Zorki 4K shutter sticking

[PMR]

I recently bought a Zorki 4K on e-bay. At first I noticed that it was difficult to re-engage the film drive once it had been disengaged to rewind a film. Moving the film drive sprockets by hand until the drive clicked in seemed to solve that one. Now I have noticed that when using shutter speeds of 1/30 or slower, the second shutter blind sticks part way across and stays there leaving the film exposed until you start to wind on again. At shutter speeds of 1/60 or faster this does not occur.
Since I only paid £20 and I have had a service quoted at £40 I want to have a go myself. I have seen the post by Wolver3012 but wonder about re-timing the shutter once I disturb things.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
Peter R

 

[xayraa33]

welcome to the forum.
I had a similar problem on my 4K and it was solved by a slight adjustment to the brake spring at the bottom of the camera,it is located under the cover with the two screws.

 

[wolves3012]

If you follow the steps on the sticky you won't have to re-time anything since you won't be dismantling the curtain mechanisms or re-tensioning the blinds. From the symptoms you describe (quite common problems) you should find that re-lubing, as per the sticky, will get things going again. Pay particular attention to lubing the speed-selector parts, the tension-roller bearings and the curtain drum pivots since they are the most likely culprit for a sticking second curtain. Difficulty re-engaging the sprockets is caused by hardened grease in the release machanism, this is also covered in the sticky.

It's a fiddly job doing all that stuff but it doesn't require any special tools or skills. If you're comfortable with a small screwdriver set and are reasonably competent it's not difficult.

Good luck - let us know how you get on. If you're stuck on something or unsure, just stop and ask us...someone will know the answer, whether it's me or not!

P.S. welcome to RFF

 

[wolves3012]

Just a quick thought - it's possible that debris in the path of the curtain might cause this. It's not all that likely that the first curtain would be ok and not the second, however, but it's worth a try to clear it before you do anything else.

Lock the shutter open on "B" (press the button then turn it to lock, or use a locking cable release) and hold the camera upside down with the lens removed. Now blow into the gap where the curtains travel. Use a blower bulb rather than an air-can. Tip out any debris that falls and see if that clears things.

 

[sooner]

I know there are devoted fans here of the Russian cameras, but I've used two Zorkis now and both had problems. I just took the plunge and bought a new Bessa R from Cameraquest, and I have to say it's a very nice camera. After wasting time and shots with the Zorkis, I say you can't afford NOT to buy a Bessa. Keep in mind the supply of new ones is running out, if you can swing it. If not, good luck with your repairs.

 

[wolves3012]

sooner,

I appreciate the point you make but it's hardly a fair comparison. The newest Zorki (and probably worst-made) is something like 30 years old. They were cheap when new, so cheap that it's unlikely many of them have been serviced. The Zorki is an old, simple, mechanical camera. The Bessa is modern and full of electronics, a different beast with a different appeal. I wonder what Bessa would run unserviced for 30 years.

There is also a gulf in price. £20 has bought him a camera which may well be resurrected. If not, or if he ruins it in attempting service, he won't have lost a great deal or a rare camera. Plus he'll still have a nice Jupiter 8 to use on that Bessa that he "can't afford NOT to buy".

 

[gb hill]

I had the same type problem with mty FED 2 at 60th of sec and a quick tensioning of the two screws at the bottom fixed the problem. A small screwdriver(jewelers type) & a set of needle nose pliers is all that you need. Try and not let the screwdriver slip as you tighten up the tension. The screw is under pressure of the springs.

 

[PMR]

Thanks for the welcome and the advice so far.
I will have a go now.
BTW I also have a Pentax SP1000 ( yes, I know its a SLR) that I bought second-hand before my son was born and he is now 26. This worked OK for about 25 years before needing a a service. Only problem is the meter which was designed to take a mercury battery.

Peter

 

[Kim Coxon]

The Pentax's use a bridged meter circuit. As a result silver cells work just as well as the mercury ones and there is no difference in the meter reading, 😉

Kim

Thanks for the welcome and the advice so far.
I will have a go now.
BTW I also have a Pentax SP1000 ( yes, I know its a SLR) that I bought second-hand before my son was born and he is now 26. This worked OK for about 25 years before needing a a service. Only problem is the meter which was designed to take a mercury battery.

Peter

 

[wolves3012]

The Pentax's use a bridged meter circuit. As a result silver cells work just as well as the mercury ones and there is no difference in the meter reading, 😉

Kim

I used to have a Spotmatic and noticed the bridge circuit. I also found the battery life to be ridiculously long. I changed it after a few years, regardless but it wasn't flat, even after an accidental spell of being on for 2 weeks.

 

[TVphotog]

I know there are devoted fans here of the Russian cameras, but I've used two Zorkis now and both had problems. I just took the plunge and bought a new Bessa R from Cameraquest, and I have to say it's a very nice camera. After wasting time and shots with the Zorkis, I say you can't afford NOT to buy a Bessa. Keep in mind the supply of new ones is running out, if you can swing it. If not, good luck with your repairs.

If you are back in Norman and still have the cameras, I can most likely get them up and running again. Just send me a PM and we can figure it all out. I am working in the Norman office three days a week now with Mr. Gan Matthews. Let me know.

Ken