaper than used ones I was looking at, and $30 less than the plastic covered 122.
Now to wait for it to show up from Russia...
 
Late reply:

I would have taken your option. I have both a 12XP and a TTL and I prefer the first. The TTL lightmeter needle is sometimes difficult to see in low light settings. And the "plastic" of the 12XP is much more sturdy than it seems. You will like it when you get used to it.

Joao
 
Joao said:
Late reply:

I would have taken your option. I have both a 12XP and a TTL and I prefer the first. The TTL lightmeter needle is sometimes difficult to see in low light settings. And the "plastic" of the 12XP is much more sturdy than it seems. You will like it when you get used to it.

Joao
Click to expand...

The 12XP, like the 12 SD, is made of metal like the TTL. Looks the same. The plastic one is the 122. The 12XP has leds for the lightmeter.
 
12xp was eXPort version. BTW if you will need any parts for it I have few part bodies (12XP), I can send you something for cost of shipping.
 
Internally, the 12SD and 122 are very similar but yes, 122 has a much brighter focusing screen with split-image focus aid in the center. Obviously more plastic used in the 122, but it's also a lot lighter as a result, especially when combined with the 50/2 Zenitar.

Trivia: My 122K had a November 2015 QC date! Camera itself appears to have been manufactured in 2002. Indifferent cosmetics - minor scuffing and a couple of scratches on the glossy plastic surface. But the optics were spotless.
 
I would choose the 12XP. Feels more robust than the 122. A few things to check: light leaks coming from the eye piece mine suffers from this.
 
Put black electrical tape around the back. If you get light leaks they are from the eye piece.
You need to remove the while prism I think. I gave up on it really. But, on the positive side, there is a small screw on the front of the camera below the rewind crank, you adjust the light meter from a screw underneath it. I added a stop overexposure, the cameras metering system is quite primitive and tends to underexpose. I was happy with the results I was getting after adjusting it.
 
Huss said:
The 12XP, like the 12 SD, is made of metal like the TTL. Looks the same. The plastic one is the 122. The 12XP has leds for the lightmeter.
Click to expand...

You're absolutely right, thanks for the correction. It is indeed the 122 that has a polycarbonate or ABS "plastic" body in all the version. I have the grey 50th anniversary model (and in the past had a 122K model). Both are more resistant than it seems when one holds them.
Regards
Joao
 
Joao said:
You're absolutely right, thanks for the correction. It is indeed the 122 that has a polycarbonate or ABS "plastic" body in all the version. I have the grey 50th anniversary model (and in the past had a 122K model). Both are more resistant than it seems when one holds them.
Regards
Joao
Click to expand...

No problem! I was about to get a new 122 but found a new 12SD/XP for half the price so went that way, as I really like the metal and the style. Just waiting on the shipping....
 
p.giannakis said:
Put black electrical tape around the back. If you get light leaks they are from the eye piece.
You need to remove the while prism I think. I gave up on it really. But, on the positive side, there is a small screw on the front of the camera below the rewind crank, you adjust the light meter from a screw underneath it. I added a stop overexposure, the cameras metering system is quite primitive and tends to underexpose. I was happy with the results I was getting after adjusting it.
Click to expand...

Ok. Fingers crossed I won't have any issues...
 
I think that the meter's sensitivity to light entering through the eyepiece is not a defect per se: It's just that the combination of a rather dim focusing screen combined with stopped-down light metering means that under some conditions, the stray light entering via the eyepiece is going to be a largish percentage of the light that the sensors "sees". And one such condition would be shooting in bright midday sun with lens stopped down to f/11 or so: You'll probably want to shade the eyepiece when taking your meter readings under conditions like that. If you wear glasses, just shade it with your hand - a rubber eyecup won't help much there.

Replacing the stock focusing screen with the 122's brighter screen would likely help quite a bit, but you'll need to recalibrate the meter to compensate for the increased brightness.
 
JeffS7444 said:
I think that the meter's sensitivity to light entering through the eyepiece is not a defect per se: It's just that the combination of a rather dim focusing screen combined with stopped-down light metering means that under some conditions, the stray light entering via the eyepiece is going to be a largish percentage of the light that the sensors "sees". And one such condition would be shooting in bright midday sun with lens stopped down to f/11 or so: You'll probably want to shade the eyepiece when taking your meter readings under conditions like that. If you wear glasses, just shade it with your hand - a rubber eyecup won't help much there.

Replacing the stock focusing screen with the 122's brighter screen would likely help quite a bit, but you'll need to recalibrate the meter to compensate for the increased brightness.
Click to expand...

Bright conditions? I don't need no steenkin' light meter! Sunny F16 all the way baby!

FYI many many cameras' exposure meters are affected by light coming in thru the VF. Even my Nikon F6 does - it has a VF blind that you can use to block light coming in, and my D750 has a reversible eye cup for that.
 
Zenit 122 and 412 are now sold out at lomography.com

Guess peeps read this thread and realized that $85 for a new 35mm full frame (!) SLR w/ lens akshully was a good deal.
 
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