Tri-x at 400 with HC-110 (again)

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javimm

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After doing a search here (tons of different opinions), and after my first roll of Tri-X at 400 developed in HC-110, I'm going to try a different dilution. For a complete description of what I did, here's the link:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=607657

I've been suggsted to agitate less, to get a bit less contrast. Also I have some more questions.

For Tri-x at 400, I want to try dil H. Can I use 7.7 ml per 485 ml of my tank to develop 2 rolls at once?. In the covington page, it says 6 ml minimun per 35mm film, so it should be 12 ml for two rolls, but the corresponding 7.5ml doesn't have an asterisk, meaning it's not necessary to use more developer. What I'm not understanding?

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

What time is a good starting point?. 12 minutes?. Everybody says that the times for dil H are double of those of Dil B. I used 6.5 min, so if I want to develop a bit less time, say 6 min in B, I should use 12 min in H as a starting point. Right?
Which agitation scheme?. For what I've been told in the other thread, 10 sec (5 inversions) per minute is too much. So what is the suggestion here?. I'd like to know if the agitation scheme is the same if I use dil. B.

It's not that my negs have too much contrast, but I think they're more contrasty than they should be, just a bit, so I want to make little adjustments.

Thanks,
Javier.
 
javimm, I've used the dil. H formula almost exactly as you have described. I use 7.8 ml to make 500ml of solution. I have developed two rolls many times with no problems. I read Convington a couple years ago and couldn't make heads or tails of there times and other things they said, but I started with their times and I have settled on 13 minutes for Tri-X @ 400 (68 degrees F, 30 second agitation then three inversions twice during the 13 minutes). I do like my negatives a little darker than others. Just for your information if 12 minutes comes out the way you like it: I do 11 minutes for Tri-X @ 250. Everything else the same.
 
I've used 4.7 ml of syrup in 300ml total for a Paterson tank with no ill effects. In fact it's my favourite for HP5. I'm also quite pleased with my first dilution h Delta 100 rolls. I've just done a roll of Tri-x at 11 mins in dil. h, and it's a little overcooked at Ei200, I'd say 12-13 for EI 400 would be about right. I always agitate 10s per minute (4 turns is all I can manage in 10s).
 
javimm said:
For what I've been told in the other thread, 10 sec (5 inversions) per minute is too much.
Click to expand...

Five inversions in 10 seconds! Wow, it's not a Shaker Maker. For me 10 seconds agitation is two slow inversions with a twist of the wrist, Ansel Adams style, to ensure even development.
 
Yes, that agitation is way too much. 2 or 3 inversions every 3 minutes works for me. (Actually I use Patterson plastic tanks/reels, so I use 10sec. rotations instead.)
 
I'm just throwing this out there for the sake of it: You might want to do a few more rolls before making any changes to your processing. That will give you a better idea of what changes to make.

Also, you might want to scan or print your negatives before making any assumptions about contrast or dev times.
 
Thanks for all your replies. I'll try 12.5 min with less agitation. Maybe the suggested 2 inversions 3 times during the whole development time. I'll have to check the temp though, as in this extreme hot summer I'm quite sure I won't be able to mantain it at 20ºC. If the temp. rises to 21-22ºC during development, I'll cut the time a bit or better, use a tray with cooler water and put the tank there if the temp is rising. That'll give more constant results that cutting the time at will.


To 40oz. I totally agree with what you say, but I can't print by now by myself :( . I have to bring my negs to a lab, and get them scanned to test contrast. What I want to do is use a correct time and agitation to start with, get some negs from every roll scanned, and decide from there. I forgot to say that the first roll was almost exposed at harsh contrast conditions too.

What I've done says me I over agitated and need to do it less. I over agitated because I used the Ilford agitation scheme for HP5+ (and their other films), but their times are shorter. For instance, they say 5 min for HP5+ using HC-110 dil B.

Thanks again.
 
In my experience, not agitating enough can cause problems with stripes of lighter tones adjacent to dark shadow areas.

Kodak agitation recomendation:
"Small-Tank Processing (8- or 16-ounce tank)
With small single- or double-reel tanks, drop the loaded film reel into the developer and attach the top to the tank. Firmly tap the tank on the top of the work surface to dislodge any air bubbles. Provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 inversion cycles in 5 seconds; i.e., extend your arm and vigorously twist your wrist 180 degrees.

Then repeat this agitation procedure at 30-second intervals for the rest of the development time."

Taken from http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...&lc=en#small-tankprocessing(8-or16-ouncetank)

I think their agitation scheme is a bit robust, but it works. I do make sure to tap the tank on the table two or three times after each agitation to dispel bubbles.

As for adjusting dev time for temps, I've found page five of this doc from Ilford to be useful and accurate, even when using non-Ilford films and chemicals. The chart is identical in the fact sheets for all their films, so I theorize it addresses how temps influence generic chemical reactions, or at least the chemical reactions relevant to developing film. I use it because my cold tap temps can get close to 80F in summer here, while being quite a bit lower than 68F in winter. I don't bother using cooler dev temps, but it makes it nice and easy when dealing with "cold" water that is warmer than 68F.
 
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