Zorki1 boby shell removal..

fotosniper

fotosniper

Fotosniper
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Just a quickie guys n gals..hope you can help..
Is it neccassary to remove the lens mount when removing the body shell from my Zorki1 (and thus maybe disturbing any shims beneath)?..
I have removed the 2 screws at each side of the lens mount and the 5 that hold the top assembly to the boby shell.
Pushed the rangefinder cam back to clear the lens mount.
The shell begins to separate but something is catching..me thinks..film pressure plate..yea?
Is there something else I should be doing?..
I just want to get at the large cogs and give them a clean and re-lube..My Zorki performs well apart from feeling mechanically dry..if you get me..yep?

Thanks Dudes!
 
fotosniper said:
Just a quickie guys n gals..hope you can help..
Is it neccassary to remove the lens mount when removing the body shell from my Zorki1 (and thus maybe disturbing any shims beneath)?..
I have removed the 2 screws at each side of the lens mount and the 5 that hold the top assembly to the boby shell.
Pushed the rangefinder cam back to clear the lens mount.
The shell begins to separate but something is catching..me thinks..film pressure plate..yea?
Is there something else I should be doing?..
I just want to get at the large cogs and give them a clean and re-lube..My Zorki performs well apart from feeling mechanically dry..if you get me..yep?

Thanks Dudes!
Click to expand...

Yes it needs to come off. the retainer plates for the lens mount catch on the "crate". The top one will only go back in one way. handle the paper shim with care.. If it was mine and "works well" I would leave it alone those things seem to run fine with very little lube. The biggest problem is bits of film leader etc. etc. getting into the gear train. Dave
 
Cheers Dave..

Yea I was thinking about the ole saying 'if it aint broken don't try to fix it'..
and as far as i can see..there ain't any dirt or debris lying around inside.
Maybe wait until it REALLY needs to be stripped.

Lee.
 
I'll second that. If you can possibly leave it alone, do so. The backing plates for the lens mount screws are a bear to get back in. I would clean it out as best you can through the bottom and only take it apart if you have a failure.

IMHO, of course...

Russ
 
fotosniper said:
Cheers Dave..

Yea I was thinking about the ole saying 'if it aint broken don't try to fix it'..
and as far as i can see..there ain't any dirt or debris lying around inside.
Maybe wait until it REALLY needs to be stripped.

Lee.
Click to expand...

If you ever have to take it apart look at. http://jay.fedka.com Dave
 
Thanks for the advice fellas...
I guess the same applies to my FED1..should I ever need to remove the body shell yep?

Have a great New Year!

Lee.
 
Lens mount off... for future reference... Thought I'd add that when I've taken off mounts with shims, and on cameras that were working well and I didn't want to "rearrange" the shims, I've gone so far as to make notes on a white piece of paper: "top" - "bottom" - "right" - "left". The shims were brittle & came out in pieces and I placed the pieces on the paper in their proper positions so they could go on just like they came off.

Jay's Survival Site is a must. Keep it near.

A thought... I wonder if the lens mount screws could be removed, the retainer plates removed... and then the mount itself undisturbed and taped to the body shell could keep the shims in place while removing the shutter crate/RF assembly? Maybe? I might try that.
 
fotosniper said:
Thanks for the advice fellas...
I guess the same applies to my FED1..should I ever need to remove the body shell yep?

Have a great New Year!

Lee.
Click to expand...
True for Zorki and FED. My method for replacing the retainers is as follows (assumes you're right-handed, reverse the orientation if not!). Have the body lying flat on its back.

Position the mount, use a guide (needle, small drill, fine screwdriver etc) to poke the shims into alignment. Pop the top, right (as you are looking at it) screw into its hole.

Insert the retainer and hold it roughly diagonally inside the mount so that the screw hole sits under the top right hand screw. Tighten the screw but only very lightly. Getting the screw to start is the fiddliest bit but I find it quite easy.

Swing the retainer free end up (popping the rangefinder cam in to allow it past).

Insert a guide into the top, left hole to lign up the screw holes in the retainer and body.

