Konica C35

Harlee

Harlee

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Today I found some pics previously taken on my C35, and I was amazed at how sharp and crisp they were. So, I decided to break it out and shoot a few shots with it, if nothing more than to keep it loose. I placed a battery in it and it sprang to life; needle moved, focused easily, viewfinder clear, shutter clicked, BUT - before loading film, I opened the back, pointed it toward a light source, tripped the shutter, NOTHING! No light coming through the shutter/aperature. Clicked it several time but nothing. Well, perhaps it needs some help. I took a toothpick and very gently tried to open the shutter, but it wouldn't budge. I don't see any rust, grease, etc. Anyone out there have any suggestions? I may remove the bottom plate to see if a spring dropped off, or something is frozen, perhaps placing a drop of lighter fluid where it'll do the most good. I'd really like to get theis little cutie working again, as they're getting rather scarce. :bang:
 
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Most likely what has happened is that your shutter has frozen in place. This is not uncommon on old leaf-shutter cameras. Prying won't help, and I'd recommend against it.

The two ways to go here depend upon your willingness to try a DIY cure that may not work. If you're risk-averse in this area, a CLA (Clean, Lube, Adjust) at the local camera repair place (or by mail if you have no local repairman) will do the job.

The usual method is to use Ronsonol or Zippo liquid lighter fluid, which you can buy cheaply at Walgreens. Q-tips also - the name brand, not cheap ones.

In a well-ventilated place (no open flame either please), you dip a q-tip in zippo fluid and start rubbing it VERY gently on the shutter leaves - not pressing hard enough to push them in - you'll know what I mean when you do it.

The shutter should spring to life in a second or two - it will surprise you by snapping open. You then need to exercise the shutter repeatedly, then gently burnish the shutter leaves with a clean q-tip to get the lighter fluid off of them. It will take awhile, be patient.

Even after all is done - chances are it may gum up again. I've had several cameras require a second and even a third operation like this. Eventually they stop acting up and that should do it for good.

I have been doing it a long time - my batting average is no better than 66% or so. But if you feel like trying it yourself, that's generally the method.

There is another way involving lighter fluid called 'flood cleaning', which I gather involves a good soaking, but it will get fluid well into the mechanism and also onto the aperture leaves behind the shutter and the rear element, and such things can be hard to get clean again.

Hope this helps. Google for 'lighter fluid stuck shutter' for more info.
 
Thanks a bunch. I had that in mind but thought I'd post something first to see if there's something else to check. I'll use the Q-Tip method rather than flooding the shutter. I'll post my results. Thanks again!
 
These shutters require a battery to operate. You said a new battery and the meter needle 'floated' so a low battery probably isn't the problem. But you might check.
 
They are terrific cameras. I've had two ... the first the C35V (viewfinder/scale focusing), and the C35 rf. The latter went to Gene and is now on its way to Mexico. I would have bought it back form Gene, but it wasn't time yet. The lens is, IMO, better than that of the XA, but of course it is "program mode" exposure only and not as pocketable as the XA. But I digress...

Since the Zippo fluid/Q-Tip technique has been brought up, I guess I'd like to know if anyone has an alternative to Q-Tips? I am skittish about the tiny cotton threads that can be left behind. A good vacuuming with a micro vacuum might suffice, but I'd feel better with truly lintless swabs.
 
I dont know about post #5 - I have a konica c35 automatic rangefinder that fires the shutter when there is no battery in it - it does need to have the black wire resoldered to the battery compartment to get it fully functional though
 
Tried the lighter fluid and Q-Tip, but no results. If I remember correctly, I believe the shutter will fire without a battery but the internal meter won't work, but I may be wrong. Now I'm curious about the black wire connected to the Battery termainal. Is that for metering or shutter function?

