Picked up a Leitz Focomat

[BigSteveG]

1C today. Pretty cheap. It need re-wiring but I'm pretty confident I can get that done also cheaply as well. Question: It has some kind of meter called a "magnification indicator" by the manual. What is the purpose of this device? I can see how it works and have the hook up ribbon/eyes to the enlarger. I just don't understand what it's for. Any ideas?

 

[Simon Larbalestier]

I'd need to look at mine back in the UK to be sure - but from memory if you are talking about the illuminated strip with numbers on that runs parallel to the enlarger column on the left hand side a you face the enlarger, i think it was to calculate the required exposure increase if you changed print sizes - as the bar inside the illuminated strip gives a corresponding number. I think if memory serves me correct there was an exposure calculation chart in the manual that these numbers correspond to? i may be totally wrong here as it's a feature i ignored on both my Focomats 1 and 2c (as well as the autofocus!)

The white engraved numbers that are on a black metal "semi disc" on the right side of the enlarger head (as you face it) are for recalibrating the Auto Focus feature but also needed if you use a thicker enlarger easel or you want to print much larger than it was originally calibrated for - again instructions for this are in the manual.

I'm Tom can answer these questions better than me once he sees your post!

Anyway it's a great enlarger when correctly set up. Enjoy.

 

[Ronald M]

Both scales right and left show magnification and you can adjust the exposure based on the reading. 3 1/2, 5, 8, and 11 all differ by 1 stop each step.

Calibration of the auto focus with a 1 in thick easel is done in two steps. Rotate the lens focus ring and lock in place with the sloted tab that slide around the perimeter. Use 10x or full up for this step.

Lower to 3 1/2 x and use the plated screw near the non illuminated disc that rides on the focus cam to make it focus at the small size. Lock into place. It is now calibrated for that lens only and will auto focus from 3.5 to 10 x

The lower position on the column is for no easel and putting the paper directly on the baseboard. To use a larger 12x16 easel which is slightly thicker, there is a spacer ring to raise the column clamp 1/4 in or so.

Use Hopp`s gun oil on the 6 oil points in the pallelogram arms.

If it is black round head model, you must have a short neck enlarging bulb. Good luck finding any. A 60 watt snow white household is the best substitute. Remove the printing with acetone. If you have a greg oblong, regular PH111 are just right. Center the filament side to side and raise /lower to achieve even illumination using the three screws on the top. Ph111 require full up.

 

[Tom A]

Look at the post holding the arm for the head. You will find two holes and a steel pin - although the latter can easily be lost and replaced by a nail! The upper hole is for when you use a 1" base easel and the lower for when you print on the base board.
Setting the auto focus is easy and once it is done (do your final adjustments from prints rather than by magnifier (unless you have blue filter on the magnifier - as most photographic paper is more sensitive to blue light than the mixed white light).
The magnification indicator is rather useless, at least I have never found a practical use for it! I usually remove them and I always worry about spill light from the indicator fogging paper.
When you rewire it - dont run the power supply through the post as one day you will find that the insulation has cracked and that the cord has happily grounded itself on the upright. Just run it of the top of the lamp-housing and if you want to keep the power cord out of the way - just stick a couple of wooden dowel pint in the now useless outlet at the top of the post as a guiding fork.
A good going over with oil in the "oil" holes and run it up/down to smoothen it out and clean out the bellows (they tend to collect a bit of dust in the folds). You can take out the condensor by pressing and twistin the lock on top of it. This makes it easy to clean.
If your Ic is an earlier one, you might want to add a couple of strips of tape along the edge of the negative carrier as prior to having the condensor "anti-Newton ring" treated, you can get these ringshaped marks on the paper. I find that this happens mostly with "green" film (film that has some residual moisture left in it.
The beauty of the Focomat's is that once you spent an hour or so doing all this stuff, you probably wont have to attend to anything more streneous than occasional dusting off the condensor or the back of the enlarging lens for the next decade or two.
Enjoy it and you might be surprised what you find in the deep shadows of your negatives. Somehow the Ic and IIc's seem to be able to pull more out than most other enlargers.

 

[BigSteveG]

Thanks guys. I reaaly appreciate the input. I am having a bit of trouble unscrewing the condensor lock, but I can see that it does un-screw. Also,
(1) is a 1 lens condensor proper? I'm asking because I've seen other enlargers with multiple lenses.
(2) Is it advisable to swap out the lamp housing with one that takes full size bulbs?

