dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
Well, I have a new Zorki IIIC, and from the oily smell of it (reminds me of guns) it really is from the FSU, and it's not one of those Leicas dressed up to look like an FSU commiecam. 
Came with a Jupiter 8 with beautiful looking glass--and stiff stiff stiff focusing. Will have to fix that.
I have a question:
How does the film counter reset? I realized that the collar around the shutter release allows for the film to rewind, but how to get it to zero on the counter after that is beyond me.
Any ideas?
Comparing this to my Zorki 4K, the IIIC feels sturdier, has nice engravings (not just paint) and is A LOT quieter. Interesting.
doug
Came with a Jupiter 8 with beautiful looking glass--and stiff stiff stiff focusing. Will have to fix that.
I have a question:
How does the film counter reset? I realized that the collar around the shutter release allows for the film to rewind, but how to get it to zero on the counter after that is beyond me.
Any ideas?
Comparing this to my Zorki 4K, the IIIC feels sturdier, has nice engravings (not just paint) and is A LOT quieter. Interesting.
doug
kiev4a
Well-known
You have to set the film counter manually. The only difference between the 3C and the early Z4s is the Z3C doesn't have a self timer. The build on these cameras was much better than the 4Ks--engraved, too.
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
Oh, that's why that grooved ring is in the middle. Got it. Yeah, it has a nice feel to it.
Is there any way to adjust vertial RF alignment?
Is there any way to adjust vertial RF alignment?
kiev4a
Well-known
I frankly don't know. I've done it on Z1s but I've always had Oleg handle rangefiner problems on Z3s. The screw right above the lens mount, next to the little rf window, might provide access, to that adjustment, but that's only a guess.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
The Zorki-IIIC verticl rangefinder adjustment is on a concentric lens bezel inside of the top.
You have to remove the top first, the smaller rangefinder window (rectangular on the outside) is actually round just like the earlier Zorki's, on the inside. Just dissolve any shellac used to lock the two rings together with alcohol, and use a set of tweezer points to rotate the bezel. The lenses are actually a pair of rotating prisms. rotating the outer one moves the secondary rangefinder image in a circle. The idea is to get that image on a level line with the primary image. Then adjust the rangefinder so that the two images overlap at the proper distance.
-Paul
You have to remove the top first, the smaller rangefinder window (rectangular on the outside) is actually round just like the earlier Zorki's, on the inside. Just dissolve any shellac used to lock the two rings together with alcohol, and use a set of tweezer points to rotate the bezel. The lenses are actually a pair of rotating prisms. rotating the outer one moves the secondary rangefinder image in a circle. The idea is to get that image on a level line with the primary image. Then adjust the rangefinder so that the two images overlap at the proper distance.
-Paul