Zorki 4 shutter problem

L

Laviolette

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About half the frames in my last roll of film had an overexposed stripe on the right. The stripes are not all the same : some are wider and completely overexposed while others are less so.

Since the stripes are not present outside of the frame of the photos, I ruled out the possibility of a conventional light leak. Is that right? I assumed that the curtains do not close completely, so i tested with a roll of HP5+, firing each shutter speed 3 times to check if it was only one speed that wasn't working. I developed the roll and surprisingly, there was not stripes.

Is my camera allergic to Fuji Superia?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gagnon_a/8093984703/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gagnon_a/8093989694/in/photostream/
 
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An exposure that varies across the frame tends to suggest one of the curtains is sluggish, either due to incorrect tension or due to the mechanics being gummed up. If the camera's been lying around for a while, it's not uncommon for it to need a bit of "exercise" to get the lubricants running around properly again. That might explain your second roll being ok.

I'd be inclined to leave it for now and see if the problem rears its head again. You're right to think that the stripes not extending outside the frame tends to suggest it's not a "normal" light leak - the light must be through the shutter if confined to the frame.
 
Thanks for the reply. Tonight, i tried the camera with the back open, firing each shutter speed many times. I was able to see the problem with the 1/125 speed, where the closing curtain stayed a bit open sometimes.

I have the camera since a month ago and shot maybe 5 or 6 rolls in it, without any problem. Do you think i should clean and lube it? What surprised me when i first got the camera was the stiffness of the winding knob. But since it's my first russian rangefinder i dont kmow if this is normal. Otherwise, i had great fun shooting the camera.
 
The winder should not be hard to turn, I can turn mine by pulling the side of my finger across it. Not something to do for a whole film, maybe, but do-able nevertheless.

It's up to you if you feel confident and adventurous enough to give the camera a CLA, although the signs are that it needs one. There's a sticky thread on how to do the job, at the top of this sub-forum. I'd have a read through it and see what's entailed and then decide.
 
wolves3012 said:
The winder should not be hard to turn, I can turn mine by pulling the side of my finger across it. Not something to do for a whole film, maybe, but do-able nevertheless.
Click to expand...

I couldn't turn mine like that. In fact, after some consecutive shots, my fingers become a bit numb of gripping the winder.

I will follow your advice and CLA my camera. Thanks so much for your time, it's much appreciated.
 
In order to get a smooth winding (a good serviced zorki/fed does indeed 'feel' very close to a Leica) you should disassemble the winding gear and the parts that are found under the shutter button. Especially the spring brake under the winding knob should be cleaned and oiled to get a smooth winding. Currently there is no thread on this part yet, but since I have serviced quite a lot of FSU cams, I might put up some photos soon to make this info available.
 
Ron (Netherlands) said:
In order to get a smooth winding (a good serviced zorki/fed does indeed 'feel' very close to a Leica) you should disassemble the winding gear and the parts that are found under the shutter button. Especially the spring brake under the winding knob should be cleaned and oiled to get a smooth winding. Currently there is no thread on this part yet, but since I have serviced quite a lot of FSU cams, I might put up some photos soon to make this info available.
Click to expand...


Dear Ron did you happen to describe the spring brake somewhere on this forum? I was trying to better understand the relation between spring and the brake ring. Do you have info on the correct relative position? I suspect my specimen went through a so not orthodox service :/
 
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