 

[BigSteveG]

Found this lamp at B&H...not sure if it's short neck or long....but it's 150w which, according to the manual, is the assigned wattage for this enlarger. My logic is such: if the lamp is of the long neck variety, should I cut back on wattage (say 100/125) to compensate for the shortened length to the neg? Or am I just being silly?

General Brand PH212 Replacement Enlarger Lamp - 150 watts/120 volts

 

[Simon Larbalestier]

Hi Steve. yes one condenser is correct and i think (from memory) you push the top of the condenser down slightly (as it's on a spring) then turn clockwise 1/2 or 1/3rd of a turn and there is a brass retaining ring which need to be removed first held by three locating brass lugs and then the condenser should lift out or will need another slight twist as there are another three locating brass lugs that it slots into.

Again Tom or Ronald can probably supply a more accurate description as my enlargers are in the UK and i'm here in Bangkok trying to remember!

I have 150 watt bulbs in both mine but i cannot say the brand or size from memory.

 

[Tom A]

Just push down and as Simin says, turn it until it clicks and lift off the retaining ring and the spring underneath. Flip the head up and push on the condensor from the bottom - it should slide out, but if the enlarger has been sitting for a while, it might be stiff. Check that there is no anti-Newton ring/glass at the bottom. This is a push fit and will come off. Treat it carefully as they are damned difficult to find and expensive to boot!
The Ic condensor is a solid glass element, though I think it is in two parts inside its ring - however it comes out as a single unit.
The 150 watt bulb is fine - but it does get hot and sometimes your printing times can get uncomfortably short. I keep 75/100/150 watt bulbs in stock and change them according to the size of print or negative density.
The long/short neck variation could be a european problem. All the bulbs I have works both on old and new Ic's. The contraption at the top does allow you to "pull" the bulb up sufficiently to clear the condensor. Just put it in the top position and work your way "down" until there is no "hot spot" on the easel.
When you reassemble the condensor unit (putting it back with the spring and retaining ring) I recommend you give the outside of the brass tube that holds the glass a light coating of teflon grease and do a swipe with the same stuff in the "throat" that holds the thing in the enlarger. The condensor actually presses down on the negative and the spring compensates for this and allows the glass to move up/down slightly.
Which lens did you get with the Ic? If it came with a Focotar 50 no problem, but if you are using a non Leica lens you might need a spacer ring for it.

 

[BigSteveG]

Thanks Tom. I realized the filter drawer had to be removed in order to un-screw the condensor housing. It came out and cleaned up just fine. The greasing of the tube and it's adjacent area is a good idea. The Newton glass did come w/ the enlarger. It removes easily. The lens is a Schneider 50mm Componon. The Schneider seems to fit fine. I've placed a neg in the thing and it does press down on it. It's quite small and clean. A few dust specks. The aperture is almost completely round. It looks and feels very precise. I'll probably pick up a Focotar at some point....for the sake of orginality. What's a good price for a minty one?

 

[Tom A]

Focotars are variable as to prices. The Focotar-2 still will set you back a couple of 100 an thats the one to go for. The older focotars are not bad, but they have atendency to start fogging and have separation at the edges. The Componar is a good lens and will most likely serve you well for a long time (or until you find the Focotar-2!)
Yours most be a later version with the filter drawer, a 1c Color - these are sought after so you are lucky to get one.
I use the Ilford Multigrade filters and trim them to fit the drawer. A word of advice - when you trim them, remember to trim them so that the filter number is left on tthe part you will use! I am speaking from experience here. In a fit of inattentiveness I managed to trim a couple so that I found strips with nice numbers on them and numberless fitted to the drawer! Black markers saved the day!
With the 1c Color, you should not have any problem with the lamps either.

 

[BigSteveG]

Yes, it is a 1C Color. Even has the word color right on the lens adjustment lever. I had planned on trimming my Ilford filters to fit the drawer. Thanks for the reminder!! I understnd the Saunder Heavy Duty easels have 1 inch thick bases specifically to use with A/F enlargers. Something to look into since mine didn't come with one. One seller online has them for $300 (well used!) plus extra for the mouting harware!!