Tighten the top, right hand screw a little more to hold the retainer.

Insert the top, left hand screw & tighten lightly.

Repeat the method for the lower retainer.

Finally, tighten the screws in an X-pattern to avoid distorting the mount and don't tighten them excessively. Takes almost as long to read this as to do it.

I'll recommend Jay's site too - it's like the bible of such tinkerings!
 
fotosniper said:
Thanks for the advice fellas...
I guess the same applies to my FED1..should I ever need to remove the body shell yep?

Have a great New Year!

Lee.
Click to expand...

That is correct. Dave
 
Dave

If I only want to drop the outer shell sufficient to brush in Zippo fluid to flush out gum, and add a PTFE liquid droplet, so do I need to remove all the screws and nuts, wont relaxing the tension of all of them (to avoid distorsion) and removing the interfering ones allow the outer cover to drop a little to allow some access be sufficient? Or does the outer shell movement depend on all the nuts being removed?

I dont want to strip more than necessary, it normally takes me ages to re-assemble, I dont want to register a mount with new shims.

Alternatively will removing the top cap allow sufficient access?

I only have a slow speed shading (or 100% capping problem) it is temperature dependent, every thing else is perfect.

Noel
 
Xmas said:
Dave

If I only want to drop the outer shell sufficient to brush in Zippo fluid to flush out gum, and add a PTFE liquid droplet, so do I need to remove all the screws and nuts, wont relaxing the tension of all of them (to avoid distorsion) and removing the interfering ones allow the outer cover to drop a little to allow some access be sufficient? Or does the outer shell movement depend on all the nuts being removed?

I dont want to strip more than necessary, it normally takes me ages to re-assemble, I dont want to register a mount with new shims.

Alternatively will removing the top cap allow sufficient access?

I only have a slow speed shading (or 100% capping problem) it is temperature dependent, every thing else is perfect.

Noel
Click to expand...
You'll have to remove the lens mount, shims (note EXACTLY how they are fitted), the four body screws and the screws from around the rim of the top plate (5 or 6 of them, depending) to get the crate out of the body, but it's a very easy job. Lie the body on its back and push the rangefinder cam in as you remove it. The rangefinder cam has to pop into the body to allow it past the top. Keeping the body on its back stops the pressure plate & springs falling out.

Slackening any amount of screws will not give you access to anything, I'm afraid.
 
Thanks for the response - I'll need to allocate lots of time for this then, and try Cvblz24 sticky tape work around.

Noel
 
Xmas said:
Thanks for the response - I'll need to allocate lots of time for this then, and try Cvblz24 sticky tape work around.

Noel
Click to expand...
It'll take you 5 minutes to remove the crate from the shell...if you work slowly! Probably 10 minutes to put it back together, since the mount retainers are slightly fiddly and the pressure plate/springs may need positioning carefully. As for the time in between, that'll depend a lot on what you find! Have fun :D
 
CVBLZ4 said:
Lens mount off...

A thought... I wonder if the lens mount screws could be removed, the retainer plates removed... and then the mount itself undisturbed and taped to the body shell could keep the shims in place while removing the shutter crate/RF assembly? Maybe? I might try that.
Click to expand...


Taping the lens mount on the body after removing the screws is a good idea. :) The RF sensor tip must be pushed in (gently!!!) to keep it from catching on the mount. In its usual position, part of the tip is almost always hanging under the threaded mount. In any case the tip should be pushed in first before pulling out the crate from the body.

When putting the camera back, I would say that keeping the retaining bars at their right positions under the lens mount (where the screws attach) is one of the most difficult things to do. Especially when the mount has to be removed and replaced alternately when calibrating or correcting its position for the necessary working distance.

The retaining bars can be stuck in their positions by putting some rubber cement glue. This glue is strong enough to hold the bars in place during the removal and installment procedures. It's also weak enough to be unstuck when further camera disassembly is necessary.

In one repair shop, the in-house repair experts couldn't put a poor Leica II back. They had installed the lens mount on the body shell prior to inserting the shutter crate. No amount of explaination could convince the repairist that what he did was wrong :p

Jay
 
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