Bosk
There are many variations on the soft releases and some are easier to use than others. Leica used to make a tall, complex version to be used when you had meters or finders on the camera. They are now a bit rare and they also can cause unnecessary strain on the threads for the release.
The biggest problem I found with the commercially available Softies was that they either had too small diameter and/or were concave. This forced you to use the tip of your finger to release and excert a 'downward" pressure on the camera and if you were doing slow speed exposure, you could push the camera during exposure.
When I started to design my own version, 10 years ago, I knew i wanted a larger diameter and a dome shaped top. There was a lot of filing involved with the first ones to get the shape of the top correct! For the sake of esthetics i also wanted the diameter to match the "dish" on my M's as well as giving it a knurled edge.
Once the primary design was done and the correct alloy was decided upon, it was just a matter of getting my friend to crank up the "turning center and running them.
The alloy is a critical part of the product. If you use a too soft an alloy, it can snap and get stuck in the cable release thread (common with " pressed" or cast Softies, usually made in China - cheap material and once you have the die, cheap to produce).
If on the other hand you go to something like stainless steel, the thread gets very sharp and can cut the softer, chromed brass in the M-release thread. This can cause the thread to "lock" and if you try to unscrew it with too much force - the whole release shaft can come out!
A side benefit of using alloy was also that I can have it engraved and anodized in a variety of colors. Some of the users (me inluded) use the Softie to indicate what film is in the camera. My choice is usually : green for Tri X, red for 100 ASA and blue for special film (tech pan, color etc).
There are two ways of using the Softie:
For slow speeds, you hook your finger over it so that the second joint applies the pressure. This is very much like firing a target rifle, you can feel the 'trigger' point of the release.
I find that I generally gain a stop this way. I have a steady trigger finder and can usually pull a sharp shot at 1/15 with a 50mm. With the Softie I can get away with 1/8's sec and occasionally even a 1/4 (though that is more of "hope over experince" and good luck!).
It takes a while to train yourself in using it, but once you got it, you be surprised at the improvement in hand held shots.
The other way of using the Softie is when you are shooting "fast and furious". You dont have to have the finger right on the release . You can release the shutter by "tapping" the Softie anywhere.
Quite a few of our customers are photo journalists and they like this feature. One, friend and Magnum shooter, described it as "you just wave your finger in the general vincinity of the release and it goes click".
yes. it does go click too, if you put it in your back with the shutter cocked - or if you work with 2-3 cameras at the same time. Elbows and arms tend to release the dangling cameras! I find it a mall price to pay for the benefit though. Of course, I always keep the cameras in my bag uncocked ( if you believe that - I have a cheap bridge to sell).
One day I will print up a series of 11x14's - totally black or with odd, out of focus images and call them "Pictures Of The Inside Of My Camera Bag!"
The Mini Softie was created for cameras that doesn't allow enough clearance between the shutter speed dial and the release, but it functions exactly the same, though I am partial to the "Classic" Softie and every M I have has one in place.
It works well on the M8 and if you want to try the M8 with a Visoflex III you need it as the arm on the Viso III and the release on the M8 dont align exactly.