How do I get in touch with Greyhoundman? This one may be worth getting fixed! My first C35 was purchased when I lived in Japan "70-'73 and it served me faithfully for many years. Don't know why I ditched it - probably got talked into the "know it all, do it all" cameras then appearing on the market.
 
who knows if it fires correctly (got it cheap from a charity shop) apparently it fires at 1/30th without batteries, and seeing as it hasn't had a film thru it yet i have no idea, once it has been resurected we will see, and i will post some pics. it is really nice and small, rangefinder patch is okayish so heres hoping the wire repair will get it up and running, it has just come off on the battery compartment so I will resolder that and check if the meter works if not I will replace the wire, its a bit dodgy at the moment from corrosion from the mercury cell.
 
I think with no or dead battery it defaults to 1/60 or 1/40. Can't remember the aperture it chooses ... maybe wide open.
 
I use mine on vacations, too, Chris. I just got back from Mexico and have developed two rolls:

2223455139_336ee2acf4.jpg
 
Konica always made great glass, and like Pentax and Yashica were overshadowed by Canon and Nikon. Personally, I think the only thing "better" about Canon and Nikon and Leica (to an extent) over Konica, Pentax, and Yashica is their marketing and advertising departments. They got it into photographer's minds - and more importantly "wanna be pro" minds, created a mythology, that theres are theres alone was the "pro-level" stuff one must have or aspire to and everything else was somehow "second teir".

The C35 might be the only 35 RF I might pick up because they're inexpensive. The Konica Auto S3 glass is amazing at all aps - wide open, stopped down. It might be the best 35mm lens I own. It is especially apparent at wide apertures. Shoot that thing 1.8 - wide open, no worries.
 
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The Greyhoundman no longer repairs cameras, but I was in contact with him yesterday to repair my C35 with a similar problem: either the shutter would not fire or it was sluggish and would not close fully. I removed the leather and removed the top (to exposre the 4 secrew that hold the lens plate to the camera body), removed the 4 screws, used Rosonol lighter fluid to degrease the shutter (I squirited it into the slots on the side of the shutter, used a hair dryer on low to help dry the Rosonol, and whipped it gently from the aperture blades, and tested the operation). I then replaced the lens housing (don't forget the silver rod that adjusts the rangefinder and will usuall drop out when removing the lens), and reassembled the camera and it works fine.

I'm running a test roll today.

Your problem might not be just a sticky shutter however.

As with any repair instructions, use this method at your own risk.

Regarding the term CLA...."Clean, Lube, and Adjust:" Most of the problems I have discovered regarding camera problems are due to too much oil. I'd rather think of the CLA as a Clean and Adjust only!
 
I also contacted Greyhoundman via email and he informed me that he's no longer working on cameras - don't know if that's temporary or not. Thanks for the blow by blow description for getting at the shutter mechanism. I'll be anxious to see what results you get with your C35 now. If it works out for you I may try the same approach. Greyhoundman did state that he didn't think from my description that my shutter blades were sticking, but that it's something mechanical which is failing to trip the shutter blades. At this point guess I have nothing to lose, since I picked up this C35 8-10 years ago for $10 at a local pawn shop. But it's in really great condition, and give me surperb pictures. Some B&W pics I took in Siberia several years back came out really great, in sepiatone of all things. Don't know why, but they did.

Did you remove just the front leather, and the top?
 
NickTrop said:
The C35 might be the only 35 RF I might pick up because they're inexpensive. The Konica Auto S3 glass is amazing at all aps - wide open, stopped down. It might be the best 35mm lens I own. It is especially apparent at wide apertures. Shoot that thing 1.8 - wide open, no worries.
Click to expand...

I just bought and changed the light seals on a C35. I really like the camera except for one thing: the viewfinder magnification is at 0,46x. The not too bigger Oly RC is 0,60x, and the Oly XA is 0,55x. Oly SP have 0,70x, Yashica GX 0,62x. The Agfa 1535 is at 0,78x (WOW). I was so disappointed that the viewfinder magnification is smaller than on my Oly XA that I had to found all the other numbers:)

Does anybody knows how the c35 viewfinder compares to the Auto c35 and the Minolta 7sII?

However, i don't think, the magnification is everything. C35's viewfinder has much space around the frame, which will maybe help me framing (well, I'll see, the first film is still inside:)
 
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